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Spectrapure CSPDI-AF RODI system question.


Tommy

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Hi!  I just got a RODI system used from a friend of mine last night and have a few questions.  The system is a Spectrapure CSDI-AF 90gpd and it comes with the automatic flush kit.  Do I plug in the flush kit all the time or only when I want to flush it?  Also what Am I supposed to do when its time to flush besides plug it in and for how long ?  The unit comes with the 3 line TDS meter and when making water last night I can only get the RO water at 4 and DL water at 0,  this is after changing out all new filters and membrane, was I supposed to have it flushed for a while first before start making water to use for the tank ?   Thanks in advance!

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I'm not familiar with an auto flush, but I installed a manual flush that I open from time to time to flush the RO membrane.

The RO filter will never result in 0 TDS. They should have a published rejection rate that typically tops off around 98%. The DI filter should reduce the TDS to 0. What you will find is that the rejection rate varies with water pressure and temp. A TDS of 4 is pretty good out of the RO filter. You will also see that number start high (e.g. 100+) when first open the valve to make water. This is why it is better to make water in larger batches. I installed a flush valve after the RO and before the DI filter to open for about a minute to get rid of this TDS burst. It will help prolong the life of the DI resin.

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3 hours ago, Tommy said:

The system is a Spectrapure CSDI-AF 90gpd and it comes with the automatic flush kit.  Do I plug in the flush kit all the time or only when I want to flush it?

 

It's designed to be plugged in all the time and functions automatically.  The onboard computer will open the valve when you start making water.  This diverts the high-TDS water that initially comes out of the RO membrane.  Otherwise that high-TDS water goes through your DI chamber.  The DI chamber will reduce that water to 0 TDS, but it uses up a lot of resin to do it. 

 

The auto flush also periodically opens while you're making water to flush contaminants off the RO membrane, extending the membrane's life.

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As @Jon Lazar the flush kit is designed to function automatically and should be permanently installed.  This will flush the membrane to help prolong its use.  The RO membrane will remove the majority of contaminants and the DI resin is really meant to polish the water. 

Sounds like you got a nice setup.  Usually people start with basic unit and slowly add on the bells and whistles after realizing they have no idea how well the filter is functioning or the system is producing water slower than expected.

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Thank you ! I think its a decent system.  Im trying to find out of I can install the BRS 150gpd Water Saver upgrade kit to this unit since its 90gpd and BRS recommended this upgrade kit for existing 75gpd RODI system only.  

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I don’t see a problem with the upgrade providing your system runs >50-55psi.  Maybe someone with more experience on your particular unit will chime in.

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On 2/12/2019 at 6:04 PM, Tommy said:

Thank you ! I think its a decent system.  Im trying to find out of I can install the BRS 150gpd Water Saver upgrade kit to this unit since its 90gpd and BRS recommended this upgrade kit for existing 75gpd RODI system only.  

 

You will not be able to use the BRS 150gpd Water Saver kit as it would require that you have 2 - 75gpd membranes. You could however convert your system to a 180gpd system by adding an additional 90gpd membrane. However, the 90gpd membranes are expensive and not easily sourced and if it was me, I would convert the system to 2 - 100gpd membranes for the same price as 1 - 90gpd membrane. But since you just installed a new 90gpd membrane there would not be of any benefit in cost to convert to anything else.

 

The only items you will need to convert to 180gpd are: (Please note that the links are for representation and reference only)

IMO, an insanely over-priced membrane - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrapure-90-GPD-Percent-Rejection-Membrane/dp/B016MN05IU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+90+gpd&qid=1550106772&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0  

 

A membrane housing - https://www.amazon.com/FS-TFC-Membrane-Quick-Connect-Fittings-Menbrane/dp/B071DY62J1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+housing&qid=1550106848&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

 

A set of housing clips - https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-membrane-diameter-membranes/dp/B0185DRO66/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ro+membrane+housing+clips&qid=1550106894&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

A bit of 1/4" RO hose - https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-4TU-WHI-Certified-70°F-120PSI-150°F-60PSI/dp/B01MT559ZE/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=1%2F4"+ro+hose&qid=1550106990&s=gateway&sr=8-12

 

Hooking the 2 membranes together is simple but IMO you will have to have at least 55-60psi water entering the first membrane if you want the membranes to be efficient -

 

The waste water from the 1st membrane is fed into the inlet of the 2nd membrane. 

