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$20 Feed timer


dandy7200

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In case you don't know what it's for......It will turn off your return pump while you feed and then turn it back on automatically for you. Useful for absent minded, easily distracted people like me.

 

Start with this.

 

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then pull cover off (I drilled out the screws because I didn't have a small enough star drive bit)

 

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Then drill out two more screws to get to this piece in the middle. Now if you look carefully at the white dial you can see a notch on the right side. This is where the metal spring normally sits. I have already flipped it at this stage to take measurements. You can also see that the sping in this position closes the circuit (on) rather than the normal way when it is sitting in the slot is open (off).

 

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CAREFULLY use a razor blade to trim off most of the dial except where it was resting in the closed (on) position.

 

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TBC..........

 

Now put er back together the same way it came apart. I had to use some supa glue and gorilla tape since I drilled out my screws.

 

Then I put it in a box and cut a extention cord in half and wired it like so.............

 

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Slap the cover and stuff on it................

 

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Yes it say's off when the pump is really on. But hey the timer is acurate wadda ya want? :why:

 

Finished product. By using the extention cord rather than splicing a pump wire you can plug in whatever you want.

 

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Hanging on my 29.

 

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I'll probably drill a hole to run the cords through so it looks nice and neat when done.

 

Just thought I'd share with ya'll. :biggrin:

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Alright now the relay version (no cutting or drilling required). The same relay you guys used to build those nifty battery backups (my next project).

 

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The first one only worked 80% of the time. This one actually works 100% of the time but, now its a $25 FEED TIMER :biggrin:

 

Dan

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Interesting idea and something I'd love to build. I need to study the picture when I'm more alert though so I can figure out the flow through the relay.

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Using a 120VAC coil, you would wire the neutral from the wall to one side of the relay. You would wire the hot to one side of the TIMER and the OUTPUT of the timer to the other side of the relay coil. This means that when the TIMER is on (making contact) the relay coil is energized.

 

The relay will have 3 sets of contacts Normally Open (NO) and Normaly CLosed (NC). and COMMON.

 

You would wire the HOT from the timer to one COMMON and the Neutral to the other COMMON. (we want to switch the neutral also, just to be safe). You would wire the pump that you want controlled to the NC (normally closed) contacts. That is, the HOT lead from the pump to the NC contact on the HOT side of the relay and Neutral from the pump to the Neutral side of the relay... Remember this is a double pole relay meaning it is basically 2 independent switches controlled by one coil and we want to switch the hot and neutral just to be safe.

 

You don't need to hook anything to the NO contacts (unless you want something to come on when the pump is off).

 

When the coil is idel (the timer is not running), the contacts remain shut and the pump runs as expected. When you set the timer, it energizes the coil and pulls the contacts over to the NO side, breaking the NC connection and turning off the pump.

 

I hope that makes sense.

 

Dan

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How much to make me one? Or at least oversee me making it. Definitly not trying to burn my house down. :smokin:

 

I don't mind giving you a hand it's actually much easier than all the jumble jamble relay electrical talk. If you really want the safe and easy route they do sell them premade like this (I just like to tinker). They are $32 plus shipping and you still need to add the extention cord and the gang box and cover (I also hate paying more for something I can easily make).

Heres a link.

http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/infdencointi21.html

Its the FD32HW.

 

Dan

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This is GREAT! I'm going to make one of these asap!

 

 

Thats great. I STRONGLY RECOMEND the relay version as it has proven 100% reliable thus far. And it is actually easier and quicker.

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I just bought the timer that is NC when the timer is off, and NO when the timer is on. No mod needed to the timer. I have to look, but the brand looks like the same as yours though...

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I just bought the timer that is NC when the timer is off, and NO when the timer is on. No mod needed to the timer. I have to look, but the brand looks like the same as yours though...

 

 

Yep, that's one way to do it. I provided the link to the one you probably have above. Did you find one local?

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oops, missed the link.

 

It was the same brand, in a HD or lowes. Think Lowes ? I returned the first when I found the opposite one I needed.

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oops, missed the link.

 

It was the same brand, in a HD or lowes. Think Lowes ? I returned the first when I found the opposite one I needed.

 

 

I went to lowes looking for one and when I couldn't find it decided to DIY. I had to have one RIGHT NOW! So much for the patient reefkeeper :lol:

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  • 1 month later...

I assume a reef controller could essentailly preform the same functions right?

 

 

MY REEFKEEPER DOES

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No problems, works 100% of the time.

 

Yes, a $300 controller can perform this function and does on my tank that has one, this tank does not have a controller, just my wife who feeds the tank every night. It is simple and non gadgety for her pleasure.

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I was gonna make one for the seahorse tank so I could spot feed gorgonians. Just wanted to make sure everything was still going good. My last few diy projects have been a lot of tweeking this and that.

 

Thanks!

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  • 11 months later...

You making another one of these? If so, I'll buy the extra equipment so I can learn how to make one too.

 

Actually I just needed to read myself explain the relay circuit for another project :rollface:

 

I'm pretty sure I still have this in a drawer somewhere. I haven't used it since I broke down my old 29. $10 and it's yours if you want it :)

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awesome project to drag up. some where i have these pics saved on my other laptop from when this thread first came out I was worried about it getting lost.

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You don't need to hook anything to the NO contacts (unless you want something to come on when the pump is off).
This time add in a 4wt night light or LED to indicate pump(or other device condition) visually :>)
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This time add in a 4wt night light or LED to indicate pump(or other device condition) visually :>)

 

 

It is for my Hayward actuated ball valve that controls the return to the tank from the sump. If it is closed (off) the tank level will siphon about 3". I may however need a light on the coil so that the ACIII sees the low power draw of the relay. Anyone ever switch a relay with the Neptune? I mean the DC8 is pretty much just relays anyway so I don't think it will be an issue.....

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