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Jerel's ELOS Midi - GHL Controlled


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I wasn't kidding when i mentioned "a new tank or two" from my first post. I'm starting to acquiring the equipment for my frag system  :) I just need to make a decision on which tank to get... Roughly 40 gallons.

Skimz will be my brand of choice for equipment.

Skimz CM113 Calcium Reactor

Skimz SM163 Skimmer  
BKM_4621.jpg?raw=1

Edited by Jerel
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Jerel, is that background opaque (solid black) or is it see-thru (like window tinting film) when there's light behind it (like from a fish room)?

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Jerel, is that background opaque (solid black) or is it see-thru (like window tinting film) when there's light behind it (like from a fish room)?

Origami,

 

Good question - This background is somewhat opague. Light does not transmit through the film unless you place a strong light source directly behind it. 

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Origami,

 

Good question - This background is somewhat opague. Light does not transmit through the film unless you place a strong light source directly behind it. 

Sounds pretty decent. Thanks!

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Sounds pretty decent. Thanks!

No Problem - Are you looking to start a fish room or add to a existing one? 

 

Great meeting you the other day !

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No Problem - Are you looking to start a fish room or add to a existing one? 

 

Great meeting you the other day !

 

You went to the last meeting?  I'm sorry I missed saying hello.  I had to miss it for family obligation, but if you'll have time at the July one, which will be the annual FragFest in McLean, VA, I'd like to talk controllers with you.

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No Problem - Are you looking to start a fish room or add to a existing one? 

 

Great meeting you the other day !

 

No. I've had fish rooms in our last two homes over the past 10 years or so. I've avoided using tinting films because I wasn't finding ones that were opaque (the last time I looked, hobbyists were using automotive window tint which, by nature, had to transmit light in at least one direction for obvious reasons). The current tank has a back that's painted in, but I'm thinking about replacing the two Glass Holes overflows with two of the newer (and quieter) ones from Synergy Reef. That's probably a summer project. I'm also looking at ideas for a sediment trap/pre-filter box that would install over my 100 gallon Rubbermaid (preferably by just sitting on one half of it) that sits between my display and auxiliary tanks, and holds my skimmer and a large bucket of extra rock.

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You went to the last meeting?  I'm sorry I missed saying hello.  I had to miss it for family obligation, but if you'll have time at the July one, which will be the annual FragFest in McLean, VA, I'd like to talk controllers with you.

No worries - I'll catch you at FragFest ! 

 

No. I've had fish rooms in our last two homes over the past 10 years or so. I've avoided using tinting films because I wasn't finding ones that were opaque (the last time I looked, hobbyists were using automotive window tint which, by nature, had to transmit light in at least one direction for obvious reasons). The current tank has a back that's painted in, but I'm thinking about replacing the two Glass Holes overflows with two of the newer (and quieter) ones from Synergy Reef. That's probably a summer project. I'm also looking at ideas for a sediment trap/pre-filter box that would install over my 100 gallon Rubbermaid (preferably by just sitting on one half of it) that sits between my display and auxiliary tanks, and holds my skimmer and a large bucket of extra rock.

I have an extra piece that you can try out if you like.  

 

Very nice ! Sounds like a worthy upgrade for your systems. 

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Cabinet Lighting

I've seen hobbyist use a particular type of motion sensor LEDs and they seem to be a bit cumbersome as the lights timeout after a period of time, not here. This kit allows me to have my light or lights on/off indefinitely. This modular system offers a endless amount of configurations   :cool:  

Parts list:

Hafele Surface Mounted Puck Light, 12v Coolwhite 5000k

Hafele Modular Switch Lead

Hafele Touch Free on/off Sensor Switch

Hafele 20w 12v LED Driver

.GIF(23.8MB) Better not have dial-up Lol

HafeleLED01.gif?raw=1

BKM_9839.jpg?raw=1

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That's pretty slick.

I considered putting a security switch on my cabinet doors and running a loop through my breakout box to control an under cabinet light.

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That's pretty slick.

I considered putting a security switch on my cabinet doors and running a loop through my breakout box to control an under cabinet light.

Breakout box via a AquaController Apex? I was going to go that route with my GHL ProfiLux but i didn't have much use for the remaining inputs. 

 

However, adding two more sensors or door contact switches is possible as it recognizes the last switch command from different points. 

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Yes for my apex. I have a coupe leftover contacts and was wondering what I could do with them. I also considered an audible alarm in case my kids opened the doors. So far they leave them alone but it only takes one time for them to create a nightmare of multiple possibilities.

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Yes for my apex. I have a coupe leftover contacts and was wondering what I could do with them. I also considered an audible alarm in case my kids opened the doors. So far they leave them alone but it only takes one time for them to create a nightmare of multiple possibilities.

What about those magnetic door locks. You would need too deactivate on apex for door to open.756aeeefed10e8cdb38fcab31fa09782.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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Yes for my apex. I have a coupe leftover contacts and was wondering what I could do with them. I also considered an audible alarm in case my kids opened the doors. So far they leave them alone but it only takes one time for them to create a nightmare of multiple possibilities.

Apex has an audible alarm or would you need something more frightening Lol

 

What about those magnetic door locks. You would need too deactivate on apex for door to open.756aeeefed10e8cdb38fcab31fa09782.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Interesting.

