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jhOU

WAMAS Family Member
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Posts posted by jhOU

  1. for a 40 gallon you may want to consider some of the smaller flasher and fairy wrasses. My Lubbocks fairy wrasse is one of my favorites! 3a9fed81cab448396de4e65c5c942786.jpg


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  2. sps growth is exponential with size, starting with frags in a new system is slow at first, but once they get going it’s like an explosion of growth that’s hard to keep up with lol. Every tank is different and setbacks happen, just have to keep going. My growth explosion happened year 2-3ish. Check out my build thread, the first few posts are yearly snapshots that show my tanks progression and growth rate.

     

  3. 54 minutes ago, howaboutme said:

    They have fish in the same system so I'm always worried about inverts transferring diseases

    specifically for starfish, this isn’t really a concern because they don’t have an exoskeleton for fish parasites to encyst on. Just don’t transfer any bag water, and rinse with tank water in a bucket before transferring.

  4. Yanked out the entire Bill Murray colony today. It was overgrowing and shading too much in the tank. Got it out mostly in 1 piece! along with the asd milli that it was overtaking.  Over 6lbs of coral! The asd milli went back in the tank, but if anybody is looking for a big bill murray colony, check with Adam at aqua haus!

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  5. Couple updates with the tank. Blue stag and yellow tip austera have reached the surface and touching glass… so time to reset the colony, and I’ll be bringing a bunch of frags to fragfest!

     

    I’ve also recently added a pair of my dream fish, 2 borbonius anthias! They’ve been in the display about a week. However, my longnose hawkfish absolutely hates them, and has kept them in hiding. I was surprised to see the longnose had such animosity to the borbs. He hasn’t shown aggression to any other fish before, hoping he will settle down soon.

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  6. 15 hours ago, AlanM said:

    RMA replacement arrived finally.  It's an Apex Jr they sent, not an Apex Pro despite the invoice in the box saying Apex Pro. Looks like it will be a while longer.

    wow that’s annoying… I hope they rush shipped another replacement and told you to just keep the Jr for your trouble.

  7. Have you tried rebooting? You can reboot via the misc settings (wrench symbol). If that does not fix it… graphs disappearing seems to be a common symptom of corrupted sd card. You may want to submit a support ticket to neptune just in case. b92ea80e15196e51ce0ca908742cf228.jpg


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  8. 8 minutes ago, Origami said:

    There was an article years ago (I think it was written by Randy Holmes Farley) that included some coral skeletal composition data within. If I'm not mistaken, it may have been an article titled, "When Do Calcium and Alkalinity Demand Not Exactly Balance?" In it (or in the article I'm recalling), RHF notes that some tanks may see unbalanced calcium and alkalinity consumption depending on the mix of species in the tank as some species had a greater or lesser tendency to substitute a magnesium ion in place of a calcium ion in the calcification process. Coralline algae was up there as I recall.

    By the way, the article is an excellent read if you can find it.

    Sent from my Note 10+5g using Tapatalk
     

    very interesting! found the article https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-12/rhf/index.php 

  9. 1 hour ago, nburg said:

    I’ve also ‘heard’ that monti’s use more Mg than most other stonies which might be why I have never had to dose Mg in my lifetime. 

    I’ve heard the same about montis, but idk. For whatever reason monti digitata hates my tank, but plating/encrusting/spongodes montis love it.

  10. 3 minutes ago, YHSublime said:

     

    Congrats on the baby!

     

    And is Part C Magnesium? 1250 is in the acceptable range I thought? Looks like you were keeping yours on the above higher then average end. 

    Thanks! TM part C is sodium chloride free salt, basically its salt mix without NaCl/cal/alk. The primary ingredient is magnesium, and it has been sufficient to maintain my mag which is typically around 1350-1400. I do a 25 gallon weekly water change, so i’m sure that helped mitigate any major issues.

  11. I borrowed the wamas apogee par meter, to compare against my seneye… my par is a bit higher than I realized. The seneye is very finicky with angles and indirect light, so i’m not surprised. The seneye initially got me in the ballpark of where I wanted to be, so I’m not complaining. I’m not changing anything, was just curious.image.thumb.jpeg.6d8ae76dd3e4834020d764361fc5ee9e.jpeg

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  12. 1 hour ago, Origami said:

    Very good. I bounce between PLA and PETG, and sometimes ABS. ABS is a pain to dial in and I have to keep the build plate hot and the printer enclosed so cooling/shrinking doesn't cause problems. PETG can sometimes be (tolerably) stringy - I see variation between manufacturers - but I still like it. I have a roll of unopened eSun nylon, but I'll have to dry it out before trying it out someday. My hot end should be able to reach the needed temperature, but there's not a lot of margin, so it's an experiment that I need to conduct someday. 

     

    You've done some really nice work with your Ender. Whose PETG are you using and what are your working parameters?

    I’m using Overture PETG. It’s the only brand I’ve tried, but it seems to be reasonably easy to work with. My settings are basically just the default Cura PETG profile with nozzle temp 235 bed 70. I am also using a PEI bed, which made a pretty big difference over the stock bed. 

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