Oleg
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Posts posted by Oleg
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That's a very good idea. I did send him an email, trying to explore how and why this thing happened and what we can do to prevent those and of course to enquirer on the status of the repair. He replied with just they status of the repair, tracking number and such and completely ignored other questions
One more question. Where can I find flux cleaner in NOVA? Radio Shack?
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I'm considering dropping a line to Curt (at Neptune) to at least try to bring some attention to this.
That's a very good idea. I did send him an email, trying to explore how and why this thing happened and what we can do to prevent those and of course to enquirer on the status of the repair. He replied with just they status of the repair, tracking number and such and completely ignored other questions
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Thank you Tom for taking your time to look at that. I'll open mine to clean up those issue that you pointed out. I also wonder whether the replacement board is any better or different from what I had.
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I hadn't noticed the capacitor in the top of the pictures. It looks like an axial-leaded device - it's hard to see, but it looks like there are leads coming out of both flats on the cap. If that were the case, it wouldn't fit in the space for C51, which is laid out for a radial-leaded device. Also, those through-holes look unused.
I thought so too. I'll open new one some day just to see where everything was.
Now I wonder more why it happened and how do I prevent it.
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Capacitor looked clean. I wonder if problem started because capacitor fell off or capacitor fell off because of the heat.
I also could not find the place on the board where that capacitor was. C51 looks like it can be one, but it looks clean.
Looks like a fried power transistor. (Hard to say, though. I can't read the device part number or reference designator.) There was a ton of heat on that board. Even the battery lead is showing discoloration. The replacement was probably the best option. Was the capacitor that was rattling around blackened, too, or did it look pretty clean?
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They said the board is damaged so they are replacing entire board, in essence entire controller.
Wow, that seems expensive for a capacitor change.....those components are dirt cheap. I suspect you are paying for their time to verify that it is working properly after being fixed.
Darren
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Well I kind of know what went broke. When I removed it from the stand I felt something was rattling inside and there was smell of burned plastic so I opened it up and I found one of large capacitors just fell off and one place on the board looked like something burned. I took some pictures. I'll post them later.
My guess is that capacitors just should not fell off the board on quality product. But the warranty is over so I have no choice other then pay for repair.
Oleg, did Neptune tell you any more about what went wrong, or why?
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I need some advice. My Apex controller main module broke. So I have sent it to Neptune's and they said that the repair is going to cost $150. So I wonder is it possible to find used controller for less than that? Just main module. I do not need a display nor energy bar.
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Just got to the skimmer. It is 10" one indeed. I am going to order one.
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Hey guys,
What is the correct swabbie model/size for Deltec AP702?
Also do you keep retail place or showroom somewhere in the area where we can touch your products?
Thanks,
Oleg
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Yep I saw his post and sent him PM. That's an option too if he is not going to charge too much.
Jeff (NAGA) recently said he had a surplus of acrylic and was making sumps & medium-2-small aquariums cheap. Just a thought.
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Hi,
I am shopping for some acrylic sheets to build a sump. Are there local shops preferably in NoVA that sell 3/8 and 1/4 thick acrylic and that are cheaper than online sources like Ridout plastics etc?
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Probe was calibrated in August. Ph before lights on is 8.07.
Isn't PH at 8.07 a bit low anyway?
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I would go to the Asian market off Farmwell Rd. (used to be a Shoppers Food Warehouse), they sell those orange sushi eggs that my Mandarin eats. I imagine it looks the same.
That's interesting idea. I just got some of it. I wonder though. That is some fish and I guess it is salted or there maybу some other additives in it. Also do you freeze/thaw it first before serving to fish to kill potential parasites?
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Oh good. I will see if they still have some tomorrow.
Thanks a lot!
I think JohnnyB said he carries it in the post he made about getting the ORA mandarins.
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Does anybody know what store NOVA preferably near Ashburn has Nutramar Ova. I got the ORA mandarin two weeks ago, but I did not personally see it eating anything prepared so I want to try Nutramar Ova.
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I was looking for the 40W UV sterilizer and found Aqua UV one for $100. I did not close the deal on that one, but I am reading now that Emperor Aquatic sterilizers are so much better than Aqua UVs.
So I wonder will Emperor Aquatic lamp work in Aqua UV unit?
And what should I check on that Aqua UV unit when I pick it up?
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According to Google Maps Roberts O2 is pretty much the only welding supplier in my area.
I just got reply from them with the quote. They charge $21.10 plus tax to exchange 5 lbs cylinder.
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I hope I am getting calcium reactor today so I wonder where can I fill the CO2 tanks up in NO VA, preferably close to Ashburn?
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I am sorry Roni. I mistakenly took your forum status for your name.
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I guess I'll be posting WTB topic very soon.
BTW are those 3/4 returns and 1" drain are too small for 175g?
Should I try to drill them out to let's say 1 and 1.5?
ouch, called out for being an urchin j/k i used one in the past for dual return without any problems. i've never used a chiller on any of my systems. i'd use one now if my sump was drilled but i'm stuck with a mag 18.
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Urchin,
Did you use T4 with dual return lines? I also just read that they can add some heat to the water. Did you notice that?
i have a velocity t4. have run one before and liked it. didn't end up using it on this setup since the sump wasn't drilled. the darts are good as well.
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Aren't those Eheims a bit too small to drive dual return line at 6'?
Also to the topic of external vs. internal. What are the advantages and disadvantages of either one? I was thinking that external pump would transfer less heat to the water. Is that true?
I hope not to use cooler as it adds a lot of noise and power consumption.
What else?
I know you said external, and I run two myself, but I have built two systems in the last 3 months that I used these on and you can not even hear them run, and IMHO perfect for an enclosed type system.
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I am building 175 gallon bowfront that will be sitting in living room with all equipment in its stand. So I need really quiet return pump. I guess external pump is the way to go. But it will be my first external pump so I am clueless which brands / models work well. I currently run Mag 5 on 29 biocube which is noisy. I guess partially due to rigid PVC plumbing.
New tank is Oceanic bowfront and has two Megaflow overflows with one 3/4" and one 1" bulkheads in each. I the pump needs to keep up with that. I guess return is like 5-6' high.
I read that a lot of people use Dart.
How are those Velocity T4? Are they powerful enough?
Apex to repair or to replace
in General Discussion
Thank you Tom. I have got my Apex back from repair. New board has the same hardware version 1.1 as old one. Although there is one extra capacitor (I think), the blue one in the middle.
It seems like it has more flux than old one. Here is how it looked before cleaning: