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Am I crazy for pouring skimmate back into tank?


BowieReefer84

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I have been testing my nitrates every few days with my salifert kit. It measures zero, even when looking sideways there is no pink hue whatsover. I have been skimming wet, and decided to pour my last batch of skimmate into the tank. It was only like 1/2" of wet skimmate, and NOT a full cup. I turned down the air valve and lowered the water level to get drier skimmate from here on. The reason I did this was to increase my nitrates to detectable levels in the 2-5 range.

 

SO, what do you guys and gals keep your nitrates at with sps systems?

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Umm, I think your crazy... I think most people shoot for zero.. Why do you want nitrates..?

 

I have been doing a LOT of reading, and it seems people with colorful fast growing sps are in the 2-5 range. Not all, but some as there are always different strategies and ways to reach success.

 

Check out post #7 in this thread http://reefcentral.org/forums/showthread.php?p=16429363 We all know how nice his tank is, and he says 10 works best for him. I am aiming for 2-5, which is well below 10.

 

I can see why you call me crazy, and this is something I will likely never do again.

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What happens if you turn your skimmer off? I would do that before dumping the skimmate back in the tank. Maybe you will only need to run your skimmer 24-36 hours a week or so. I've ready about people have success that way.

 

 

It stops working... j/k.

 

I am going to try to shoot for a drier skimmate. It has been very wet lately (that's what she said tongue.gif ). I like keeping it on to keep the water aerated, and PH up. Thank you for the suggestions. Yea, I agree I won't dump anymore back into the tank.

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It stops working... j/k.

 

I am going to try to shoot for a drier skimmate. It has been very wet lately (that's what she said tongue.gif ). I like keeping it on to keep the water aerated, and PH up. Thank you for the suggestions. Yea, I agree I won't dump anymore back into the tank.

 

You could take the collection cup off to keep the water aerated. Also, I don't know if dumping it back in would be a problem, just doesn

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My nitrates are around 10. The colors are really good and i have great PE. I hve read and also been told by some reefers that have tanks i could only dream of having that some nitrates are good for the corals. I guess its like anythin else, its O.K. in moderation.

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Do you run carbon on your system? I think the carbon will be used up faster if you dial back or don't run a skimmer. Something has to be used to pull that green nasty stuff out of the tank. I would think the clearer the water gets from using a skimmer that it would allow more light down to the corals which means better looking coral.

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Do you run carbon on your system? I think the carbon will be used up faster if you dial back or don't run a skimmer. Something has to be used to pull that green nasty stuff out of the tank. I would think the clearer the water gets from using a skimmer that it would allow more light down to the corals which means better looking coral.

 

That

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Do you run carbon on your system? I think the carbon will be used up faster if you dial back or don't run a skimmer. Something has to be used to pull that green nasty stuff out of the tank. I would think the clearer the water gets from using a skimmer that it would allow more light down to the corals which means better looking coral.

 

I run chemipure and purigen. The water is very clear, and there is no algae in the tank. In regards to the lighting I have led's that are dimmed down. I started to high and the corals were not doing well.

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Mike-

your tank is still relatively new in terms of being able to have super nice coral growth. It takes a good year and a half-2 years to have near perfect growing conditions with everything thriving. Instead of trying crazy methods to growing coral, try the best way of all- patience.

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Mike-

your tank is still relatively new in terms of being able to have super nice coral growth. It takes a good year and a half-2 years to have near perfect growing conditions with everything thriving. Instead of trying crazy methods to growing coral, try the best way of all- patience.

 

I basically just transfered my old 29gal tank into a 29gal biocube. I don't really consider the tank new. My old 29 was up for about 3 years and this rock was out of water for all of about 10 seconds when making the switch. I am not looking for amazing growth... I would settle for average growth. The monti are doing really great, its more the acro's.... o well. Could be worse. I do not have any pests or sick fish.

 

I do agree pouring the skimmate back was a little crazy, and won't be doing that again.

 

I am hoping in two years the tank fills in. That is my real goal. I don't think that should be a problem.

 

fwiw I quit with the prodibio and all that.

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What happens if you turn your skimmer off? I would do that before dumping the skimmate back in the tank. Maybe you will only need to run your skimmer 24-36 hours a week or so. I've ready about people have success that way.

When I suggested cutting back skimmer time on another thread, I got the impression that people thought I was being stupid. When a tank is nutrient-poor, corals get pale and start suffering. Either cutting back on skimming or adding nutrients to the tank are the only things I've seen anyone suggest, and skimming is counter-productive if a person is having to actually add the nutrients back that the skimmer is taking out.

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I keep my 'rates 0-10ppm. I certainly wouldn't pour my skimmate back in, I would just feed a little more - your fish and corals will thank you for it (especially feeding your sps some newly-hatched brine shrimp).

 

Cheers

Mike

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I keep my 'rates 0-10ppm. I certainly wouldn't pour my skimmate back in, I would just feed a little more - your fish and corals will thank you for it (especially feeding your sps some newly-hatched brine shrimp).

