Awesome cheato fixture

[bues0022]

I posted about this a few weeks ago looking for help selecting a good fixture for cheato. But, now I have photographic proof that it’s super awesome!

 

I’ve always been leery of Chinese knockoff products on eBay. But, I found a 300W LED (output, I think it draws something like 42W) that kicks serious ass. 

 

UFO 300W fixture made by Vander. They are all over eBay, and go for a variety of prices. Mine was $27 shipped, and I saw it was down to $25 last week. 

 

Proof is in the pudding. I started with a little less than a softball sized chunk of cheato 10 days ago. I harvested it tonight. Probably close to two basketball sized balls could be formed. Half filled a 5 gallon bucket. It essentially completely filled my cheato section of the sump - about a 4 gallon area for cheato, a little rock, and my return pump

 

darn!!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydro-300W-UFO-LED-Grow-Light-4200LM-Lamp-Panel-Full-Spectrum-Plants-Grow-Lamp/142812898266?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Df4d226831d624de1bc5c39bcb18a1465%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D142812898266%26itm%3D142812898266&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aacb1c61e-e92a-11e8-b6b4-74dbd180b8ec|parentrq%3A199d85681670aca48f758e33fff8629e|iid%3A1

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by bues0022

[Origami]

That's great.

 

But I have to ask, the ebay link says it's 50 x 6W LED power which is 300W of power dissipation. How did you get 42W? Did you measure your AC amperage into your fixture?

[bues0022]

There were some other reviews elsewhere on the 'net which discussed actual power consumed vs what it's listed at. So be to perfectly honest, I have absolutely no idea what it's pulling, or what PAR it's actually putting out. You caught me red handed! 

 

All I actually know is that it was cheap, and grows cheato like a boss

[Origami]

32 minutes ago, bues0022 said:

There were some other reviews elsewhere on the 'net which discussed actual power consumed vs what it's listed at. So be to perfectly honest, I have absolutely no idea what it's pulling, or what PAR it's actually putting out. You caught me red handed! 

 

All I actually know is that it was cheap, and grows cheato like a boss

42W would be great if it could turn out that kind of growth. 300W is a lot of power draw and a ton of light/heat, so a lot of growth would be expected. The difference is that one would cost about $15 a year to run 8 hours a day, while the other would be closer to $110/year to operate on a similar schedule.

 

It looks like there are 48 LEDs that I can count in the fixture. If they were 6W LED's, you could get close to 300W. If they were the more common 3W LEDs, then you'd be looking at about 150W if run at full current. (In fact, the same housing is used to market a 150W version of the light in the UK, the US and through Ali Express in China based on the stamped part number on the back.) But, if they were 1W LEDs (also really common in cheaper lamps, it's more likely to be a 50W lamp. As it turns out, the manufacturer on Ali Express claims the lamp has 150W of LED chips, but consumes 50W of power. If true, the LEDs are running well below capacity which could make them last longer. If they're using 1W LEDs, then they'd be cheaper, would run closer to full output and therefore hotter, and not last as long. 

 

It would be interesting to put a kill-a-watt meter on that thing because it's giving you some great growth!

[D805]

I have the 150-watt version that I have yet to hook up. Looking forward to the results.

[bues0022]

Whelp - all good things must end. My light bit the dust. It may not be completely toast, but it’s basically a slow strobe - turns on for one second, then off for one second, on for one second (you get the idea). Seems like a ballast problem to me, but I’m a mechanical engineer not an electrical guy, so me and electrical components don’t get along too well. If anyone has great ideas to tell me what to look at in this thing I’m all ears. Otherwise I’m back to square one looking for a new cheato light. 

[Geoffwehler]

I’ve found this easy as pie. For macro.


Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

65W Equivalent BR30 Full Spectrum LED Plant Grow Light Bulb

https://www.homedepot.com/p/302049327


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[Geoffwehler]

I have three in my sump and two on a separate refugium.


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[Origami]

2 hours ago, bues0022 said:

Whelp - all good things must end. My light bit the dust. It may not be completely toast, but it’s basically a slow strobe - turns on for one second, then off for one second, on for one second (you get the idea). Seems like a ballast problem to me, but I’m a mechanical engineer not an electrical guy, so me and electrical components don’t get along too well. If anyone has great ideas to tell me what to look at in this thing I’m all ears. Otherwise I’m back to square one looking for a new cheato light. 

The periodicity makes it sound like it's the driver (ballasts go with HID and fluorescent lamps). These designs are fairly straightforward - especially if it's a non-dimming light. It's pretty much going to be 

 

AC_in > Switch > Driver > LED string

 

Single string or multiple drivers in parallel. Unfortunately, the drivers are almost always self-contained, sealed modules. If it's that, it's probably not worth trying to fix.

 

However, there's another possible option - a broken LED connection somewhere in the string that open-circuits when an LED is on and gets hot. Then, upon cooling, the connection closes to turn the LED back on. The cycle then repeats. If this were the case, you might be able to identify the culprit connection by applying pressure to each LED one by one until the pattern of onn-off behavior changes. Once the affected LED is identified, repair its solder connections. Also, check any wiring connections for similar issues.

 

In any case, it sounds like an infant failure since the unit is so new. I'd write your supplier and let them know the unit has failed and try to get them to replace it. No harm in reaching out and asking them to make it right.

[bues0022]

8 hours ago, Origami said:

The periodicity makes it sound like it's the driver (ballasts go with HID and fluorescent lamps). These designs are fairly straightforward - especially if it's a non-dimming light. It's pretty much going to be 

 

AC_in > Switch > Driver > LED string

 

Single string or multiple drivers in parallel. Unfortunately, the drivers are almost always self-contained, sealed modules. If it's that, it's probably not worth trying to fix.

 

However, there's another possible option - a broken LED connection somewhere in the string that open-circuits when an LED is on and gets hot. Then, upon cooling, the connection closes to turn the LED back on. The cycle then repeats. If this were the case, you might be able to identify the culprit connection by applying pressure to each LED one by one until the pattern of onn-off behavior changes. Once the affected LED is identified, repair its solder connections. Also, check any wiring connections for similar issues.

 

In any case, it sounds like an infant failure since the unit is so new. I'd write your supplier and let them know the unit has failed and try to get them to replace it. No harm in reaching out and asking them to make it right.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll dig around tonight and see what happens. I did contact the guy on ebay - they are completely out. At least they refunded my money though.