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walter

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    Algae help

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    from another thread

     

    VHOs last 8 months before you have poor performance. T5 seem to last about 10-11 months. I base this on what I observe from my coral growth. The lights still look good. But when you replace them - WOW you see the difference, and your coral really grow!

     

    As for short photoperiods - I think that is treating a symptom and not the problem(s). Your water chem is the problem, not the light.

     

    I thought so too, so I checked them. Well at least the known culprits. Ammonia=0, Nitrites=0ppm, Nitrates=~20-30ppm, Phosphates=0, chlorine=0, ph is 8.2, alk is good

     

    Im using DI water only (A. Calfo uses it too so dont bash). Maybe its the nitrates. Time for a water change. My friend keeps telling me to wait till they get a little higher like 40ppm, but every time I test its around 20.

    Im building a sump/fuge so I can make that my water change. I hope to add some chaeto too.

     

     

    just a quick look on the internet..Nitrates = food for algae. I need to get it down to less than 5. Could this be the problem?

     

    Why had i not did a water change before? Well because I thought my tank was still cycling. Nitrites would go down, but ammonia would go up slightly. So I waited. Well I guess I can say my tank has cycled.

     

     

    sort of update or question. Saw this on wetweb media. Is it true? I use api test strips (I know, there are more accurate tests)

    <nitrate can be measured as nitrate-nitrogen or as an ion. The actual nitrate level on most test kits is a multiple (4.4) of your given reading. As such, your 25 ppm is actually over 100ppm. You have hardy creatures, however, and have noticed that things are relatively fine for now. However, many inverts and some fish such as the Angels, butterflies and tangs will almost suffer certainly in time from exposure. Do aim for under 10ppm>

     

    I also feed everyday. I should switch to every other day?

    Another quick question. Im using a filter sock. Does this make the nitrates high too. I try to change them every 3 days, but honestly its more like 1/ week

    T-5 bulb question...

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    VHOs last 8 months before you have poor performance. T5 seem to last about 10-11 months. I base this on what I observe from my coral growth. The lights still look good. But when you replace them - WOW you see the difference, and your coral really grow!

     

    As for short photoperiods - I think that is treating a symptom and not the problem(s). Your water chem is the problem, not the light.

     

    I thought so too, so I checked them. Well at least the known culprits. Ammonia=0, Nitrites=0ppm, Nitrates=20ppm, Phosphates=0, chlorine=0, ph is 8.2, alk is good

     

    Im using DI water only. Maybe its the nitrates. Time for a water change. My friend keeps telling me to wait till they get a little higher like 40ppm, but every time I test its around 20.

    Im building a sump/fuge so I can make that my water change. I hope to add some chaeto too.

     

     

    just a quick look on the internet..Nitrates = food for algae. I need to get it down to less than 5. Could this be the problem?

     

    Why had i not did a water change before? Well because I thought my tank was still cycling. Nitrites would go down, but ammonia would go up slightly. So I waited. Well I guess I can say my tank has cycled.

     

     

    sort of update or question. Saw this on wetweb media. Is it true?

    <nitrate can be measured as nitrate-nitrogen or as an ion. The actual nitrate level on most test kits is a multiple (4.4) of your given reading. As such, your 25 ppm is actually over 100ppm. You have hardy creatures, however, and have noticed that things are relatively fine for now. However, many inverts and some fish such as the Angels, butterflies and tangs will almost suffer certainly in time from exposure. Do aim for under 10ppm>

     

    Ill start a new thread. sorry to the OP

    T-5 bulb question...

    in General Discussion

    Not the OP but how do you know when you need new lights? I heard they last 2 yrs. truth? I just bought the lights from a member at was told that they have at least 5 more months left. Im starting to get green algae on the sand and rocks.

     

    Had PC before but had to keep the lights to a 2-4hr photo period because it was getting bad. I thought the new lights would fix this. Sorry to threadjack but I had t5 questions too.

    Can't Figure Out Why Fish Are Dying

    in New to the Hobby

    How are you acclimating your new fish to your tank after you buy them?

     

    Im not the OP, but I would think fish wouldnt be surviving 6 days after adding them if they were in shock.

     

    I usually float the bag for 30m then add a little tank water for 5 min then dump them in. All have survived.

    Can't Figure Out Why Fish Are Dying

    in New to the Hobby

    · Edited by walter

    Josh,

    Take a look at this.

