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3D Printed Neptune Apex Classic Bracket


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Many years back, I picked up a 3D printer (just to explore the technology) - an Afinia H479, but the workflow was disjoint and (affordable) tools were not great, so I abandoned working my way up the learning curve. Since then, (affordable/free) tools have much improved and an integrated workflow has developed making ascending the learning curve much more tolerable. At the end of last November, I picked up another printer and began to learn Fusion 360 (for design) and Cura (for slicing).

 

One recent project was to build brackets for my skimmer's two Waveline DC6000's and another for my Apex Classic. Neptune provides three recesses on the back of the Apex for hanging, but I wanted a bracket where I didn't have to mess with precise placement of the screws and, to be honest, was just messing around to build and learn. Here's a rendering of the bracket design (out of Fusion 360) and a first-article printed using PETG plastic:

 

The first image is a rendering out of Fusion 360:

 

gallery_2631296_685_7908.jpg

 

This second image is one of the actual product being test-fitted with my Apex Classic (which wasn't "Classic" when I bought it):

 

gallery_2631296_685_39493.jpg

 

Does anybody else here mess around with 3D printing?

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I used a web based design and print company to print the bushings for Jabao power heads in acrylic vs the ceramic ones that come with the pumps and seemingly impossible to reorder. I believe some of them are still in my last few working pumps. Getting the center hole smooth and perfect was hit or miss. I think bigger things like brackets might be a better use for now

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Are you able to buff out the ridges for a cleaner look? and how sturdy is the printed product?

Different plastics can be post-processed differently. But, this particular bracket is printed at 0.2 mm layer height. A finer resolution is 0.1 mm. Other reefers have printed custom volutes for skimmer pumps. I may try nylon next and try playing with a pinwheel design.

 

ABS can be reflowed in acetone vapor for a very smooth, finished look. I've printed (thus far) in PLA, ABS and PETG. I want to play with nylon which requires a higher temperature. These can be quite durable actually depending upon the material used. Some people are building drones with them, too. There's quite a community of people out there sharing designs these days.

 

You can always print rough and machine for smoother surfaces.

 

Anyway, the technology is pretty cool. I'm just a newb at this point and it's fun to learn something new. Brackets are just a start. I've printed a few upgrades for my printer, for example, to open the door to the higher temperature plastics. 

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Sounds like pretty cool technology. You may never need to buy a new printer. Just keep upgrading it!

Somebody in that community was saying the other day that the things that "makers' make most are parts for their 3D printers.... I've found a few more practical uses thus far. I have a long ways to go yet. I've got very limited exposure to mechanical design and drafting. (Mostly, I've worked with other professionals when I've needed that kind of support for my other work-related projects.)

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Here are a few skimmer things that people have designed using 3D printers (from a simple google search):

 

http://www.yeggi.com/q/protein+skimmer/?s=tx

 

(you get some pretty interesting hits that don't have anything to do with the hobby but which might relate to the word skimmer or protein....)

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very cool Tom.  I have contemplated buying a 3d printer, just not sure how much I would make with it.

 

 

Now I need a 3D printer.  

 

They're fun and so much more affordable than ten years ago. Heck, you can get into them for $300 nowadays. 

 

Workflow is like this 

 

Design >> Slice >> Print  or Download >> Slice >> Print

 

Fusion 360 (made by Autodesk, the people that make AutoCAD) is my design software of choice right now. It is free for non-commercial hobbyists, like me. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube, also. It's pretty powerful and I find it easier to work with than Sketchup. It's cloud-based so your design files are available wherever you are. It can also produce and save 3D STL files which are input into the slicer program. F360 can also directly integrate with Cura and other slicers to smooth out the workflow even more.

 

Cura is the slicer that I use right now. It's free also. A slicer takes the 3D model (described by the STL file) and slices it up into layers and creates a gcode file. Gcode controls the printer, shifting the hotend in 3D space, setting temperatures, etc. The output of the slicer can directly control some printers, send files to the printer, or to a memory card that you can use to plug into some printers. 

 

An alternative to designing is to download 3D models on sites like thingiverse where other "makers" upload and share their projects. I just recently commented on a guy's project where he's designed a skimmer. He's just getting into saltwater, so he's a newb there, but he's clearly well-versed with mechanical design and 3D printing....

