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New Sump Pic


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New sump was delivered this week, thought I would share with the group :)

 

IMG_0456_zpsub7sbois.jpg

 

 

 

 

Will eventually go on the floor here.. The other box marked out on the floor is my 3x2 90gal for scale 

 

IMG_0437_zps4hw6r5se.jpg

 

 

 

 

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That will be huuuge!!  Is there a thread on your overall setup?  I'm setting up a 300 gal deep dimension and am open to ideas on plumbing and filtration.  

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I haven't made a thread yet. I have everything laid out where I think it will go, but waiting on final word from the engineer next week about my plans to brace the floor. I don't want to start plumbing anything together until I know he doesn't want to put a post in the middle of where my frag tanks are going. 

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I haven't made a thread yet. I have everything laid out where I think it will go, but waiting on final word from the engineer next week about my plans to brace the floor. I don't want to start plumbing anything together until I know he doesn't want to put a post in the middle of where my frag tanks are going. 

 

Common man, stop keeping us on ice! 

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I've been on hold for two weeks now waiting on getting my structural engineer report back. Good news is that I don't need to add any posts the basement. Bad news is he recommended sistering the joists with LVL beams and I'm having a hard time tracking them down. Talking the the boneheads at the Home Depot lumber section is getting me nowhere fast. 

 

I'm nowhere near ready to start ordering the new display tank, but I want to get the floor sorted out before I put the frag tanks/sump/90gal tank down in the basement right in the way. This will be a two phased build, first I want to get the basement fish room up and running. Then I can start planning out the 300ish gallons that will be upstairs in the office.

 

 

Can anyone recommend a place to get the beams, or a contractor that was reasonably priced when they reinforced the floor?

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Have you tried 84 lumber, a builder's supply or lumber yard?

 

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

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There looks like there is one in Woodbridge - (703) 330-8420

 

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

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Thanks Tom, 

 

I had started with home depot because I know the one in Fairfax has some LVL beams in stock. After talking to two people who didn't know a thing about lumber despite working in the lumber section i gave up. Marco gave me the names of a few I will call tomorrow including 84 Lumber.

 

Had a contractor quote me at 2k today to put five beams in. Told him to have a nice day and showed him the door.  

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$2k is a lot of money. Sounds like someone needed to pay off some holiday debt. :rolleyes:

 

I am curious about the beam (or what looks like a beam) in the center of the room running perpendicular to your floor joists. In the first pic, it does not appear to be supported at the block wall end and I cannot see the other end or where it terminates. Is it a plumbing, HVAC or electrical chase?  It also looks to be made of MDF or is that just how it is trimmed out?

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$2k is a lot of money. Sounds like someone needed to pay off some holiday debt. :rolleyes:

 

I am curious about the beam (or what looks like a beam) in the center of the room running perpendicular to your floor joists. In the first pic, it does not appear to be supported at the block wall end and I cannot see the other end or where it terminates. Is it a plumbing, HVAC or electrical chase?  It also looks to be made of MDF or is that just how it is trimmed out?

 

 

Its the main beam for the house, it goes into the block wall.. Somewhere along the line (90's) it was a bedroom for a teenager and they skinned part of the beam in MDF.  I just left it up and gave it a new coat of paint.  

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Gotcha, well it looks great so far. :cool:  It is only the beginning and from what you have shown, I am already a bit jealous of your available space and its potential. Keep the progress and pics coming, looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.

 

Thanks for Sharing

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  • 2 months later...

I saw this setup over the weekend.  He needs a build thread for sure.  Amazing setup and a true reef geek with skills (meant as a compliment of course).

 

Ben

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I have a similarly large filtration room: make sure you can both control the temp in the room and that it is well ventilated. Best IMO to vent in from house and vent out to outside. Floor drain if you can swing it. Sink. Enough dedicated circuits. $0.02

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I'll start a build thread here soon, but Floor drain - Check, Sink - Check, Washing machine for socks and towels - Check, 30pint dehumidifier draining to said floor drain - Check, Tie in fish room to home return ducting - Not done yet.

 

Need to talk to an HVAC pro to make sure my plan wont screw up the rest of the house HVAC first. I don't want to vent outside as I don't want to be pulling in outside air somewhere else in the house. Id rather run a small mini split than vent to the outside

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You don't want to get that "salty air" into the return.  That's a no no.  I build hotels and recently the trend has been saline pools.  Any engineer or HVAC pro is going to tell you not to let that salty air into your ducts unless you have SS ductwork.  It has been a pretty big problem for Owners lately, since they want to switch over to saline pools from chlorine.  Galvanized ductwork just doesn't cut it.  I'm not sure what the solution is, but I would not duct in the return in the fish room.  I'm not a HVAC guy, but I would run a supply to the basement and a small exhaust vent/louver.  It's what we do for bathrooms in hotels.  You just want the air to go away, not get into the house.....kind of like poop air and humidity from the bathroom.  Put air in and give the old air a place to go.....outside.

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You don't want to get that "salty air" into the return.  That's a no no.  I build hotels and recently the trend has been saline pools.  Any engineer or HVAC pro is going to tell you not to let that salty air into your ducts unless you have SS ductwork.  It has been a pretty big problem for Owners lately, since they want to switch over to saline pools from chlorine.  Galvanized ductwork just doesn't cut it.  I'm not sure what the solution is, but I would not duct in the return in the fish room.  I'm not a HVAC guy, but I would run a supply to the basement and a small exhaust vent/louver.  It's what we do for bathrooms in hotels.  You just want the air to go away, not get into the house.....kind of like poop air and humidity from the bathroom.  Put air in and give the old air a place to go.....outside.

+1 Very good point.

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I force humid air from my fish room into my duct work. I'm careful to note that I have absolutely no corrosion of the duct work in my fish room. If that were the case, I'd be very careful and would be taking steps to protect the outside surfaces. In my old house in Ashburn, there was ductwork in the fishroom area and that, too, did not seem to suffer corrosion. On the other hand, I've seen other aquarists whose ductwork in their fishrooms suffered a lot of corrosion. I don't know what the difference is, though, between the two.  For me, though, this arrangement acts as a humidifier for the house keeping us at a near-constant 50-55% relative humidity throughout though, which is beneficial to the baby grand piano that we have in the living room.

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I force humid air from my fish room into my duct work. I'm careful to note that I have absolutely no corrosion of the duct work in my fish room. If that were the case, I'd be very careful and would be taking steps to protect the outside surfaces. In my old house in Ashburn, there was ductwork in the fishroom area and that, too, did not seem to suffer corrosion.

Well that's good info to know.

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Well that's good info to know.

Yeah, but keep in mind that I've also seen duct work that has had a huge amount of rust, too. I don't know why some duct work suffers so much and why some tolerates the exposure. It may be a combination of distance from the tank and susceptibility to condensing liquid.  For example, I don't recall seeing much of a rust problem developing at Copps' place but one of our other officers had a lot of rust on his duct work (which was closer to the tank). My duct work is completely insulated inside with about 1-1/2 to 2-inches of a fiber insulation, so heat or cooling loss is minimized. The result is that nothing condenses on the outside. In my current home, I inject the humid air into my return ductwork in one of my two systems since I have an extensive return system using a 4- or 6-inch inline fan. This means it's really just drawing air that it would normally draw anyways. I'm not injecting into the heated/cooled stream (the output side). This choice may be part of the reason this works for me. The fan runs 24 hours per day and may be another reason.

 

Anyway, that's how it's rigged for me and, so far so good. 

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