XxTech MoneyxX March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 (edited) Hello WAMAS! Here are the dimensions of the new tank: 48x30x18 Here are the dimensions inside the sump area: 42x15 (without braces) 42x12 (with braces) So here is the issue I'm having, I have a 110g stand that I want to remove the 2 center braces due to them only have 12 inches in between of them... I can't get my 30 long sump in there . This is an upgrade from my 36g BowFront and I'd really like for the transition to go smoothly. Can I remove the center braces on this stand without worrying the whole tank would come tumbling down?? If I can't, anyone have any ideas of what you would do in my situation? Finally, I have a wet dry sump that I could use, but it's just a baby (maybe 12-15 gallons) but of course I want the 30 long down there as a sump.(it's 36x13x17. Take a look at the pictures. Thanks for your advice!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 14, 2015 by XxTech MoneyxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squishie89 March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 Is the top of the stand open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDRDATA March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 I had a similar problem with my new sump for my 75 gallon DT. What I ended up doing was removing the front center brace (it was attached with pocket screws), putting the sump in place, and then putting the center brace back. Yes, it was a royal pain to do, but it was doable, and working in the sump around the brace isn't too bad. Is that something that would work for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwweber March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 (edited) I would think the center legs not needed. HOWEVER, maybe the answer would be to shorten them and move them between the horizontal pieces Edited March 14, 2015 by gwweber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 I don't think that stand is appropriate as is anyways. The entire weight of the rimmed aquarium is being held up by sheer forces against the screws. It needs reinforcement. I think it would be much easier to get some 2x4 and build a proper stand with a large center opening. -- Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madweazl March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 I don't think that stand is appropriate as is anyways. The entire weight of the rimmed aquarium is being held up by sheer forces against the screws. It needs reinforcement. I think it would be much easier to get some 2x4 and build a proper stand with a large center opening. -- Warren I agree. An easy fix is to add some 2X4s at the vertical supports but I'm not sure it's worth the effort if the stand doesnt fit sump too be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 I don't think that stand is appropriate as is anyways. The entire weight of the rimmed aquarium is being held up by sheer forces against the screws. It needs reinforcement. I think it would be much easier to get some 2x4 and build a proper stand with a large center opening. -- Warrend +1 load is all on the screws, not the corner posts. If you remove the center brace, you might have problems. You also don't really have anything for sheer forces, you need to ad something diagonal in the corners, or a sheet of plywood across the back. I am not an engineer.....just IMO I agree. An easy fix is to add some 2X4s at the vertical supports but I'm not sure it's worth the effort if the stand doesnt fit sump too be used. Add diagonal supports, add 2 x 4 posts under the outer rim, and you might be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami March 14, 2015 Share March 14, 2015 What's the size on the two-by beams that run horizontally across the front and back? Personally, I like more direct compressive force over the posts and, like wangspeed said, your load is being carried by the screws / nails. I looked up a calculator from the American Wood Council and ran a shear calculation based on some fairly weak soft wood (1-1/2 inch Eastern White Pine, which may or may not be used in your stand) and using a comparatively short 8d (2-1/2 inch) box nail (which is thinner than a common nail) as a reference. Defining this as a permanent load (load duration factor 0.9), each nail can safely provide 42 pounds of long term support. The problem is not that the nail can shear, it's that the nail can bend and pull out. Depending upon the number and spacing of the nails, the joint may be strengthened. Stronger woods give better performance. For example, Using Southern Pine raises the connection capacity from 42 pounds to 71 pounds. Here's the calculator. And here are the shear modes (look on page 7 for shear mode IIIm for the predicted failure). If you can put a post directly below the beams (in "front" of the posts that you have now) and run them down so they sit on top of the horizontal members that sit on the floor), you can provide direct, compressive support for the beams that are bearing the brunt of the weight. Then, the question about whether you can remove the center post becomes more reasonable. And the answer to that question really depends upon the size of the beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxTech MoneyxX March 16, 2015 Author Share March 16, 2015 Thank you so much for replying to this post everyone... Me and a friend have decided to take this stand apart and rebuild it correctly! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed March 17, 2015 Share March 17, 2015 Google for rocketengineer's diy aquarium stand for ideas and more math than you wanna see. -- Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante411x March 17, 2015 Share March 17, 2015 Couldn't you just put a sheet of plywood on top of the stand that's the same dimensions as the tank? that'd transfer plenty of load onto the vertical wood pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami March 17, 2015 Share March 17, 2015 Couldn't you just put a sheet of plywood on top of the stand that's the same dimensions as the tank? that'd transfer plenty of load onto the vertical wood pieces. That's not quite true. A point load transfers in a 45-degree downward (conical) angle through the sheet. Because of the way the beams are mounted, though, the load is still borne by them until the fasteners start to fail. Then, you'll have a situation where you have a piece of 3/4" plywood cantilevered out by 1-1/2" supporting a ton along the sides and failing to transfer it to the corners. The plywood, even at 3/4", would likely begin to flex before then. The tank seams probably would fail at that point before the plywood gave way. Rebuilding the stand or putting reinforcing two-bys under each beam are better approaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquaknott March 18, 2015 Share March 18, 2015 I attached a link to the stand me and a frend built recently. It has pics of how we framed it. I would strongly recommend including the inside bracing like you see in our pics. I would also recommed using bigger screws. We used 4inch flat head deck screws. Our stand is very stable and as you can see does not have a middle support. We did put it in the back however not having one in the front allowed for the sump to easily com in and out. http://wamas.org/forums/topic/71305-my-90g-tank-stand/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquaknott March 18, 2015 Share March 18, 2015 I like the stain you used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxTech MoneyxX March 18, 2015 Author Share March 18, 2015 Looks great man! Me and a friend are rebuilding mine this weekend. He is very knowledgable, but I mentioned to him that WAMAS is filled with very intelligent people and we will need to use this thread for assistance. Thanks again WAMAS!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now