Jump to content

Sneeze

BB Participant
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Sneeze

  1.  

     

    Very interesting article.

     

    Obviously, very biased, but well written.

    I don’t agree with everything(most), but it’s often those nuggets of truth that hurt most.

    The one time I visited a wholesaler in LA, attests to his quote of “only one fish in ten makes it to the hobby alive.”

    There were dead fish everywhere.

     

    “Why it’s time to put an end to the cult of the aquarium.”

     

    https://aeon.co/essays/why-it-s-time-to-put-an-end-to-the-cult-of-the-aquarium

     

     

  2. Got a director for the Vega today.

    I wanted to dim the whites, two hours before sunset and it’s great.

    I couldn’t resist taking a few blue pics. I love how the colors pop with the whites off.

    5d2643603fb708a9a28c8979df610061.jpg

    e6001fc9404d9296b1f8b8993c4f8ac4.jpg

    6037e7f3f82c2317cfbf64a022aca15a.jpg

    364a301007375d41d4c8e67913b0948f.jpg

    e2cade5071a79733bc7a0da78677e795.jpg

    884dd6c6a4215717a9af620b0d63494e.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. So no more sand?
     
    I'm betting you don't need a ton of flow for the BTA's, I'd save your money!



    I’ve kinda intentionally not answered this yet. Lol.

    Now that “most” of the sand is out, I don’t have sandstorms but the bottom is still 80% covered.

    Single gyre is set up vertically with only one propeller. Switching between 100% and 10% every 4 seconds.

    No sandstorms and the water is moving pretty good. I still have dead spots though, with detritus piling up on the intake side of the pump. Seems to have taken care of my cat I problem though. I’ll give it another week to see.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Added one of the gyres this week. It works well, vertically, but I couldn’t raise it above 10 %, so the sand had to go.

    Large water change yesterday.

    Siphoned out 3/4 of the sand.

    I’ve been intentionally over feeding the gargantuan green BTA (18”) in hopes of a split with no success. So while I was doing the water change, I picked him up, rock and all, and set him on a wood plank outside the tank for about 30 min.

    Success! I stressed it enough to split last night. Now I have two green beasties.

    Tank looks so much more blue with parts of the bottom glass showing. Far less white reflection. I’m curious to see how the nems respond to the diminished light. Granted, I’m still pushing the vega at 100%, 12 hours a day.

    I found someone on R2R that’s selling me a director for $75. I’m gonna dim the whites on the Vega a bit in the evening for some more blue pop.

    Gonna give it another week before I siphon out the rest of the sand, but the single gyre is pulsing at 30% now. I probably won’t need more then that once I add the second gyre.

    My biggest complaint with the gyres is that I can’t sync them without a controller. I’m thinking about building an arduino board to control their power, alternating between the two every 3-4 minutes. What I really want to do is have them on an “off” sync where one is on/off every 2-3(or ???) min and the other is on/of every 3-4 (or ??? Greater than the other) min with a direct overlap every 18 hours, to match tide cycles.

    Pics for your time:

    a98b054129174b1fdb22c70977e6ccbe.jpg

    6667df214132f6d4fdcde0b080a8d136.jpg

    51f09941d2fad0aea00bf6437b871adf.jpg

    4a702c60e96d3d58ecfdbbc389a59ce7.jpg

    2071661a7626131d05be0e73d49e9b15.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Yup. Completely normal when you first mix it in.

    Once the water becomes saturated, the nice thing about kalk is that the impurities settle out to the bottom as sediment.

    Important not to have a circulation pump keeping it suspended all the time though. Let it settle, and don’t have the ato intake at the bottom. You don’t want to pump the sediment into the tank.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. This is easy to do, but hard to make “perfect”.

    Sand with 120 grit paper, so the paint can adhere.

    Use krylon spray paint for plastic. It’s not “high temp” but it’ll be fine for the temps we’re talking about. Definite below 120°. And it’s reef safe.

    Start with two-three super light coats and let dry. Then sand with 220 grit sandpaper in between 2-3 moderate coats. Not heavy (dripping) or light (dusting). Let dry completely.

    Top it off with krylon clear coat in the finish of your choice (matte, gloss, whatever). Again, sand in between coats.

    Consistency in your coats is the hard part for a perfectly smooth surface.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. I wanna be a clown fish in that tank! Looks awesome!


    Thanks!

    I’ve actually been contemplating an experiment. I can seldom find my two, giant maroons amongst the tentacles. I never see them, unless I’m feeding or looking really, really hard.

    What if I were to add 5-7 baby Lightning’s in there? (I know, loaded question. We only seem to see large harem tanks or single pairs. Harems in the wild aren’t always 20-50 fish.)

    I suppose, I would just have to monitor closely. There will definitely be aggression, and I can pull them if it gets out of hand.

    Great. Now I need to find a clownfish breeder. Thanks guys...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Got a few more nems. Another BIG rose and a couple rainbows.

    I’m eyeballing a dayglo and a CB inferno rainbow on R2R... I’ve got too much red now!

    Picking up a pair of icecap gyre 1k’s tomorrow. Plan is to run them with only one impeller, vertical, with opposite flow on either side of the corner overflow.

    I’m guessing there’s gonna be a sandstorm (oolite is the devil. Never again). When that happens, I’m gonna pull the sand bed and replace with rubble Tonga.

    Anyone have a bucket of rubble collecting dust?

    a53296bd4b68a243420a5884829dfc4f.jpg87b07362d689edded473c0ee98711af1.jpg22be712a0a0b34c6d75646c94c29469f.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. How often have you used that particular tank for QT with copper? Did you test the water before the most recent dosing?

    10-15 years ago, I was moving a lot of fish in and out and learned that my tanks were holding the copper.

    First, it was the terra-cotta pots I was using that held the most, even after bleaching. Then when I threw out all the pumps, heaters and clay pots, I was still getting significant copper readings in the glass tanks after I cleaned them. I seem to remember the conclusion had been that the silicone was holding bound Cu.

    Lesson I learned then was twofold. First, once a tank has been used for QT with copper, assume it will always have Cu. Second, run the tank for 3-5 days, test for Cu, then add fish if safe, dose Cu according to current Cu levels.

    As far as how the fish are responding, I can’t say. It was once said that clownfish could take epic amounts of Cu, but would often sterilize them. It was thought to be one of the biggest hurdles in learning to breed clowns, especially for the “sensitive” varieties like Darwin occelaris that took up to 3 years to become sexually mature. 3 years is a long time to learn that the fish were shooting blanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. Well it might explain why most new introductions take excessively long to acclimate 



    I have a similar problem. I keep my ai Vega at 100%.

    Right now, I’ve got a BTA tank, so they just crawl around to where they’re comfortable. The ones that have been there the longest, have slowly crawled to the highest ricks and are happily bubbled up. They sort of auto-adjust to the lights.

    When I keep corals though, I never light-acclimate them. My thoughts are that if the coral can’t take it, I don’t want a sissy coral in my tank anyways.
    Didn’t work out too well when I tried chalices and jawbreakers a few years ago...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Nice looking mens!
    CSB and LD are nice, but not in the thousand dollars nice. Once they fully opened, they are just slightly brighter than the standard Rose bubble. 


    Agreed. Too expensive.

    I keep meaning to email Bob with iBluewater to see if he still has his supernova BTA. That thing is amazing. Dark blue base and tentacles with red tips. His website has it listed at $350, I think.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12.  
    Don't I know it. There's a local guy that sells some really nice anemones that have some nice orange in them (not CSB) but for the price point beautiful and pretty dang close enough IMO! 
     



    I’ll keep an eye out! Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Looking good! Where did you source your anemones?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



    All over the place.

    First one was a “test” that I picked up from Petco after the tank had been running 2 months.

    Next came the acid rain and a tiny light green guy from capital aquarium.

    Then I got the huge green (18+ inches!) and a large rose from members here on the boards. Rose split two days after I dropped him in the tank.

    Black widows came two weeks ago. Ordered them from a guy on R2R.


    I’m still looking for more.

    Now I want an orange one and a yellow one. Unfortunately CSB and lemon drop are WAY too expensive these days. I was selling CSB’s for $500 bucks four years ago. Now they’re around $1500-$2000!!!!!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Hi.

    I’m Max.

    I’ve built a dedicated BTA tank.

     

    It’s not much yet, but here’s what I’m running so far:

     

    Equipment:

    Deep blue 30 gallon frag tank

    AI Vega set to 100%

    Sicce syncra 2.0 return

    Bubble Magus curve 5 skimmer

    Turbo twist UV sterilizer

    DIY carbon/gfo reactor

     

    Livestock:

    Pair of Gold Stripe Maroon clowns

    Chocolate chip starfish

    Orange linkia starfish

    9 BTAs from six different strains including 3 black widows, 1 acid rain, rose BTAs and green BTAs.

     

    Spot fees the nems every other day.

     

    50% water change every two weeks done by setting up a 30 gallon barrel with and overflow next to the sump and running a mag 3.5 from the sump to the barrel run 12-18 hours.

     

    d3f068979f1934c970d39b59da3e6f09.jpg

     

    5c33dea5074f07d084d70f65d0bdeae5.jpg

     

    dfe3c78cf4f942150c0f7737918b6935.jpg

     

    4a2f7a9eae9a35d2ea0052746c7b537c.jpg

     

    9e4a4dc8e5531c3fe3b7db7b9ad93222.jpg

     

    50e8313e4789af4f50785f2f15f6d5b9.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

×
×
  • Create New...