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What is happening with my Acan?


Joshwaggs

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I just got thos Acan frag yesterday. It was healthy last night and this morning this:

28ed868112288330948189dfb06d3ceb.jpg

 

This is what is looked like last night.

aa55122852f6cc71972dd21f8a347d9b.jpg

 

My parameters are off, but not that bad. Nitrates are between 10 and 20. Im trying to get some water made for a large water change, but i dont think that is the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

Tank:

29 gallons (with a 10 gallon sump)

0 ammonia

0 nitrites

10-20 nitrates

Lighting is currentusa orbit marine

I have the Acan at the bottom o. The tank with low flow.

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mine sometimes shrivel up like that and then a day or two later they are back to normal.

+1

 

 

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Hard to tell in the pic but to me it looks like the tissue has receded toward the edges. I've seen acans shrivle, but this reminds me of when scollys and cynarinas recede from the mouth outward and die. If this is the case, and it happened rapidly, it is often caused by flash frying w high light IME. Is that skeleton we see (the white at the center of the head)?

Edited by elbowdeep88
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What is your Alk and Cal?

 

How does the flow and light compare to where it came from?

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Elbowdeep88 that is skeleton. I think you are right about the light. I put it at the bottom of the tank, but in direct light. I thought it would be ok since the currentusa orbit marine are weak leds.

 

Duffygeos my alk is 7-8dkh and cal is 500. It was under radions at the fish store, but they were turned down and more blue. My lights are on 100% and 50/50, but they are weaker lights than the radions.

 

Thanks for the help, all.

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The flesh is gone. All heads are dead. It must have been the light. The hammer, which I got the same day, and is half way up the tank with 100%, light is doing fine, as is the ricordea (bought same day).

If it wasnt the light, I dont know what it was. At least it was just a frag.

 

Thanks for the help, all.

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The flesh is gone. All heads are dead. It must have been the light. The hammer, which I got the same day, and is half way up the tank with 100%, light is doing fine, as is the ricordea (bought same day).

If it wasnt the light, I dont know what it was. At least it was just a frag.

 

Thanks for the help, all.

sorry to hear that.

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Annap, I did a 30% water change and I put my light on an eight hour schedule, at 80%. The light was on a 10 hour schedule at 100%, before. I want to make sure I dont hurt the hammer or ricordea.

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I'd have let it relax under 10% for a day or two. And at least 50% change. Anytime you see that open mouth and can see the white skeleton inside it is heading down a bad road. Live and learn.

 

 

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Thanks, Annap. I will lower the light more. I guess those Currentusa Orbit Marine LEDs are more powerful than I thought. Compared to radions and other LEDs the Currentusa lights are cheap (less than 150 dollars). I figured they would be too weak to worry about acclimating.

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I think it had very little to do with water params and a lot to do with the light. Maybe it came from an area of the sales tank that wasnt receiving much light (like near the edges-which are often deceptively dim) or the ric and hammer were just more tolerant.

 

There are lots of recommendations as to how to best light acclimate corals without having to reduce total light in the tank, but if you get several new corals at once that might be easiest.

 

Watch the other new corals and/or consider moving them down and toward dim areas.

 

Sorry to hear-it looked nice. Good luck.

Edited by elbowdeep88
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Thanks, Annap. I will lower the light more. I guess those Currentusa Orbit Marine LEDs are more powerful than I thought. Compared to radions and other LEDs the Currentusa lights are cheap (less than 150 dollars). I figured they would be too weak to worry about acclimating.

my ever grow will nuke just as easy as others. I think I am up to 100% for like three hours. I follow a graduated cycle.

 

I think if it were light it would bleach, no? Curious to hear what Ben BN251 thinks.

 

 

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When it comes to lighting there is such a thing as too much light. Make sure to not bake your Acan colony. If the coral is getting too much light you will notice they stay closed up. Moderate light is plenty; too much light can be deadly to your coral. Moderate flow is best as well. When placing the coral it is also important to realize that placed on rock, tank bottom, or sand bed does matter. I would recommend not placing the coral on the sand bottom. I have heard from fellow reefers that sand can get between the polyp and the skeleton and eventually cause the polyp to die. I have never seen this personally but have heard about it a few times. If you choose to place the coral on a bare tank bottom you can expect the coral to grow into a ball shape. This is due to the fact that corals will grow around the skeleton they formed in the middle. This can produce a very neat looking show piece coral but it does hinder the growth rate. To me the ideal placement of the coral is mounted to a rock so that it can have the maximum growth potential and the most natural look.

 

 

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