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MOT

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    48 gallon mr aqua rimless for sale plus GLA CO2 system

    in General Discussion

    post-1628-0-39050500-1368468539_thumb.jpg

     

    Tank plus stand for $275

     

    Top of the line CO2 system with 10lb tank. $275

    http://greenleafaquariums.com/complete-co2-systems/primo-co2-system.html

     

    Diffuser... included

    http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-diffusers/atomic-diffuser-55.html

     

    4 bags of aquasoil (9L) $70

    http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_12_21&products_id=680

     

    300 watt Hydor-eth inline heater $40

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3743+11369&pcatid=11369

     

    If someone buys all of this stuff I will throw in the driftwood pictured for free (cost me $100 + shipping)

     

    I also have a 33 gallon long 48"x13"x12" aquarium for sale $40

     

    also for sale 48" t5 fixture with 2-3 month old bulbs (2)10k, (2) actinic ~$175

    http://www.aquacon.com/T5Lighting_DeepBlueSolarExtreme.html

     

    Everything but the 33 long and the t5 fixture are brand new. I built the frame of a stand for the 33 long which will hold the tank but it needs to be skinned/trimmed out. It is a nice stand because it is 40" tall so that this shallow tank will be at eye level. Here is a picpost-1628-0-74020300-1368470188_thumb.jpg

     

    Stand is free. I am only getting rid of this stuff because I am moving to Texas

    Loud Drain, Please help

    in General Discussion

    I think I've got it. I'm gonna try this when I get home from work... So my drain is goes straight down into the sump... I'll put 90 degree elbow as it enters the sump... run that for a few inches... then put a t-junction in it. An open end going strait up and an open end going into my filter sock. I saw some other people doing this on some other websites and were getting good results. This should allow the bubbles to be vented out.

    Loud Drain, Please help

    in General Discussion

    Hey all, I am very proud to say I have plumbed my tank and have no leaks and it is very functional. HOWEVER... it is kinda loud. The whole thing is soft plumbing. I think the bubbles that are coming out of the drains are making the sound. When I put my hand under the drain it helped a lot. The drain does go below the water level in the sump. Another thing that is making noising is the anti-siphon hole in the return, it is producing a piddling sound. Anybody have any ideas as to quieting either of these noises? thanks, Tom

    Bubbles in my silicone!!!!!

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by MOT

    alright I don't know if this picture is gonna show up but if it doesn't check it out in my gallery... its the only one.gallery_1628_486_15369.jpg

     

    I talked to an oceanic representative and the retailer. The retailer is going to have me a new one by tuesday. The oceanic rep said that these things are usually just cosmetic. I don't think I could sleep at night if I didn't do something about this. What do you think?

    Bubbles in my silicone!!!!!

    in General Discussion

    I bought the tank brand new in august. I have already contacted the lfs and oceanic and am awaiting replys. These holes look so uniform it looks like they could be a part of the manufacturing. I took a couple pics hopefully they come out, I will post them as soon as i figure out how.

    Bubbles in my silicone!!!!!

    in General Discussion

    So after I put about 60 gallon in my new oceanic 156 and turned on a metal halide I saw that there is a little circle where I could see the glass of the perpendicular pane. It's actually not that small its about the size of the diameter of my pinky. There is another identical one on the other side of the tank in the same spot except I can't see through to the perpendicular pane but there is a noticeable pocket. I am about to lose my mind. I will call my lfs tomorrow and see if I can get a new one.

    Any body have any scrap 3/8 acrylic?

    in General Discussion

    I think that I have solved the problem with this hanger i found. The tank is now completely level. Now I just need to fill in as many shims as I can in between the four corners to distribute the weight. I put 20 gallons of water into the tank before I realized that it wasn't level so I have been lifting up the extra 160 lbs plus the weight of the tank and stand in order to put these shims in... I am strong like bull. My back kinda hurts though. Thanks anyway

    How big of a piece you need?