     

    http://saltaquarium.about.com/library/weekly/aa101602.htm

     

    Stray Voltage in Saltwater Aquariums

     

    two line from the article

     

    # Sudden Death of Tank Inhabitants - Many aquarists have tested for voltage leaks in their tanks after experiencing a sudden and otherwise inexplicable loss of fish in their tanks and found that a faulty appliance used in conjunction with their tank was the cause.

    # Unusual Behavior of Tank Inhabitants - When continuos strange behavior such as a rapid and jerky swimming pattern or frequent quivering of tank inhabitants is observed, many aquarists have discovered that the cause was stray voltage.

     

    Worth a check

    Frag tank Construction

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    Thanks. That thing was a pain to move behind my tank. Lets just say everything I could have done wrong with setting up my tank I did. Outlet in the middle of the tank, Tank really close to wall, no stud above the tank, vent about the tank, Structure a little taller than I needed it to be, etc. But like you said it did work out. Your project turned out fantastic too.

    Frag tank Construction

    in General Discussion

    I actually got it to work. The problem was that the light was too heavy and would cause the virtical pole to bend. I simply attached a eyehook behind it at the bend and attached a metal wire to the pole and the hook. Problem solved.

     

     

    gallery_2631718_471_10024.jpg

    Frag tank Construction

    in General Discussion

    I tried this and it didnt work. My Tek 6 light is too heavy. I need to find either another option or something to brace the vertical PVC.

     

     

    Cant find a stud near my tank. Afraid of the lights coming through the drywall into the tank. Any suggestions?

    Frag tank Construction

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    Thanks for the nice words.

     

    Ron,

     

    Below are some photos to show you a little more detail. It was simple to do, I just used a pvc floor brace to hold it up and wedged it together between the back of the tank and wall. I did it this way bc we are moving the tank to another spot, where I will make a more secure and long lasting setup. I did not want to tear up the wall.

     

    I'm sure you could use some clamps or brackets to secure the pvc directly to the back of your stand to make it secure. I just didn't go that route yet.

     

    Close up of the top. I just drilled small holes through the pvc and screwed in the eye brackets and secured the chain with an S hook.

     

    What size is that pvc? 1/2"?

    Hanging Lights without puting them in ceiling.

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    Going to get a light set, but there are no studs over the tank. So I dont want to put them in the drywall and have it come through.

     

    I was thinking about building a pvc hanger of sorts, but dont know if that will work.

     

    Can anyone give suggestions on how to hang lights without being able to put them in the ceiling?

     

    maybe something like this:

     

    lightrailresizedADA.jpg

    Return from the living dead?

    in General Discussion

    Ok so some of you might remember my post about a month or so ago about me buying 2 clowns, a peppermint shrimp, a turbo snail, and cerith snail, and a few hermits. Anyways within 2 days both clowns died to trama, the turbo and the shrimp disappeared from the tank all together. I moved rocks and still nothing. So I chocked it up as them dieing and ...i dont know what. My ammonia never spiked so I counted it as good bacteria countering it.

     

    Well about 2 weeks ago the turbo snail shows up. Im like WOW :clap: there you are. Then I get hope from the shrimp.

     

    Side question: Are snails usually this sediment? They seem to find a place and stay there for days on end. Their alive because when i try to move them, they are stuck (holding onto the glass or rock).

     

    Back on topic:

     

    Anyways about 3 days ago I see this white blob on the left of my sand. Im like what is that? I poke it with my net and it rips open and I see what looks like crab claws and a crab face (eyes and tentacles). I shed a tear and get scared again because of the clown incident. I remove it from the tank and check my ammonia level. Went from 0 to .50 from the day before. The next day I see another blob in the same place. Just more of the same. I assume its from the same animal (although i dont see any empty shells other than the ones i put in there). I scope it out and dig around the sand to get any pockets of dead animal out.

     

    Well here is the kicker. This morning I go to look at my tank and I see what looks like the peppermint shrimp I put in there about a month ago. Its in the same spot as the decomp bubble. Full body intact (but dead). The antenna are moving but I think its the current. Crabs and snails are near it. snails are having a good ol time. It looks translucent other than the tail. Check ammonia levels and its between .25 and .5. I will leave the carcass in there for the mean time.

     

    So this brings me to the question at hand (yeah I know i could have just asked). Anyways. I have read about 3 month molting stories. Is this a shell molt or the deceased resident? Why show up now? Did I crush it when I moved the rocks? Do peppermint shrimps hide in the sand? I thought they hid in rocks.

