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Just got my triton test back. Have some questions


epleeds

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I have been dealing with STN of various SPS corals within my tank. Not all my corals are affected which confused me. I sent a sample to triton and all my levels looks good except for lithium, aluminum and bromine and iodine.

 

Does anyone see anything that would cause random STN of SPS?

 

75B8560D-2F7B-49A8-B578-EDE50B4B543E_zps

AFB6A8B5-EC7B-4913-971C-65B05BE7928A_zps

7E0E6A1E-03C1-4EB2-8F01-95666BE347DE_zps

49670048-738D-4A56-BB3F-8B97B382A6BA_zps

25A37D8A-5BA0-4480-A378-87A2D13BA35B_zps

489C9FFC-06AB-43B5-AEE4-C251DF07ECB7_zps

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Out of curiosity, do you run ozone on your tank?  

 

RHF has a discussion about how bromine and ozonation can make toxic bromine compounds:

 

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/

 

It's interesting that no iodine was detected at all.  I don't think ICP is able to detect iodine in the levels that we typically would see it in salt mixes, though.  ICP machine manufacturers give their lower detection limit at a factor of 10 higher than the setpoint that Triton quotes according to another RHF article:

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/chemistry

 

Maybe tech has improved since then and the Triton ICP can detect much lower levels, but maybe dose a bit of iodine?

 

No idea about the lithium or aluminum.

 

Is it possible you have flatworms or redbugs or some other kind of SPS pest that are just hard to spot?

 

It could also be a bacterial infection.  Corals get em too and there probably isn't much you could do about it if that was the case.

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Having talked to Ehsan from Triton numerous times, Lithium is high (in general) across North America. It doesn't seem to be an issue, though. Aluminum in high enough doses may be a problem. I think the levels would have to be pretty high for it to become an issue. However, aluminum compounds are also used in certain phosphate removers (e.g. Seachem Phosguard). So if you're using that or a similar product, that may be the source of the aluminum reading.

 

BTW, what was your aluminum reading?

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Al was 7.86. I am not running ozone.

 

I have looked and can't find any bugs. If it's bacterial, is there something I can dose the tank with to kill it?

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(edited)

7.86 ppm or 7.86 ppb?

It's in the first picture 1/2 of the way down. I don't have the symbol in my keyboard

Edited by epleeds
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Sorry, Eric, I can't see the image because it's being blocked here in the office. Can you email it to me?

 

I found this 2003 article by RHF on Aluminum in the Reef Aquarium. 7 ppm would be very high. 7 ppb would be low. The article covers various sources, including foods, salt mixes, and some supplements. 

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His reading is 7.86 ug/l, so 7.86 ppb.

 

Thanks. That's well below toxicity levels for the various invertebrates that RHF listed in his article. 

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All my levels have been constant. It only affects certain SPS. Other are thriving. I need to check my PH. But I dose 2 part. Used to use ESV, now I'm using BRS. Also running RC salt.

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I read on another forum a while back where someone found their mp powerhead was leaching stuff into the water.

 

This is interesting.  I had an old Jebao that the magnet started looking really bad on and eventually it started also leaking voltage.  I tossed it away.  

 

I also had a Neptune probe holder that ended up with a corroded magnet plus an Innovative Marine algae grazer and a TLF Algae clip, both with corroded magnets.  The only magnets in my tank that I've never had problems with are Tunze mounts and Avast probe holders.

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All my levels have been constant. It only affects certain SPS. Other are thriving. I need to check my PH. But I dose 2 part. Used to use ESV, now I'm using BRS. Also running RC salt.

Maybe that change is what may be causing that problem? How often do you dose the best? Throughout the day or once per day?

 

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

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I read on another forum a while back where someone found their mp powerhead was leaching stuff into the water.

Note: Version 1 of the MP40's had a problem with the clearance between the magnet and the cover that was up against the wall. This led to rubbing and wearing away of the watertight coating, and eventual magnet corrosion. (You could tell there was rubbing even before the corrosion set in, because the plastic backing displayed deep, circle-shaped scratches.) A magnet upgrade was offered to fix the problem, free of charge. This was years and years ago. I've never had a problem with magnet corrosion on the MP line since. I've certainly had it with other products, though. I've had failures of Sure-Free magnet casings and an Algae-Free Hammerhead algae scraper (replaced free of charge). 

 

Can you post a link to the powerhead leaching report?

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Easy answer- stop trying to grow the species that have issues and focus on those that don't.

darn. Why didn't I think of that :)

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(edited)

Maybe that change is what may be causing that problem? How often do you dose the best? Throughout the day or once per day?

 

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

I'm on profilux doser, dosing 20 times per day to keep it constant Edited by epleeds
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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2621134Here is the MP40 rusting I had read about. I have had this happen. No problems here but maybe I just caught it in time before metals built up?

Thanks. That's news to me. I've never had that problem and I've been using Ecotech MP's since close to the beginning. I do remember the uncoated magnets - I had some in my spare parts bin when I bought some original MPs from a guy about 10 years ago. Subsequent wet sides had coated magnets and used non-metallic axles, bushings, propellers and nuts. These reports seem to indicate that some design change may have taken place that changed their materials. I'll have to look more closely at some of my more recent pumps (still a few years old).

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Tom I also was leaving it in the vinegar too long to get coraline off. There were a couple times I forgot about it for a couple nights. Probably just finds a micro opening and works it's way in. I also find frag rack magnets rust here and there. Still no problems but I have over 300g in the whole system with sump and tubing

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Eric, exactly what sps corals are dying? How are they dying, rtn, stn, base up, tips first, peeling from unlight areas or light areas first? A picture of the dying areas would help.

Have you introduced any new sps that died after you added them to the tank?

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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