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schulzjp

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Posts posted by schulzjp

  1. So it looks to me like the big bonus is that by using the WXM module you will have 100% control the pumps from any location using the web server. If you used the wired version using the VDM or built in dimming feature of the full apex you will not be able to change modes of the pump (reef or lagoon) using the server (although you can still turn it on/off). If this is true is there are reason to connect these pumps to the VDM when they have their own controllers build in or would you not use the VDM and just plug it straight into the outlet?

     

    I also want to confirm that both the wired and wireless MP10 have the configurable modes (reef & lagoon), its just that if you want multiple pumps to run these modes in sync you need the wired version?

  2. Hi,

     

    I'm planning on getting back into the hobby with a 20H display with a 15 gallon sump. I really want to build the stand with plywood only without a 2x4 frame to limit the bulk of the stand. The reason for this is is the display tank and sump have the same footprint. Every stand I have built before had the edges of the tank line up exactly with the edge of the stand so that the weight will be distributed directly to the frame; however, in order to have a sump and display tank with the same footprint, I'm planning on having the tank rest on a 3/4"+ sheet of plywood which lies flat across the top. This means the tank will be smaller than the frame and not be applying its weight directly down onto the frame (if that makes sense). I'm assuming that can hold since many floors are 16" spacing and that handles some good weight, and I'm only planning on a 14" spacing front to back. My concern is of the plywood bowing and the tank falling through. I'm guessing I can cut some slots in the drywall so I can make something like 1x2 or 1x4 joists under the plywood top. Please let me know your thoughts.

  3. I wanted to find out if people are using standard filters or chloramine filters in their Rodi. I recently bought a test kit to check out my water for drinking purposes but the kit does not test for chloramine and I never thought about it until now. I live in Fairfax and would really like to get some input from people using Fairfax Water. I plan on getting back into the hobby after a 2 year break from a disappointing 90 gallon experience so I really want to get it right this time.

     

    I did find this info on the Fairfax Water site (http://www.fcwa.org/water/faq.htm) so it makes me think I should get chloramine filters:

     

    17. Do I need to treat the tap water in any way before I place fish in an aquarium?

     

    Fairfax Water uses chlorine for disinfection purposes, which can be harmful to fish if not dechlorinated prior to placing fish in it. Fairfax Water utilizes two types of chlorine, free chlorine and chloramines (chlorine and ammonia mixture). Chloramines are normally used July - March, and free chlorine is generally used April - June. Free chlorine and chloramine dechlorination is performed differently. Chemical additives with directions for dechlorinating either free chlorine or chloramine from water for use in fish tanks or ponds are available at pet/fish supply stores.

  4. Looking good. One question though, how does the backwards drywall look in person? Have you finished mudding and painting it? I'm guessing you did that so you could have the green board facing the moisture. Do you think a plastic vapor barrier behind the drywall would have been sufficient so that you could have it face forward and keep the tapered edge available for taping? Just curious because I've never thought about the impact of an in-wall tank being so close to drywall.

  5. I am planning to get back into the hobby with a 30-40 gallon tank. Are there any issues keeping gobies, blennies, dartfish and dragonets together? I think most of them will fight others that look like themselves, so I do not want to encouter this (especially if i get a dragonet down the road once my tank if very well established and my fuge is a pod factory!).

     

    Would I have fights occuring with this stocklist?

     

    Firefish

    Mandarin Dragonet

    Watchman Goby

     

    (I may not go with a blenny, becaues I'd like to consider a clam in the future and it sounds like most will pick at it)

  6. just curious why you wouldn't do 3 or 4 t5?

     

    just because of $$$

     

    2 PC bulbs = ~$50

    4 T5 bulbs = ~$80

     

    Also, 4 bulb T5 fixture will cost like twice as much as a 2 bulb PC fixture.

     

    I also worry about frying them. I had 7 t5's over a 90 (with ice cap ballasts) and it seemed to fry my corals.

     

    I dont know how many t5's would be equivalent to two pcs. I was thinking two t5s would be on par with two PCs, even with 37% less watts, simply because of the reflectors. *on second though maybe 3 would be needed :unsure: . I've never put lights on a tank only 12" tall so that made me think i dont want to many t5's.

  7. I wanted to see if people think I am getting to my bioload max. Here is my curent fishlist:

     

    1 Kole tang

    1 Yellow tang

    2 clowns (true/false? idk)

    1 Lyretail Anthias

    1 Six-line wrasse

    1 Cleaner wrasse

    1 Watchman Goby

     

    Here is a list of what I still want, but im afraid to have to large of a bioload.

     

    2 more anthias, royal gramma, another goby, a blenny. I was thinking I can get away with adding the royal gramma and a blenny. What do you think?

  8. Im using a Mag7 for my return. I do want coraline to grow but there is only a little in the display.

     

    I have rocks covered with it in my fuge so i was hoping it will transfer to the display eventually. I dont want those rocks in my display though, because they are covered in gsp and I dont want that on my rockwork.

     

    Thanks for the compliments.

  9. I am considering moving some of the rock from my old tank into my new tanks fuge. Are there any consequences to putting rock with coral into my fuge? The rock has gsp and yellow polyps on it. I assume the fuge's light can not support gsp and yellow polyps, but will die off mess with my water parameters?

  10. What are peoples opinions on tank size for anthias? I saw that live aquaria recommends 125, but Im skeptic on this. I have seen a single anthias in a 40 tank with no problem. I have also read that you need atleast 75 gallons to keep more than one. So i just wanted to see what people think.

     

    Id like to put three in a 90 gallon. Also, if i put 3 females in there, what is the chance of one turnign into a male (trying to get out of paying the extra $$$ for the male, haha).

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