Laurie
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Posts posted by Laurie
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2 years ago I retired and started traveling a lot. So I decommissioned my 125 gal reef tank of 20+years. All the equipment has been in dry storage since. I’m certain that I won’t be getting back into the hobby and now need to find a home for all or it is going in the dumpster. Some have a lot of hours on them but worked fine when I decommissioned them. Some are barely used or even never used.
I had made donations in the past to schools through Wamas members that sponsored tanks. I would like to do that again, but don’t know who to contact. Can anyone hook me up with whomever does that sort of thing now?
Here’s a sample of what I have.
Nice pieces of coral rock for aquascaping, Never used Bio Balls, Canister Filter, 2 RO filter 4 stage systems, 1/2hp dropin Chiller, Iwaki and PanWorld pumps, unopened Tropic Marin Pro reef salt, 20gal refugium, Sump, VHO ballasts. Lots of other maintenance stuff.
FYI, I live near Frederick, MD.
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When all is going well I spend 5minutes a day.
1 hr a week on water change and various maintenance
an extra 1hr monthly when I go swimming( cleaning the viewing surfaces)
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I don't have the space to store more water. No extra shoe closets.
It's been 5 days since the overdose. Nothing died. In fact some corals look better. Guess the extra calcium helped. What I ended up doing was a total 70 gal water change over a 12 hr period. 25 gal of RO and 45 gal of tap water (well water). Got the salinity back to normal and dropped the Ph .8. Kept the lights off and the next morning it was almost normal.
I didn't want to change things to rapidly, but I also didn't want the corals to be in a high Ph, low salinity environment any longer than necessary.
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Ya, it probably would be a good idea to be able to make water faster.
I have to say that this morning everything looks really good. Corals are happy, Fish are happy, and the Ph has dropped to 8.42. Still high, but manageable.
Thanks for all comments
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Ok, I got the link. Thanks Orion. It is very helpful.
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I'm bad. Haven't checked the alk or calc in a while. My alk test kit is dead. So can't check that until I get a new one tomorrow. I have gotten the salinity back to normal. Decided to use my tap water to do water changes. It is well water. Hope that won't create a whole new batch of problems. Doing 10 gal changes every hr.
I have shrooms, GSP, Frogspawn, Candy cane, leathers, ORA, acan, blasto . Most are closed up. Tangs, chromis, clowns, cardinals, shrimp, crabs. Fish seem ok. Turned the lights off for now.
If I used soda water and vinegar, what kind of mixing and dosing should I do. Am I better off trying that or continuing to do frequent small water changes?
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I just discovered that my kalkwasser drip has been running all day. The Ph was at 9.52. Salinity at 1.022 Normal parameters are Ph 8.07-8.11 Salinity 1.025. My system is 200 gal total. I have 25 gal of RO water so did that much of a water change but it didn't help much. Came down to 9.30. Takes me 24 hrs to make 25 gal of RO.
I need to find some way to get the Ph down without having to do massive water change. That will take too long.
I fear Total Loss.
Any suggestions?
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I have used Joes juice to eradicate Majano anemones. It works great. squirt it in their mouth and they shrivel up.
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I solved most of my excess algae problems by installing a refugium. The macro algae and extra lighting helps to eliminate algae growth in my display tank.
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Wow, this is right on time. I needed to freshen up the outside and repair a couple of inside scratches on my tank. Thanks for the tutorial
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^^^ Tank has a complete cover on it. Pics from the recroom below & thanks for the compliments. One is the moonlights ( 7-Royal Blues at 5% amps) & other is all lights on, most turned way down.
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Thanks, 135 gal
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Got it finished, up & running, pics:
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The dimmable drivers range from 5% amps to 100% (1.0 amp) but even at 5% they're still pretty bright. I'll do on/off switches if it becomes an issue.
Got the box totally finished over the weekend. Now just have to construct a new hood frame to hang it on & it will be ready to go in.
Pic of the finished box:
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Got it mostly wired today, tested things. I'm surprised how little range of adjustment is in the dimmers, they don't seem to dim down much. Ran out of a couple colors of wire so I'll complete the primary wiring tomorrow.
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LEDs glued to the heat sink, have let the thermal adhesive set overnight & will start soldering tomorrow.
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Got the box coated in urethane, major components installed. You can see the fan/LED heat sink in the upper right. I have the pics on my Comcast page & I use IMG tags all over the net. Just wont paste the url here. Oh well you guys will have to clicky on the thumbnail.
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Not sure what was going on with the tags, may have been an issue with windows clipboard, just would not paste the url. Will try again on the next update.
Thanks for the feedback
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Here's the box mocked up with power supplies, drivers & fans. Tomorrow the 72 in heat sink will have the pressurized fan installed along with hangers to attached to the old light set up over the tank. Will keep adding to this as progress in made,
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Today the chassis box for the controls/power supplies grew out of the work bench.
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Here's the drivers mounted to the heat sink
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Looks like IMG tags are not turned on so I'll post one pic per replay.
I re-purposed a heat sink from a 1970s stereo amplifier to use with the drivers.
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Been wanting to begin converting from VHOs/T-5s to LEDs on my 135 gal display tank. While discussing pros & cons of various brands, setups etc on here there was interest in a build thread so here we go.
I decided to get most of the stuff from Steve's LEDs because I like their square tube heat sink with pressurized cooling fan. It will be 63 LEDs on a 72 in long heat sink in 6 colors each dimmable separately & a batch of royal blues as moonlights also dimmable.
Last week the parts arrived.
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My starting point is 2:1 RoyalBlue and Neutral White. But I want to be able to adjust to enhance colors from certain corals. So I am considering adding blue, cyan, green, red, cool and warm white, UV and moonlighting. In looking at spectrum graphs, there is overlap from some colors. Like warm white will give me red, yellow and green. But it may be too white. So it may be better to do a few of the individual colors instead.
Looking for contact to donate used equipment
in General Discussion
Since I'm no longer a Wamas member, I can't access threads that are member only. If you are interested in coming to see what I have, please contact me via my email addresses.
4bigpaws@comcast.net