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Formerly Freshwater

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Posts posted by Formerly Freshwater

  1. http://www.reef2rainforest.com/2016/07/20/captive-bred-blue-hepatus-tangs-a-breakthrough-success-in-fl/

     

    http://risingtideconservation.org/first-successful-aquaculture-of-pacific-blue-tang/

     

    It looks like scientists at the University of Florida in cooperation with rising tides have managed to get a culture of Hippo tangs past the metamorphosis stage, the most challenging part of raising this fish in captivity! This first batch probably won't end up in hobbyist hands (there's only 27 specimens so far) but this is still huge news for our conservation efforts!

  2. I'm his roomate!

     

    So here's the general plan for anyone interested

     

    Tank - 10 Gallon Standard - If anyone has an AGA 10 long I would be amazed but they don't seem to exist anymore, and if any y'all have that or a 12 long you don't want, hit us up!)

     

    Light - Current Orbit Marine standard - 24" (hey, it's what we already have)

     

    Filtration - Aquaclear 50 with Kraylen's sump mod (http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/192628-kraylens-aquaclear-110-fuge-mod/) + a thing of ClearFX pro, which has Carbon, Resin, and GFO in one package

     

    Skimmer - Redsea Prizm HOB

     

    Sand - Fiji Pink, 10 Lb

     

    Live Rock - 10 Lb, pre-cured, taken from our own tanks

     

    Heater - Cobalt Neo-Therm 50 - Space here is key, and we want to use the thinnest possible heater. Would a nano undergravel work, or are those outdated?

     

    Powerheads - Maybe a Sicce 1 if the aquaclear doesn't provide enough movement.

     

    ~~~

     

    As for stocking the idea is to go with soft coral such as Palys, Zoas, maybe a frag of Sinularia, maybe a Mini Maxi.

     

    As the tank may have to sit alone for up to 4 weeks at a time, everything needs to be as hardy as possible. We did read the article in the new Reef Hobbyist about the dude that puts his reef to sleep, but that kind of control with dosing pumps is unattainable for us. While I could build a gravity ATO pretty easily, and auto feeders for fish aren't a lot, a dosing pump kit is out of the question, as the price is too high. 

  3. Hey everyone!

     

    I'm looking to frag these Green Nepthea in my tank and was wondering if any of you would be willing to help me out. I've never propagated my own coral before!

     

    These are stuck to the main display rock, and removing them from the tank is impossible, so I need a way to cut them cleanly and sterilize the wounds in the tank. I have 10 plugs ready to go, but I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach them to said plugs as well. I know many of you have way nicer corals, but I'd be willing to donate a few of the frags to some helpers!

     

    h5Npzrs.jpg?1-Matt -LGV10, no filters or optics

  4. Thanks for all the advice! Here's the current maintenance/feeding schedule as u/Anemone asked for:

     

    Feeding - (alternating days) 1 cube of PE Mysis or 1 pinch of New Life their A+ marine pellet

     

    Maitenance -

    (daily) make sure everything is running

    (every other day) empty skimmer cup

    (Bi-weekly) check Calc and Alk, dose as needed

    (Weekly) dose trace and essential elements, wipe off light, WATER CHANGE-10 GALLONS

    (Monthly) replace filter carbon and Clearmax(GFO?), cut back 'Fuge macro, clean inside of skimmer cup

    (as needed) clean Powerhead and pumps, scrape tank glass, top off RO reservoir

  5. Hey everyone, I'm currently a senior in high school and I'll be leaving for college in Florida in about 6 months. My parents have expressed interest in keeping my reef running while I'm away, and I'm looking for some advice on how to make it as easy as possible for them to do so.

    I already plan on adding a 5 gallon half-calc reservoir for an ATO system, and am also saving up for a set of Hana digital meters to make testing easier for them. I'll be staying in regular communication with them at college, but there's only so much I can do from 900 odd miles away. What can I do to make keeping the reef as easy as possible for them while staying on a part timer's budget?

     

    Tank Specs

    Lightly stocked Mixed Reef (LPS, Softies, toying with the idea of a small Birds nest SPS)

    65 Gallon (36x18x25)

    Lighting - Evergrow IT2060

    Filtration - CPR HOB Sump, Fluval 306 (carbon only), Marineland C220 (clearmax [GFO?] only)

    Skimmer - Reef Octopus BH1000 HOB skimmer

    Heater - Aqueon PRO 250w

    (No pictures right now. Sorry!)

  6. Hey everyone, it's been a long time since my last post but I'm back!

     

    So here's the problem - I'm currently running a nano (about 36 gallon) reef with relative success, but I'm going off to college this fall. My folks love the tank and want to keep the reef, but want something a little more stable. I've since bought a used 65 gallon tank (36wx18dx24h) and plan to set it up, transferring all of the stock and live rock from the 36 to the 65. My parents are helping to pay for it, but had some sticker shock when checking out the lights. My top choice is a 36" orbit marine pro, which I could get for ~$360, but I was wondering if WAMAS had any better suggestions. My coral are basic leathers, euphillia, zoanthids, and one small Acan colony, lit by a Current Orbit standard, but the power and blend of the light leave something to be desired. Is the $360 LED my best option, or is there something better? Any help is greatly appreciated!

  7. Even with fully cured rock you'll still have a cycle. I've always had my algae bloom after the cycle is closer to being done and from my experience hermits and turbos wont do much for diatoms. I have heard that nerites and ceriths are good snails for diatom algae though. What kind of hermits did you get? As far as food- the hermits can live off the pellets but I would give the turbos dried seaweed. I'm with Ryan on removing them, they'll most likely die with the high levels during your cycle or starve before you have the correct algae growing. I have heard that nerites and ceriths are good snails for diatom algae though.