    Any body have any scrap 3/8 acrylic?

    in General Discussion

    I am trying to shim my tank and the furthest corner needs to be shimmed 3/8 of an inch. I have been using composite shims I bought from home depot but they only get to be 1/4 inch. I was thinking that acrylic would be a good shim. Anybody have some scraps I could use? thanks, Tom

    Changing R.O. membrane

    in General Discussion

    I made about 100 gallons with my RO unit then I didn't use it for about 4 Months. The manual recommends that if you don't use it for more than 30 days, you should take out the membrane and store it in a refrigerator inside a ziplock bag with some water in it. Is this necessary? Should I buy a new membrane? Thanks again guys, Tom

    Plumbing for Worry Warts

    in Do It Yourself

    Basically, yes. While there is a lot that can be be said about the pros and cons of various plumbing options, here's a simple step-by-step that will get you up and running:

     

    To screw your bulkheads in place, you want the rubber washer on the inside and the nut on the outside. It is the compression of the washer between the bulkhead and the glass which creates the seal. It should be a little more than hand tight if possible, but don't go overboard. If it drips a little you can always tighten it a bit more later on, but if you make a mistake in the other direction it can be harder to fix. ;)

     

    The inside of the part of the bulkhead that is now sticking outside the tank is probably threaded. If not post back here and let me know. I think AGA uses 3/4 " returns and 1 " drains. These numbers refer to the inside diameter of the pipe used. The actual holes will be larger. The importance for you is that you know what type of tubing and fittings to buy. I think you will need one 1" Male Hose barb adapter, and one 3/4" male hose barb adapter to start. You can get these at Lowes (not most HDs) but so you know what you are looking for see here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/75...s-MNPT-x-Insert. If you are still using Eheim 1260s for the returns they should be 3/4" output also, so all you need to do is screw on 3/4" threaded ball valve (like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/79...my-Ball-Valves) and then another 3/4" male hose barb adapter, then connect the tubing and you will be all set. An easy option is the black corrugated tubing usually found in the pond section. It seals really well on the hose barb fittings (better than vinyl tubing IME) and is fairly resistant to crimping.

     

    It can and does get a lot more complicated than that, but for your purposes right now I don't think it needs to. To get a good seal with threaded fittings, you can use teflon tape (found in the plumbing section), or just put a little bit of aquarium silicone on your finger and smear it around the threads before screwing them in place.

     

    One last thing -- about the water on the floor. Generally speaking even the most egregious plumbing screw ups will only result in an amount of water equal to the contents of your sump spilling on to the floor. The exception to this is to make the mistake of placing the outlet of your return line at the bottom of your tank. Remember that the return line will turn into a reverse siphon as soon as power is cut to the pumps, so the water level will drop to the level of the outlet(s) on the return line(s). Keep these lines no more than an inch or two below the surface of your water and you will sleep well at night.

     

    If you need any help, shoot me a PM. I live in Annandale and may be able to stop by sometime on the way home from work or on the weekend.

    The part of my bulkheads that will stick into my stand actually already have barbed endings. So I guess I just need to buy some flexible tubing to fit onto the barbs. THe manual that came with the overflow kits has the correct diameter tubing. Do you think I should try to clamp those tubes onto the barb? I am especially wary on the returns. 500 gph I think might cause those tubes to come off the barbs? Any thoughts? Also I was impressed you remembered that I was planning to use eheims. Did you end up using eheims yourself? How did they work for you? Thank you so much for your help. -Tom

     

    Basically, yes. While there is a lot that can be be said about the pros and cons of various plumbing options, here's a simple step-by-step that will get you up and running:

     

    To screw your bulkheads in place, you want the rubber washer on the inside and the nut on the outside. It is the compression of the washer between the bulkhead and the glass which creates the seal. It should be a little more than hand tight if possible, but don't go overboard. If it drips a little you can always tighten it a bit more later on, but if you make a mistake in the other direction it can be harder to fix. ;)

     

