bshriver
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Posts posted by bshriver
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Thanks! Will try that tomorrow!
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Does anyone know where to get replacement impellers for older Tunze Streams - 6100.10.
I think the latest part number for the impeller is tunze 6100.700 but I can't find them anywhere. I have 5 of these still working that I don't want to have to replace because them impellers are work.
Thanks.
Brett
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I do the same - I pour it on landscaping rocks to help keep the weeds out.
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Had a new brand new picasso clown get in mine two days ago - turned the tank lights out and put a light (iPhone light) on the glass against the overflow with a net already in position. It swam to the light and we were able to lift the net up under it.
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I use hot glue instead of the zip ties
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I got exposed to palytoxin by washing a frag rack with some on it under hot water. Some steam must have gotten some it in. I noticed a slight irritation in my throat. Stopped immediately (threw the rack out) - did what I could to rinse my mouth, etc... A few hours later I had labored breathing, I got chills, low oxygen levels in the blood, etc... I was put on oxygen and it cleared up. The exposure must have been minor sense I couldn't have inhaled that much vapor and it was only for a few seconds - but it still had a bad affect.
If you were exposed you would know by now
I agree with the other comments in the thread about cuts and other infections though - especially those darn tube worms!!!! -
+1 on the frag from the raffle. It settled right in and looks great. Thanks for donating!
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I use IO or RC and have recently tried the tropic marine bio pro (or something like that).
I did not notice the advantage of the pro but I did not use it long enough to tell nor were my water changes frequent enough to see any benefit so I will reserve judgement on whether their Bio grade salt is worth the extra money.
That being said, regardless if what salt I use, I keep magnesium chloride,(or sulfate) calcium chloride and soda ash on hand to adjust the ca mag and alk levels of every new salt batch to where I like them before I use it. I find this method to be the best. It takes a small amount of extra effort but it is worth it to have full control over those levels. I use the online reef calculator to determine how much of each supplement to add after I test the new mix.
Tons of TOM winners use instant ocean and reef crystals so that is my norm too.
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Thanks! The next task is to move the emperor angle into the 210 from the 110. So far he has been a model citizen. I just need to make sure the 210 can handle the bio-load.
I am thinking of turning an old calcium reactor into a recirculating bio-pellet reactor that allows you to control the flow through the unit while keeping the pellets tumbling. LMK if anyone has any experience doing this!
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A fellow reefer took some awesome shots
These were all shot with a Nikon D7000 and a Tamron 90mm Macro Lens. Coral shots are on-tripod with a remote shutter, and the Fish shots are in-hand. More specific details about each shot (aperture, shutter, ISO) are available on Flickr under actions > view Exif Info if you are interested.
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Two more reds.
Red dragon
Red star cyphastrea
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Red Robin stag for red
Carl's candlelight for yellow.
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A beauty of a beauty. I have had one for 6 years and it has left all corals alone.
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These look like the right parts and the specs match. I will order them and see. There is no part number on the outlet.
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Does anyone know where to buy replacement outlets for the DC8? I found the triacs but I forgot that when the last one went bad the outlet overheated.
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I have had a flame angel for years without issue. I saw him peck at an SPS once but that has been it. He has always been around zoos, SPS and Lps.
I have also kept a coral beauty, an emperor, and a grey poma angel and none of them have bothered any zoas SPS or Lps. I suspect that what you feed has some impact one it but I have no proof. I feed a home made frozen mash once a day and black worms sometimes at night when I have them. My tanks have a lot of sponge growth too. My frozen food contains raw table shrimp, mysis, cyclopeeze, usually a white ocean fish, scallops, fish eggs, lots of nori from the Asian market, selcon, lemon juice, garlic, and whatever else I want to experiment with at the time.
There is a thread on reef central somewhere that has a spreadsheet containing a poll of reef central members that lists all of the angels they have kept and how they did with corals.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.462593,-76.952332
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The offer is for anyone who will pick them up and drop them off.