The waste water from the 2nd membrane exits the housing and is directed to through the flow restrictor (NOTE**Only one restrictor is needed**) and is discarded.

If you want to use your flush (Highly recommended), only 1 flush valve is needed and should be plumbed so that the flow restrictor is by-passed when the flush valve is opened.

The product water from both membranes is collected and is fed through the DI.

 

Hope is helps,

Tom

Edited by tom39
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17 minutes ago, tom39 said:

 

You will not be able to use the BRS 150gpd Water Saver kit as it would require that you have 2 - 75gpd membranes. You could however convert your system to a 180gpd system by adding an additional 90gpd membrane. However, the 90gpd membranes are expensive and not easily sourced and if it was me, I would convert the system to 2 - 100gpd membranes for the same price as 1 - 90gpd membrane. But since you just installed a new 90gpd membrane there would not be of any benefit in cost to convert to anything else.

 

The only items you will need to convert to 180gpd are: (Please note that the links are for representation and reference only)

IMO, an insanely over-priced membrane - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrapure-90-GPD-Percent-Rejection-Membrane/dp/B016MN05IU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+90+gpd&qid=1550106772&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0  

 

A membrane housing - https://www.amazon.com/FS-TFC-Membrane-Quick-Connect-Fittings-Menbrane/dp/B071DY62J1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+housing&qid=1550106848&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

 

A set of housing clips - https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-membrane-diameter-membranes/dp/B0185DRO66/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ro+membrane+housing+clips&qid=1550106894&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

A bit of 1/4" RO hose - https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-4TU-WHI-Certified-70°F-120PSI-150°F-60PSI/dp/B01MT559ZE/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=1%2F4"+ro+hose&qid=1550106990&s=gateway&sr=8-12

 

Hooking the 2 membranes together is simple but IMO you will have to have at least 55-60psi water entering the first membrane if you want the membranes to be efficient -

 

The waste water from the 1st membrane is fed into the inlet of the 2nd membrane. 

The waste water from the 2nd membrane exits the housing and is directed to through the flow restrictor (NOTE**Only one restrictor is needed**) and is discarded.

If you want to use your flush (Highly recommended), only 1 flush valve is needed and should be plumbed so that the flow restrictor is by-passed when the flush valve is opened.

The product water from both membranes is collected and is fed through the DI.

 

Hope is helps,

Tom

5

Wow ..  Thank you so much for taking the time out to help me.  I think I will keep it as it is for now and maybe think about changing when its time to change out all the membranes and filters.  Thanks again!

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14 hours ago, tom39 said:

 

You will not be able to use the BRS 150gpd Water Saver kit as it would require that you have 2 - 75gpd membranes.

:thumbsup: nice to know!  I figured because of the modular nature of these units, you could add various components regardless of brand, providing correct fittings were used.

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 nice to know!  I figured because of the modular nature of these units, you could add various components regardless of brand, providing correct fittings were used.
IME, for the most part you can, its only when you are trying to piggyback an RO membrane that the GPD value must match.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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A bit off topic: I recalled reading a thread (I think buckeye hydro) that the 90GPD is actually a re-label of the 75GPD.  75gpd is rated at 50 psi. If you increase your pressure to 60 psi you should get around 90GPD. If you look at the specification for the 90GPD membrane, it's rated at 60 psi.

You can verify your system by measure how long it take to make a gallon of RODI water.

Edited by flooddc
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On 2/14/2019 at 2:08 PM, flooddc said:

A bit off topic: I recalled reading a thread (I think buckeye hydro) that the 90GPD is actually a re-label of the 75GPD.  75gpd is rated at 50 psi. If you increase your pressure to 60 psi you should get around 90GPD. If you look at the specification for the 90GPD membrane, it's rated at 60 psi.

You can verify your system by measure how long it take to make a gallon of RODI water.

Haha, nice business plan!

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