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DCReefer1964

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Posts posted by DCReefer1964

  1. 33 minutes ago, tpallas said:

     

    You read my mind. The inside is actually sprayed with a lacquer. As I live in a condo, and with the hardwood I'm trying to minimize leak risk. I am going to paint the interior with a waterproof white to match the exterior. I've thought about some sort of plastic liner on the bottom (water tray). I will have leak detection sensors to shut things down. I think if I set it up properly the only residual risk would be from seam failure in the tank, which judging by the thickness and seam quality seems highly unlikely.

    Use 2 part marine paint. It will seal like a swimming pool.

  2. 58 minutes ago, Bmp78 said:

    I would appreciate some help with coral placement based on my tank design. 

    Once you have selected your lights and mounted them. You will need a par meter to get your results at different levels in you tank.

  3. 2 hours ago, therootcause said:


    Thank you! I test for Calcium and Alkalinity with my Hanna checkers. I do have kalk, but I’ve never used it. In my small display I control it through water changes.

    I’m going to keep the lights off and the lid on while it’s cycling. The tank is in my basement so I’d like to keep evaporation to a minimum at least for the next month while I let the tank mature.

    Thanks for the advice.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Tagging along. BTW what did the tank cost?

  4. 2 hours ago, AlanM said:

    9 Watts of UV lighting seems very low for their rating of 125 gallons.  For reference, AquaUV which lots of people have used here for years, lists 25W for their "Classic" series to handle an aquarium that size.  Just adding the twisting path in this Twist doesn't account for additional capacity to kill organisms.  it just changes the geometry of the water path.  You still need the same water/light contact time per unit of UV radiant power to do the same amount of pathogen killing.

    +1

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