     

    gallery_2631718_471_47978.jpg

     

    Can I leave it in there for food?

     

    Anyways. I have since the original incident got 2 true clowns, a cleaner shrimp, many snails and crabs (thanks again trockafella). Other than one of my chromis doing the out of tank dive (still think the clowns made it do it (they took the chromis hiding spot)) Every thing is alive and playing nicely. The clowns are even letting the shrimp clean it.

     

    I have also somehow got a pod colony going. Food for everyone :bb:

     

    Thanks for answering my questions and putting up with my LONG story and (side notes)

    Issue with open top tank and lights

    in General Discussion

    This is the reason why I have been asking about lights.

     

    My Coralife 48" fixture just blew 2 10k bulbs in 2 weeks. The place i bought the lights think im trying to run a scam. They also suggested I get the ballasts checked. Anyway I dont know whats going on.

     

    I was gonna buy a retrofit kit to replace the internals, get lights off of some of the members, or buy something off of ebay.

     

    Most of these say not to use with an open top tank or covered aquarium only. I dont have a cover. Even with a splash shield they said to only use with a covered aquarium.

     

     

    So what gives? I cant invest in lamps and take the chance that salt/water evaporation is killing my fixtures. The only thing I have is some spare eggcrate, but heard about how this kills the light output.

     

    So I dont know what to do.

    RO/DI Questions

    in General Discussion

    Just like anything else numbers can be fudged, and a cheaper unit that says it can produce 150gpd probably isn't going to do as good of a job as a unit that is similarly priced and says it does 75gpd.

    To save myself the headache that you are going through I bought a proven unit from air water and ice that is a sponsor of the club.

    I bought it a little over a month and a half ago, and am now going through a divorce and will be selling it.

    If you are interested, let me know, it is just about brand new, with about 150 gallons going through it.

    I have the Typhoon Compact Extreme with tds meter and all the goodies - rated at 75gpd.

     

     

    Yeah man. keep me in the loop. I know how it can be going through a divorce.

    RO/DI Questions

    in General Discussion

    For me, it was nearly impossible to determine which RO/DI I was going to purchase until determined a few requirements, such as:

     

    Cost

    Accesories(psi gauge, psi holding tank for non marine use (drinking), tds meters etc)

    After you pin those down, then you can start really cutting out particular units.

    In my case I wanted 100gpd, psi gauge, RO/DI, home use compatible, quality RO membrane, tds meter for under 200 dollars. This was not easy to find, but so far I am very happy with my water manfacturing company unit off of ebay. The DI resin has exhausuted rather quickly, but I was expecting that.

     

    I think in general you will save money by ordering online.

     

     

    For me I dont need it for drinking. I just need to be able to hook it to a faucet (sink, water hose, etc) and at least produce 35gpd. I would also like to spend less than $150.

     

    The problem is that on ebay there are several options from 50-150 and produce from 35-150. Do i go for most gpd for the cheapest? Why or how can these companies afford to sell units so cheaply(<$100) yet produce 150 gpd yet local shops sell 35gpd for $100

    RO/DI Questions

    in General Discussion

    Ok, so Ive been using either conditioned tap water (added de-clorine/chlorimine) or buying distilled water.

     

    It was ok at first then I started getting hair algae. Checked my phosphates and they were like 1ppm. I bought a clean-up crew to fix the situation right now.

     

    So im looking at ro/di units. Ive seen one on Drs. Fos for $140 and then i looked on ebay. Ebay has everything from 35-150 gpd 4 stage to 8 stage with prices as low as $65-150.

     

    So what do I buy? More for less or.......

     

    This also brings up another question. If Im getting algae because of levels of phospahates and other things and i get a RO/DI unit wont this get rid of the algae that the cleanup crew is eating? Wont they starve? I dont have a problem with the algae if they are eating it.

     

    Any advice would be helpful.

     

    I did a search, but i didnt see what the difference was between all these units or what happens to the cleanup crew as a result of no pollutants in the water.

    Question about refugium

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by walter

    Why not use the 'fuge light as a heat source? That way you can eliminate a heater.

     

     

    Ill have to see if it heats it enough. Right now my sump has a led light (only so I can see what Im doing). I will use a clip on lamp with a 6500 bulb for the fuge. So during the day Ill still have to use the led light. After 8 I can use the 6500 light.

     

    BTW. how deep is deep? 3" deep enough?

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