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Plumbing, and maybe running a manifold


YHSublime

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It's been a long time since I've plumbed a tank, want to make sure I have this correct:

 

I'm looking to drop out of my overflow (herbie) two 1" pvc pipes (separate)

One of those pipes will be hooked up to a 1" gate valve (Herbie style)

The pipes will continue down into the stand, and then both will be hooked up to x2 (1") 90 degree elbows.

The PVC will travel across the tank, both tubes, which will then attach to x2 (1") 90 degree elbows.

PVC will continue down into the filter socks from there.

 

Return will be a straight shot 3/4" pvc into a 3/4" 90 degree elbow right into the tank.

 

a1012d97b2c26adf386d18a056ab53ec.jpg

 

Now for running a manifold (which I've never designed before) does that come off the drain, or the return (The return I'm presuming?) In the future I'd like to possibly add a kalk reactor, possibly bio pellets. Should I bother now?

 

Does what I have look like it works?

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BTW, the Eshopps S overflow is rated for about 600GPH, and I'm still looking for a return pump. Any ideas?

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If your gonna run a manifold you can always do the tried and true mag 9.

 

T off where you need to and if still too mich flow have a last one just bleed off back into the sump to keep things moving

 

 

I have my mag 9 on a gate valve turned down a bit with no issues (pump is about 8years old)

 

I've been tempted by dc pumps but just haven't pulled the trigger

 

Key for the overflow is havin it on a gate valve so you can tune full siphon

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If your gonna run a manifold you can always do the tried and true mag 9.

 

T off where you need to and if still too mich flow have a last one just bleed off back into the sump to keep things moving

 

 

I have my mag 9 on a gate valve turned down a bit with no issues (pump is about 8years old)

 

I've been tempted by dc pumps but just haven't pulled the trigger

 

Key for the overflow is havin it on a gate valve so you can tune full siphon

 

Yep, have the gate valve in there. I don't think I have a reason to run a manifold. I need to remind myself: K.I.S.S.

 

The Kalk reactor is attached to auto top off in must setups

 

Which also means manifold is redundant, I can't imagine adding anything else that would make it worth while.

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I’d run a manifold not very hard to build if u wanna add reactors its very easy no need to add any pumps I’d look at a dc pump with controller

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Wouldn't it be better to have the drains drop straight down into the sump and plumb the return across the back (also provide room for your manifold)? 

 

Thought about that. Here's my logic: Gravity on the drains, less work for the return. Not convinced I need a manifold, there's only so much I can run on a 22 gallon!

 

I’d run a manifold not very hard to build if u wanna add reactors its very easy no need to add any pumps I’d look at a dc pump with controller

 

So, if I took Madweazl's advice and did the drains straight down and the return on the other side, would you run unions on either end? What valves do I add for the manifold? How many would you recommend adding?

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Are you incorporating a fuge into the sump? Any baffles? What's layout?

 

You want the skimmer area large enough to accommodate the skimmer (potential upgrades), but you also want the return area to be large enough to account for evap; even with a ATO. Personal preference, but I don't like the ATO constantly turning on.

 

Put a union on the return pump for easy access/cleaning.

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Manifolds are easily expandable, run it along the back to a Tee with a threaded shut off valve. If you ever need to add a manifold can just add as much as you need to that

Really you only need it for however many reactors you run.....biopellet, carbon, go, or if you feed your skimmer that way....

 

For 22gal, I doubt if run any of that but who knows you seem to have had good success with out em

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Here is a small one I made up last night for my new project

 

Let me know if u need a hand man

 

27093079c074073bcd35ba6f86d0b475.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Cool, just trying to figure out what to order, as I imagine I'll wants the parts in advance. 

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Dont use purple primer or ball valves on your manifold. PP looks horrible unless you are extremely careful and know how to use it.

Ball valves generate torque and can sometimes make poorly constructed manifolds leak. Gate valves generate very little torque since you are only moving a wheel.

And finally- if you are going to build a nice manifold, turn the pipes so that it doesn't look like you are advertising for the PVC company.

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Lol very good points made. I love to use gate valves when I can and when in stock.

 

In my 10 years doing pluming and fish tank stuff I’ve never had a pvc manifold leak or ball valve leak. I have had cpvc ball valve stems leak,

 

Just a side note I wish we could do are tanks in copper or stainless. I’m also finishing up classes on glass plumbing for chemical labs

 

Sorry to going on so much lol

 

 

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Edited by linkfalcon
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It’s a pain very hard to keep on work vans

 

 

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I'll bet, but it must look pretty great when it's freshly installed. Gotta get some pictures of that.

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full siphon will be hard to start and maintain with a long horizontal drain run.  In order to convert to full siphon it has to push out all that water.  Easy to do in a vertical pipe, but harder in horizontal. 

 

Also valve should go on sump end (close as possible above the water line in sump) of full siphon pipe, not right under the drain.

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full siphon will be hard to start and maintain with a long horizontal drain run.  In order to convert to full siphon it has to push out all that water.  Easy to do in a vertical pipe, but harder in horizontal. 

 

Also valve should go on sump end (close as possible above the water line in sump) of full siphon pipe, not right under the drain.

 

Noted, thanks!

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