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Thanks for providing the brief description of the 3D process.  You did a great job bringing the flow together and making it easy to understand.  While I knew 3D printers were available and affordable, I have not taken the time to research the technology or think about utility. 

 

I went to thingiverse.com and was introduced to the possibilities.  Brackets, clamps, skimmer parts, pump parts...Fabricate replacements for broken components for reefing and the "real world".  

 

The workflow seems simple enough, but I know better.  A learning curve on the system and software, designing a component to spec will take some playing around.  I will be doing more research...Definitely something I will be doing.  If you don't mind, what printer do you have and what materials have you used.


Your thread has peaked my interest.  This is something I can find use for...will definitely be doing more research.

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Check this guy's 3D printed skimmer out. He's in Poland. I've downloaded 71MB of his assembly pictures and it's impressive what he's done. He's got a nice printer setup, too.

 

The printer that I have now is an Anycubic I3 Mega with an Ultrabase. I've recently changed out the hotend for an E3D V6 all-metal hot end so that I could extend the temperature range up to the lower end of nylon without fear of melting the teflon liner that's in the stock V5 hot end. I used to have a different printer - the make/model escapes me at the moment. As it was, I wound up getting the same model back then that Avast Marine picked up. When I moved on to the Anycubic model, I gave my old printer to Justin from Avast.

 

There is a learning curve. There are a lot of parameters that you can adjust that can change print quality and outcomes. But, the printer comes with everything you need to start and even a test print on a memory card. In 30 minutes it's set up and you can start your first print then and there using the 1 kg spool of PLA that comes with the kit. (BTW, you don't want to use PLA for parts used in this hobby - it's biodegradeable and will eventually dissolve away. PLA, in fact, was an early form of biopellet that I experimented with.)

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Another thing that's kind of cool about Fusion 360 is the ability to import 3D models from McMaster-Carr. For example, NPT (national pipe, tapered) threads are somewhat complex and, for now, Fusion 360 does not have the capability to click and apply NPT threads to surfaces. (It has the capability to quickly put in standard and metric (non-tapered) threads, though.) So you can either design your own (beyond me at this point) or borrow them from another component, say, that you download from McMaster-Carr. 

 

So, shortly after getting my printer and while I was learning some Fusion 360 basics, I imported a model of a simple 1" to 3/4" thread-thread PVC adapter and printed it out. (Can you say, "Print a bulkhead on demand?") Here it is with a regular piece of plumbing. The thing is, if I wanted to design a Venturi to fit on a pump that had a threaded inlet, having a threaded part body that I could reuse would make it easier and let me focus on the Venturi design.

 

gallery_2631296_685_42912.jpg

 

And here it is threaded into the commercial off the shelf PVC part. As designed, the tapered threads engage more positively as it goes deeper into the fitting. A perfect, water-tight replacement... except that I printed it in PLA. Now, had I printed it in ABS or PETG, I could use it in water. If solvent-welding were needed, ABS would be the material of choice.

 

gallery_2631296_685_30432.jpg

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Paragon_32's skimmer is awesome.  A real nice piece of engineering; a good deal of thought was put into the production of the skimmer...  Definitely impressive and inspiring.  I too am interested in hearing how it holds up under 24/7 operations.  

 

I love your PVC adapter, and good recommendation about materials used.  Probably a good idea to understand the different materials available and to plan accordingly with the application of the 3D print. 

 

Everywhere I turn, I cannot help but come up with use cases for a printer.  And Thingiverse has a very extensive collection of "Thingies".  I ran across this adjustable float switch bracket, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1070622 .  Can use some small modifications, but another great piece of work.  I do not even have to try to justify the purchase, the ability to design and create is endless...Oh the "things you can think".

 

I need to find time for another hobby.  Fortunately I can eventually dovetail this with my reefing hobby.  More research and planning is needed, I may be reaching out for advice...many thanks.

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This guy has made a small business out of 3D printed objects for aquarists. His site has a few ideas. He uses ABS in all his prints. It's an old-school plastic that takes a little getting used to, but it holds up well.

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