 

Cheers

Mike

 

 

 

I agree, Mike and I had a discussion about the effects of biopellets and prodibio have longterm. in a small system with no real natural digestion of the bioload, for example chmecial filtration that exports more than is produced from feeding, your corals will need extra food. in my coral trays, each 400+ gallons, i strain two days worth of PE mysis, some foods from H2O, over a coarse net into a separate container and dump the juices into the system. after ii do this regardless of time of day my corals go nuts!!

 

bowie reefer....why dont you try feeding aminos(zelcon, zoecon, GVH) or more planktonic foods <100microns sparingly, like once a week at first.

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+1 for Feed more. We really underfeed what we keep in our glass boxes. Do everything you can to pull nitrates out and feed your corals and fish. I am feeding heavily 4 times a day and getting away with it because of a big skimmer and solid carbon + MB7.

 

Above all, realize it really does take a year to get serious growth. I have frags that went in as soon as my tank cycle that just sat there until about month 13, then exploded.

 

 

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When I suggested cutting back skimmer time on another thread, I got the impression that people thought I was being stupid. When a tank is nutrient-poor, corals get pale and start suffering. Either cutting back on skimming or adding nutrients to the tank are the only things I've seen anyone suggest, and skimming is counter-productive if a person is having to actually add the nutrients back that the skimmer is taking out.

I don't think that you're stupid. The only thing to watch for in certain setups would be stagnant water sitting in the skimmer while it is off, then entering the system when turned back on. That would not be an issue for me, but maybe for some?

 

I keep my 'rates 0-10ppm. I certainly wouldn't pour my skimmate back in, I would just feed a little more - your fish and corals will thank you for it (especially feeding your sps some newly-hatched brine shrimp).

 

Cheers

Mike

Do you have to get these fresh? Do they last in the fridge? Thanks.

 

I agree, Mike and I had a discussion about the effects of biopellets and prodibio have longterm. in a small system with no real natural digestion of the bioload, for example chmecial filtration that exports more than is produced from feeding, your corals will need extra food. in my coral trays, each 400+ gallons, i strain two days worth of PE mysis, some foods from H2O, over a coarse net into a separate container and dump the juices into the system. after ii do this regardless of time of day my corals go nuts!!

 

bowie reefer....why dont you try feeding aminos(zelcon, zoecon, GVH) or more planktonic foods <100microns sparingly, like once a week at first.

What foods are less than 100 microns? Currently I am using reefroids and kent coral accel with cyclopeze pe mysis and spectrum pellets for the fish (http://www.marinedepot.com/Polyp_Lab_Reef_Roids_4oz_Coral_Additives_Supplements-Polyp_Lab-PP1111-FIADSACS-vi.html)

Reefroids are 150-200 microns, and I know the cyclopeze is way larger than that.

Thanks

 

+1 for Feed more. We really underfeed what we keep in our glass boxes. Do everything you can to pull nitrates out and feed your corals and fish. I am feeding heavily 4 times a day and getting away with it because of a big skimmer and solid carbon + MB7.

 

Above all, realize it really does take a year to get serious growth. I have frags that went in as soon as my tank cycle that just sat there until about month 13, then exploded.

 

 

Thank you for the input.

 

 

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Re newly hatched brine - it's easiest if you hatch them out on your own, and I recommend decapsulating the cysts first. If you get a poor hatch rate, corals (and many fishes) will still feed on the decapsulated cyst whereas they will typically reject them if the hard outer shell is sitll on the egg. Imagine removing the hard shell of a chicken egg with only the inner membrane left. The brine shrimp has an easier time hatching.

 

Hatching out brine is very easy - all you need is an empty 2-3 liter coke bottle and air pump w/ line and a brine net. Brine Shrimp Direct has instructions on how to hatch. For decapsulation, I hydrate about a tablespoon of cysts in fresh water for about 15-20 minutes, drain them, and then bubble them (with the air pump) in about a liter of bleach for two minutes. (You can use less of all this recipe for your own needs).

 

Follow your brine hatching instructions (mixture of salt and fresh water), and in about 24-48 hours, you will have MANY nauplii (juvenile brine) to feed out. They will keep in the fridge (in water) for a few days.

 

I also feed sps corals a few hours after lights out or early in the morning before lights on, as this is the natural time for sps to feed in the wild (and thus why you see greater polyp extension at night).

 

Cheers

Mike

Edited by OUsnakebyte
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Also dont forget that your skimmer does more than pull crap out it also adds huge amounts of oxygen into your water, so turning it off for extended periods of time may reduce your dissolved O2.

john

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Also dont forget that your skimmer does more than pull crap out it also adds huge amounts of oxygen into your water, so turning it off for extended periods of time may reduce your dissolved O2.

john

 

 

That sounds stupid!!! :ph34r:

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You can also buy decapsulated brine shrimp eggs. I hatch a new batch every 48 hours or so, and just dump them into the tank early in the morning before the lights are on.

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Also dont forget that your skimmer does more than pull crap out it also adds huge amounts of oxygen into your water, so turning it off for extended periods of time may reduce your dissolved O2.

john

 

When I say "turn off" I really mean dial it down, so while it doesn't pull out as much, you still get oxygenation from it.

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