     

    Not to scare you, just slow down. ;) Where are you located? Maybe someone closeby can assist or maybe even keep your cuc 'til your tank is ready.

     

    What is the marineland 12? 12"? single/double bright? reef capable?

    If it has the plug on the actual light fixture, be careful as it may rust in the socket. Marineland is being awesome and replacing mine, but it's not very good at handling salt creep and water mist (I kept the feet extended as the fixture did not stretch to the edges of my tank). My advice would be to just check it often for moisture/rust.

     

    For the anemone I would wait 3-6 months. Clowns can also host in a number of other corals (and random other things as well!) that look like anemones and aren't as demanding. I would think a bubble tip would be fine if it was the only thing in there as far as corals. Or keep things that are more resistent to anemone stings. Keep in mind they get big. Condy anemones stay small enough for your tank I would think. What else are you thinking for livestock (what kind of clowns, other fish/inverts, etc.)?

     

     

     

    What equipment do you have? Can you tell us more about your tank?

     

     

     

    The tank is an Aqueon 37 gal bowfront with a Marineland 12LED light as well as a full hood. It has 2 rows of 4 white lights and a row of 4 blue in the center. There is a HOB, CPR brand, 3.7 gallon Model CF2PSS, sump/ skimmer combo with 2 inches of aragonite sand and a clump of hair algae, lit by a 100 watt CFL. One timer is set for 12 hours on for the sump and the other 10 hours on for the main display. There are roughly 35 pounds of cured live rock and 20 pounds of live sand in the main display. There are 10 Fiji red leg hermit crabs, each totaling in with a 1/2-3/4 inch shell. There are two 1inch shell turbo snails, both doing fine, though one keeps getting flipped by my powerhead. The power head, rated for a 60 gallon aquarium, is located at the bottom-left side of the display, pointing slightly upwards to create flow around the central stack of live rock. The heater, located in the sump, is set to 82degrees Fahrenheit. I will post a picture as soon as I can get my camera hooked up.

  8. Day 1: Saltwater.

    Day 2: Live Rock.

    Day 4: 10 Hermits and 2 Turbo Snails.

     

    I think you need to slow down... You haven't had your cycle yet and you've added 12 inverts. Hermits and turbo snails need algae to eat and survive. Maybe there is enough on your live rock, but inverts don't usually go in the tank until after the cycle process. I don't know if they will survive the cycle process you're going to have. Your ammonia, nitrate and nitrite levels are going to soar, and that will likely kill them.

     

    Someone else can chime in if I am wrong, but I'd remove the inverts right away. And wait at least a month before adding them, and only if your ammonia, nitrate and nitrite levels are all reading 0.

     

    All of the hermits are incredibly small at about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, and I plan to feed High-Quality algae pellets until the algae really starts to pick up. Also, the live rock was fully cured and I was told by my local dealer it would be safe to add the hermits and snails to deal with the coming algae bloom..

  9. The clowns can go in sooner but I would wait about 3 months on anemone. You need to make sure the tank is fully finished being cycled before adding the anemone. Once you have zero readings for ammonia and nitrite it is safe to add the anemone. I would recommend the E. quadricolor as it is very hardy and tank raised ones are easy to find. What type of lighting do you have?

     

    I have a Marineland 12 LED set for the display and a 100 Watt CFL lighting the sump.

  10. I just finished setting up my first saltwater tank, a 37g. bow front, on Saturday, on Sunday I added fully cured live rock, and today I added 10 tiny Fiji red leg hermits and 2 turbo snails. I really want to put in my clowns and an anemone, but I don't know how long I should wait before buying them. Also, what specie of anemone will even fit in a 37 other than Aptasia? All of the books I have raid have only anemones with at least a min. tank size of 50g's. Thanks!

  11. I have almost finished gathering supplies for and setting up my 37 Gallon bow front saltwater fish tank, and I recently received a nice HOB sum/skimmer setup for the tank. I need to light the sump, but I don't want to buy the really expensive lights from the pet store, nor do I want to do a complex hanging system, and I was wondering if anybody had any ideas on what kinds of mass market bulbs and clips I could use to set up a DIY light in the sump. I would really appreciate it if someone could give me the brand names for the clips and/or bulbs so I would know that it was reef safe and could grow the proper algae. Thanks for your consideration!

  12. Your fish list seems fine to me. For soft corals I would recommend mushrooms, xenia, zoanthids,leather corals, toadstools, and star polyps. Tell us with exact light you plan to use so we can make sure it is big enough? What filter are you going to use?

     

    Ill probably be using a big hang on filter for a short time before I upgrade to a 10 gallon sump.

  13. Finally getting around to setting up an old 37 bowfront I had as a salt tank. I'm hoping to use a double LED strip at the top for lighting, but I know nothing about soft corals and I was wondering if anybody had some good species to suggest for a beginner. Also, I was thinking of stocking it with a Flame Angel, some Firefish, a pair of clowns Clowns, and maybe a Green Mandarin later in time. Any thoughts?

  14. I'm a 13 year old hobbyist just staring up a salt tank, and I cant decide whether or not to put in a sump. My dad doesn't want water all over the floor, so he says to just go with a hang on filter, but I want some advice from some more experienced people on whether or not a sump is really worth it. Thanks!

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