    The inside of the part of the bulkhead that is now sticking outside the tank is probably threaded. If not post back here and let me know. I think AGA uses 3/4 " returns and 1 " drains. These numbers refer to the inside diameter of the pipe used. The actual holes will be larger. The importance for you is that you know what type of tubing and fittings to buy. I think you will need one 1" Male Hose barb adapter, and one 3/4" male hose barb adapter to start. You can get these at Lowes (not most HDs) but so you know what you are looking for see here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/75...s-MNPT-x-Insert. If you are still using Eheim 1260s for the returns they should be 3/4" output also, so all you need to do is screw on 3/4" threaded ball valve (like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/79...my-Ball-Valves) and then another 3/4" male hose barb adapter, then connect the tubing and you will be all set. An easy option is the black corrugated tubing usually found in the pond section. It seals really well on the hose barb fittings (better than vinyl tubing IME) and is fairly resistant to crimping.

     

    It can and does get a lot more complicated than that, but for your purposes right now I don't think it needs to. To get a good seal with threaded fittings, you can use teflon tape (found in the plumbing section), or just put a little bit of aquarium silicone on your finger and smear it around the threads before screwing them in place.

     

    One last thing -- about the water on the floor. Generally speaking even the most egregious plumbing screw ups will only result in an amount of water equal to the contents of your sump spilling on to the floor. The exception to this is to make the mistake of placing the outlet of your return line at the bottom of your tank. Remember that the return line will turn into a reverse siphon as soon as power is cut to the pumps, so the water level will drop to the level of the outlet(s) on the return line(s). Keep these lines no more than an inch or two below the surface of your water and you will sleep well at night.

     

    If you need any help, shoot me a PM. I live in Annandale and may be able to stop by sometime on the way home from work or on the weekend.

    The part of my bulkheads that will stick into my stand actually already have barbed endings. So I guess I just need to buy some flexible tubing to fit onto the barbs. THe manual that came with the overflow kits has the correct diameter tubing. Do you think I should try to clamp those tubes onto the barb? I am especially wary on the returns. 500 gph I think might cause those tubes to come off the barbs? Any thoughts? Also I was impressed you remembered that I was planning to use eheims. Did you end up using eheims yourself? How did they work for you? Thank you so much for your help. -Tom

    Plumbing for Worry Warts

    in Do It Yourself

    HAHAHA! I was actually kinda pissed when I first read this? I take a lot of pride in my aquarium knowledge, just not my plumbing knowledge. Some of my friends call me fish tank tom :) They also joke that I am like an old man being so into aquariums only being 24. They said that spending all this money on my new 156g is like my midlife crisis corvette. maybe you should start cat maintenance company with that kind of advice ;) kidding. I did say i was open to criticism for being wimp or did i say *****? hahaha

     

    Maybe you should get a cat. :biggrin:

    Plumbing for Worry Warts

    in Do It Yourself

    Thanks for the mostly encouragement. I'm sure I can do this. if i make a mess than at least I tried. Another member contacted me and said he might be able to come over and help out. I'll try and take pics.

    Scientists Discover Fish in Act of Evolution in Africa

    in General Discussion

    I think the author uses the word species liberally throughout this article. I am pretty sure that two member of a genus become separate species once they can no longer reproduce together and create viable offspring. The title says that scientists have discovered fish in "act of evolution", and I think that adaptation might be considered an "act of evolution". whatever that means. He might have been better titled; "Scientists' discovery illustrates the evolutionary process" or better yet "an "act of microevolution". I think his title catches one's attention, which is generally the purpose of titles in these kinds of websites. Did you guys read the comments below the article?!? pure ignorance

    Plumbing for Worry Warts

    in Do It Yourself

    Hey guys, It seems to me like plumbing a drain and a return using the standard AGA megaflow kit is easy for all of the people in this club that post their tank builds. I guess you have to screw your bulkheads into place and connect some tubing, make sure that you place a ball valve somewhere on your return line, and thats it. However I am really scared to do it myself. Does anyone have any advice on the matter? or no of any really thorough instructions i could use. I really don't want to mess this up and end up with a ton of water on the floor. Thanks for any and all advise and criticism for being a wimp.

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