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Jon M Profeta

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Posts posted by Jon M Profeta

  1. It does work. It's just that I was never there when it was almost night time. I had to change the whites to dim down faster then the blues so it looks like it was turning from day to night. But it looks to be a success. Thanks to all of you guys.

     

     

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  2. I haven't really been home during those times. In the morning by the time I wake up and get my kids ready it is already at 80% and you cannot really tell the difference. I am really going to try and monitor it tonight so I can tell if it works. Here is a pic of the other side of the tank. YEg4Vr3.jpgVsaCybZ.jpg

     

     

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  3. I think that I just got the settings right with the ramp times. It does work well. The only thing that I miss is the ability to just turn the knobs. Just thinking if I had to turn the lights on when there off I am gonna have to go in and change the ramp time and ect. But after I get the lights on the proper dimming schedule it should be fine. They just came out with a new modal that is supposed to blow their competition out of the water. Think it's called Archon. You can check it out at www.digitalaquatics.org

     

     

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  4. Ok. I hooked it up just now. The house was engulfed in flames. Waiting for the fire department to put out the fire. Lol. J/k. It seems to be working correctly. I set alc to the right times ramp and intensity. So we will see if it works Tonight.

     

     

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  5. Jon, you'll have to do some hookup work on your own, but if you want to paypal me $5.75 to munter@gmail.com for priority mail postage (I have to pay the retail rate at the post office), I'll stick one of the green ones made by O2Surplus on RC originally in the mail to you that can take 4 channels of 0-10V input and output 4 channels of 5V PWM. 

     

    You need to supply a 12V supply voltage on the two terminals on the left side of the green boards.  You'd do that with a 12V power supply from a surplus pile somewhere or buy one from Radio Shack or something and cut the plug off and screw down the wires going in to the board.  Then you put the 0-10V input on one end (labelled on the circuit board) and the 5V PWM comes out the other (also labelled).  You probably just need to use two of the channels since the D120s have two channels and you can split it a few times, so you'd have 4 wires going to the input side for your 2 channels coming form the ALC on the reefkeeper and you'd have 4 wires, split into, I guess, 6 each, coming out the 5V PWM output going to the black and yellow pins on your various drivers for each channel.

    Let me know your paypal email address and i will send the money today.. 

  6. Jon, here are the boards I have. I'm willing to send one to you if you want it to try out and want to paypal me a couple dollars for postage. They take in 10V analog (DC) and output 5V digital (PWM). They all work. The StevesLEDs ones on the left react a little bit faster, but the O2Surplus (smart guy on Reef Central) boards on the right can be reprogrammed if you buy a 6-pin FTDI to USB cable on ebay or somewhere.

     

    IMAG1731_zpsnums9djp.jpg

    I would do that. But how would this hook up. I am pretty good with electronics but just need to be put in the right direction. Lmk.

     

     

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  7. Wait, does the reefkeeper only output 0-5v DC for control? If so, I can load new code on the little board I send to consider that full range and do 0-5v PWM from 0-5v DC. Actually, any arduino board from radio shack and 5 lines of program can do the same job with no modifications.

    the reef keeper only has 2 ports for 0-10v. what do you mean loading code onto what board? the alc? i just checked there website and they are coming out with a module this month called Archon that is supposedly going to blow the competitions controllers away.... looks really cool but from what info i found its going to be expensive, but what isn't in this hobby..lol.. 

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