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Equipment Recommendations


MaeganWink

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Hello everyone!

 

To start I wanted to say everyone has been very helpful as I've started my Marine Science class with their tanks. They love them and the organisms are doing well.

 

That being said, next semester starts in January and my class goes from 13 students to 20. I have another 55 gallon tank in storage that I plan on setting up so it'll be about 5 students per tank in terms of management. I'm applying to various grants for funding and I wanted recommendations on equipment. Some equipment is meant for all the tanks to use, such as a RO system, but I also want some equipment specifically for the new tank. I was hoping to start a coral-focused tank, but being new to the hobby and especially green in terms of dealing with coral, I was hoping you guys could let me know what type of equipment I'd be aiming for.

 

So right now I know I'd be trying to get an RO system because buying water isn't cost effective with so many tanks and the chemistry department can't supply me with water anymore.

I was thinking something like this, but let me know if that system seems off:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043FYJ8M/?tag=ezpetcareful-20

 

In terms of other equipment, I heard that coral tanks in particular need things like protein skimmers and such to be successful. I also will obviously need a light that can grow coral, but there are so many brands and types of lights I would greatly appreciate recommendations. 

 

While I'll take all suggestions, also remember that anything I can't get grant money for I'd have to pay for myself, so more budget-friendly options are greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you so much in advance!

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I think think this is a better value for an RODI system   https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html,

 

Lighting depends on what type of corals you intend to keep. If you are going to be hosting softies and LPS you can go with cheap black boxes like these https://www.amazon.com/Lightimetunnel-Aquarium-Upgraded-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B019QAZX9C/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1543417055&sr=1-14&keywords=led+reef+lights+for+coral.

 

My favorite light that I use for most of my frag tanks https://www.amazon.com/OceanRevive®-Arctic-T247-Spectrum-Dimmable-Aquarium/dp/B00YOYD3K2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1543417055&sr=1-7&keywords=led+reef+lights+for+coral. these grow everything.

 

You can also go with a cheap HO T5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KM19GB6/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9ddc66f6-9fc0-49ff-b2fa-06a39d9859e6&pd_rd_wg=Aoef0&pf_rd_r=NQX7Q9C1ECW3GR9YDN5E&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00KM19GB6&pd_rd_w=4DG7w&pf_rd_i=t5+grow+lights+for+indoor+plants&pd_rd_r=e2c530a7-4d26-49ed-bb21-37836be379a3&ie=UTF8&qid=1543417482&sr=1   You will need to change the bulbs every few years. You will also need to buy correct reef bulbs the bulbs that ship with these are not meant to grow corals. 

 

For a 50 gal tank you can use a sump or a HOB filter. I am assuming these get broken down at the end of the year.  HOB are easier to setup and maintain. Not sure you will need to buy  protein skimmer right at the start. If you go with softies and keep up with water changes you should be fine.

 

Where are you located? I would be willing to donate easy softies for the class. I would also try and get everything donated or buy it used. You can always upgrade as your needs change. PM me if you have any questions.

 

 

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I'd echo some of what Dan said here.  Depending on what corals you want to keep you'll need cleaner or dirtier water (skimmer or not), you also might need dosers and timers for them, you also might need more or less expensive lights.

 

Maybe a sponsor or one of your grants can keep you supplied with salt mix and RO/DI filter media.  You'll need to replace the media a couple of times per year, and I agree that the one at BRS is a better value, but the AquaFX one is nice too.  I'd actually go with this one https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html because the pressure gauge and TDS meters help you figure out when it's working well.  

 

For a coral-focused tank I'd recommend a 40 gallon breeder which is the best tank you can get at the bi-annual Petco $1/gallon sale.  All panes on those tanks are drillable so you can add an overflow box and a sump.  Then I'd recommend a 20L sump at the same sale ($60 so far), and a used skimmer from our WTS section and some used LED black-box lights and you're in business with a coral tank.  The advantage of the 40 breeder size is that it's 18 inches front to back which gives you more floor-space for aquascape and corals.  A 55 gallon seems good, but it's kind of tall and skinny.  Hard to get light to the bottom and little floorspace to put corals to see the light.

 

Also, don't try to drill the 55 gallon.  They're always tempered and will explode spectacularly.  I keep wanting to pop one as a demo at a WAMAS meeting.  

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49 minutes ago, AlanM said:

  Also, don't try to drill the 55 gallon.  They're always tempered and will explode spectacularly.  I keep wanting to pop one as a demo at a WAMAS meeting.  

Dooooo it..... :clap:

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10 minutes ago, littlelise1985 said:

Dooooo it..... :clap:

 

Heh, maybe if I can get board approval to just buy a 55 gallon before a meeting I will do it. 

 

I periodically ask for a 55g to be donated by someone with a dusty one around, but never get any bites.

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Maegan, Dan provided good feedback.

 

Regarding RO/DI - it's important to know what the rejection ratio is for the RO membrane in these setups. That's important because anything that gets by the RO membrane is left to the DI stage to remove. Some 100gpd membranes are rated at only 90% vice 98% or 99%. That can lead to ten times higher maintenance costs for the 90% rated membrane versus the 99% rated membrane. The BRS setup discloses the rejection ratio while the Amazon listing does not. Make sure that you have a way of connecting it up to your water supply and that you have a way to shut it off automatically so you don't have water on the floor....

 

Regarding lights: When I ran T5's, I'd replace the lamps every 8-12 months. As lamps age, they tend to get dimmer and their spectrum can shift some. Replacing lamps tends to expose the tank to higher light levels again, requiring a week or so of light acclimation. LEDs are easy to source. I've been using them since hobbyists were mostly DIYing them (since there weren't many commercial sources for them yet) with cool white and royal blue LEDs. While I use more expensive Radions over my display, I have been using regular. non-programmable black-box Chinese-made LEDs over my frag tank for the last 7 or 8 years. In that time, I've had two lights fail (typically a burned out LED that's simple to replace, but does require rudimentary technical skill to locate and replace). So, whatever you do, you might plan for one of these types of lights to last 3-5 years before failure.

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What about something like a 60g long (48x24x12 LxWxH)? This could allow for two different types of lighting (i.e. T5 vs LED) on a shallow tank so the lights can remain relatively inexpensive. The shallow depth allows for easy viewing to document changes (e.g. growth, coloration, pests, etc.). Can the students perform water changes or a weekly basis? If so, you could bypass the sump, return pump, skimmer, and dosing pumps/additives all together (though the cost of water and salt mix go up). 

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Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll check out those other RO systems. I honestly don't know what makes one good, so having you guys point things out helps a lot.

 

I will say I am NOT a very DIY person...I tried cutting class to make tops for the current tanks I have (since they don't have any sort of lid) and all I did was cut myself up and not the glass. I'm not sure I'd trust myself to set drill things and other such steps on my own.

 

The students could perform weekly water changes. I would need to get salt, but in theory with an RO system the cost of water would be greatly decreased (It's the school's water bill not mine soo....)

 

The only other issue with not using the 55 tank I have that was donated is I would obviously need to allot money for the different type of tank. @AlanM when is that sale normally at Petco?

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They happen pretty frequently.  I think they're about 4 times per year.  PetSmart has them too.  I don't know how to predict when they'll happen, but we can keep an eye out for when it happens and post up here to let folks know.

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I was talking to someone at the shop where I get my water currently and they suggested using my 55 gallon (since I already have it) and getting a nice canister filter for it. What do you think?

 

Also, I plan on starting with just easier to manage corals, because again, I don't know much about the process and it's meant to be a learning experience for myself and the students. 

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darn it all!

My parents have a 55g tank and stand sitting in storage. The tank is shot (the center brace broke) but it does have an old school coral life t5 fixture on it and some various odds and ends. Only issue is it's in Kentucky and I'm flying home for the holidays!

Had I thought of this thread I would have brought it back with me.

If you're interested I'll try to get it out here at my first opportunity.

-A-a-ron

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On 11/30/2018 at 8:54 AM, MaeganWink said:

I was talking to someone at the shop where I get my water currently and they suggested using my 55 gallon (since I already have it) and getting a nice canister filter for it. What do you think?

 

Also, I plan on starting with just easier to manage corals, because again, I don't know much about the process and it's meant to be a learning experience for myself and the students. 

 

Canister would work ok, maybe.  They aren't recommended for coral tanks because they tend to be nitrate sources.  They don't get cleaned as often because they're inconvenient to break down and clean out, so the doodoo builds up in them with the net result of generating lots of nitrate which eventually generates lots of algae.  

 

They're essentially a big plastic filter sock that you only change out every couple of months.  Also, they don't allow you to renew the water surface (like an overflow does) so it will build up film and limit oxygen transfer if the return is also spraying back underwater.  If it's spraying back above water then you'll get some salt spray and salt creep which doesn't happen in a freshwater tank.

 

Saltwater reef keepers like skimmers because they: 1) remove dissolved organic junk from the water, 2) hold those waste products in a cup outside the water flow path so they don't continue breaking down into nitrate and phosphate after being filtered out, and 3) oxygenate the water without adding bubbles to your tank (and getting salt spray all over your display/lights/etc).

 

A hang-on-back (HOB) skimmer or even a HOB AquaClear (which makes it easy to change out the filter media) would be a better choice than a canister.

 

Anyway, there are a few reasons why most people who run successful reef tank don't use a canister filter and why tanks with overflows installed to carry water to a sump are called "reef ready."

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On 12/3/2018 at 8:40 PM, ImGoingCoastal said:


 

Don't worry about it, I really appreciate the thought!

 

If in the future you ever go home and want to bring back the light, I could surely use it, but I have a 55 gallon tank I'm still finding a use for so I'm not in huge need of another (I don't think? You never know)

 

Thanks for the clarification, Alan! Yeah, definitely sounds like I should avoid a canister. 

 

Also, I found someone who was giving away a 40 gallon tank and a refugium tank. Both have holes already drilled for plumping. I'm going to pick them up this weekend. Perhaps these could work with a sump, like many of you suggested? 

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