I have a set. I don't remember where I bought it. But i have bits for most bulkheads. I will look when I get home.
I have used my hammer drill with me but I turn the hammer off
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I have a set of drill bits you can borrow. I am in Rockville on workdays. A bit north of there all other times.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.462492,-76.952270
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I just bought two 200 gallon boxes at aquarium one.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.462389,-76.952459
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All great advice above. To answer the original question, I believe leather corals are one of the worst at releasing toxins. I frag mine in the tank because I can't get it out. It releases a cloud of toxins when it is cut Run carbon and skim heavy but taking it out is a far better option.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.462544,-76.952310
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Smartly, the fish avoid the beam. Of course, you need to be careful. That's my biggest concern, really, with this device. While not lethal to you, it can blind you in an instant. In fact, it's reflection can blind you (or somebody near you) in an instant. I keep it and the batteries separated well away from one another, and clear the area when I've used it. I also make sure that I'm very aware of any reflection and where it's headed.
I've cooked palys that are up to a 1/2" across at the oral disk. It's really just that - it cooks them, right there in the water - but you have to guide the focused beam slowly across the target. Because of the toxicity, this approach is only good if you're taking out a handful at a time. Any more than that and I'd prefer another alternative that keeps the waste products out of the tank.
The laser is a line-of-sight device. If you can't get a straight line to the pest, you aren't going to be able to get to it with a laser. So if something is behind a rock, you'll have to turn the rock or find some other way to remove it. With some pests, there will always be one behind a rock, if you know what I mean.
It's a cool "toy" in many ways (I use the term toy very loosely, only to say that it's not a need-to-have) but expensive.
Yep. I have read all of the saety concerns with the lasers. The livestock is the only one that I have yet to read a reliable prevention mechanism. I think some people have made tube for firing the laser in from above the tank to try and contain reflections etc...
The trouble with the Palys is exactly the toxins. If you can't remove the rock they are on and you plan on killing a bunch at once, you will probably lose a coral or two. I have had that happen so I never kill more than a couple when my hands are in the tank. Manual removal works best with a water change and a siphon right where you are killing them/removing them. I was thinking a laser might be an easy way to kill a couple at a time with a reasonable frequency (every other day or somethign) - no getting wet, setup, etc... Presumably the laser burns off some of the palytoxin as well. But since the room needs to be empty of people not wearing eye wear, etc... it is not as easy as pick up the laser and fire away
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I have used it and it worked but I think the kalk paste as Der ABT mentioned worked better.
You are referring to the laser? I know people have used them on star polyps to control them with good success. I think the big paly's would take a lot more lasering to kill.
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Not that I'd recommend this approach, but I've tried direct injection with muriatic acid (with success). I've also lasered a few with a 1400 mw laser (not your normal laser pointer, for sure).
The laser is the alternative I am contemplating. I have two nuisance corals (no aiptasia though) that I would like a better way to control. The palys as I don't like messing with them much. I got sick from vapors off of them once - ses another thread on here somewhere
)The second is star polyps that keep surviving manual removal and growing back from what is left of their purple mat.The only drawback to the laser is the potential damage to the fish. It seems like people have not had too much issue with that using the lasers.
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Yes i have, well technically i just use a kalk slurry that i mix up in the old aiptasia X bottle (i think it works the same)
i had success on most...key is to turn off all water movement and let it sit on there for a good 10-15 minutes so the PH swing kills them off.
I may try that. Did you boil the slurry too? I used to that on the aiptasia before I got copper bands. Now they are gone from my tank.
The Aiptasia X has something in it that triggers the Aiptasia to ingest it. I was wondering if palys would as well.
Where to get replacement impellers for old Tunze Stream
in General Discussion
For others reference, they no longer sell replacement impellers for the old Tunze. You need to get lucky finding some excess ones on eBay. They consider 12 years to be the upper limit of the lifespan of the motor circuitry and they quite making the 6100 in 2008. They quit making the impellers in 2019.