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Congrats on your tank,

Looking pretty good, quite high tech.

Awesome!

Ha! There's a bit of tech but it's quite simple.

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As this month is coming to a close.. I'm waiting for my father to allow me to use his fancy table saw to complete my acrylic sump. My little tabletop saw just isn't going to cut it, literally.

I usually inquire to Avast Marine for Weld-on solvents and applicator bottles, pending order. 

 

IMG_0281.JPG?raw=1

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Shhh... I was told to go grocery shopping. But, of course i was on the hunt for a frag tank.

FullSizeRender%206.jpg?raw=1

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(edited)

I recognize that.  That's a hard core frag tank and should last pretty much forever.

Exactly what i wanted and to support a local business   :)   

 

I think i'm going with GHL again with lighting, but with four(4) Mitras Lightbar 2's controlled by my ProfiLux 3.1T.

 

This'll be great place to house those impulse buys and a coral holding tank before they enter my display. 

Edited by Jerel
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Prospective

I managed to cut the outer structure of my sump at my father's house today ! The pieces to form a degassing and mechanical chamber will be done in-house. When planning the size of my sump came about. I had interest in just having volume to house equipment like heaters, filter sock, return pump, optical level sensors(x2) and enough volume to exchange four(4) gallons of saltwater for AWC. So given the size of this is fairly small. I decided to add a GHL Measurement Cell to house my electrodes, which looks freakin' cool !

Tidbit: Regarding the GHL Flow Sensor. I have one to measure the flow returning to my display tank, but there is one feature in particular that caught my interest. Since i have a DC controllable pump as my return pump and assigned programming. I can adjust the flow coming from my manifold valves, or shut them off completely, within seconds the return pump will compensate up/down to adjust the flow to my assigned 'Fixed/Constant' flow rate.

-GHL Flow Sensors came to market in 2012 and there is no expansion card, nor expansion box required. One just needs an unoccupied level port that are located on the back of the controller. 

IMG_0298.JPG?raw=1

 

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So are you saying that the Profilux lets you look at the flow rate through the flow sensor which is installed in your main return pipe and, when it increases because you have valved off a reactor, can adjust the control voltage going to your DC pump to slow it down?

 

My main problem with Apex is the lack of being able to measure variables like temp and pH and use them in programs other than in an If-Then statement.  I wanted to do math with the variables and use it to control other things, which the RA let me do.

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So are you saying that the Profilux lets you look at the flow rate through the flow sensor which is installed in your main return pipe and, when it increases because you have valved off a reactor, can adjust the control voltage going to your DC pump to slow it down?

 

My main problem with Apex is the lack of being able to measure variables like temp and pH and use them in programs other than in an If-Then statement.  I wanted to do math with the variables and use it to control other things, which the RA let me do.

Correct, that is exactly right.

 

Once you have the flow sensor installed and current is being measured, say the actual flow rate is measuring at 1000 l/h, then my desired flow rate of 900 l/h is assigned. Next - I'll select a 0-10v interface channel(DC Pump) and set the output to "Constant flow". (My DC return pump will keep my desired flow rate whenever I make changes to my feed valves. The profiLux will increas or decreas the 10v signal voltage to my return pump)... Hit Save and that's it! Or I can setup an alarm for when the flow rate drops below my desired flow rate and much more.

 

 

Oh man! Not with a ProfiLux.

Outside of the basic functions. There is a expert mode "Program Logic" that opens up a lot more for the user

 

Here are a few.

 

NOT-Function

The NOT-function needs exactly one input. The output behaves always inversely to the input.

 

AND-Function

The AND-function needs 2 inputs. The output is only ON if both inputs are ON.

 

OR-Function

The OR-function needs 2 inputs. The output is only ON if at least one input is ON.

 

NAND-Function

The NAND-function needs 2 inputs.The output is only OFF if both inputs are ON.

 

NOR-Function

The NOR-function needs 2 inputs. The output is only ON if both inputs are OFF.

 

Equal-Function

The EQUAL-function needs 2 inputs. The output is then ON if both inputs have the same state.

 

Unequal-Function

The UNEQUAL-function needs 2 inputs. The output is then ON if both inputs have a different state.

 

Time functions

Besides the simple logical functions explained before, ProfiLux offers also time functions. All time functions have only one input. The output is switched dependently on the input state, the time function and the set time. Times between 1s and 28800s (= 8h) can be set.

 

Pulse-Function

If the input changes from OFF to ON, the output is switched on. After the set time has expired (here in the example 12s), the output is switched off again, independent from the state of the input.

 

Delayed-On-Function

During switch-on, the output follows the input with the set delay time (here in the example 9s), during switch-off of the input, the output follows immediately.

 

Delayed-Off-Function

The output follows the input immediately during switch-on, when the input is switched off, the output follows with the set delay time.

 

Cyclic-Function

As long as the input is switched on, the output switches alternately ON and OFF, the switching duration is determined by the set time (here in the example 3s). If the input is OFF, then also the output is OFF.

 

SR-Flipflop

This is a special function. The specialty is that the recent output state persists as long as both inputs are OFF. The output is switched ON if the Set-input is ON. Also if the Set-input is again OFF shortly afterwards, the output remains ON and that until the Reset-Input is ON, then the output is OFF again.

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