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Aiptasia/Mojano Burner


El Camaron

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Tom I just tried it again and on closer observation there is some gassing on the positive graphite electrode but it is very slight and the bubbles hardly release from the graphite to go to the surface. The stainless electrode looks like smoke and you can't even see the stainless steel through the bubbles.

I like to put a hole on one side of the mojano with the stainless steel probe and then stick it in the other end. The gas travels through the mojano and exits out the other end along with it's innards which are white and look like styrofoam after being subjected to this mojano "DoomsDay" device. :ph34r:

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Tom I just tried it again and on closer observation there is some gassing on the positive graphite electrode but it is very slight and the bubbles hardly release from the graphite to go to the surface. The stainless electrode looks like smoke and you can't even see the stainless steel through the bubbles.

I like to put a hole on one side of the mojano with the stainless steel probe and then stick it in the other end. The gas travels through the mojano and exits out the other end along with it's innards which are white and look like styrofoam after being subjected to this mojano "DoomsDay" device. :ph34r:

 

Sounds like a WMD (weapon of majano destruction) to me. :ph34r:

 

The gassing at the carbon (positive) electrode is chlorine gas. You're probably getting less of it forming there because of the relatively high pH of a saltwater aquarium.

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This is getting better and better! I am DYING to know if it will kill my nuisance palythoas. I have been pulling rocks out of my display and clearing them - but it takes forever. I have to nibble off rock under the paly's, and then leave the rock in my 'rock storage' tank for a while to see if any more appear. Then scrape those off. How evil are these things? 1.5 years ago - I took a rock outside, and put it in a bucket of fresh water. After drying out, fresh water, snow, freezing temperatures, and heat of summer... the polyps are still there - attached firmly to the rock. I'm sure they are dead - okay PRETTY sure... but they are still there.

 

I would love to try it out - and happy to contribute to the Paul B. mad scientist fund for the privilege.

 

bob

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I am DYING to know if it will kill my nuisance palythoas

 

You have no idea how many E Mails I have been getting asking if the thing will kill all sorts of things.

I only tested it on Mojanoes but if Paris Hilton comes by, maybe she will let me test it on her.

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Can you suggest a particular transformer from Radio Shack or somewhere?? Would a 24v wall-wart work?

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A287AI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000H5Y7MU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Z9ZJFXJZZTR292RWSXE

 

also - haven't seen the 'whole thing' picture. How long is the 'rod'? Does one end stay out of the water, or is it just a small magic wand, and you reach down into the tank to zap?

 

Thanks,

bob

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A 24 volt transformer will work fine as long as it puts out DC, very important.

Anything that charges batteries, cell phones, lap tops etc will be DC but it has to say output DC. If it does not say, it is AC and will not work in this application.

The one you posted does not say DC so it is probably AC.

The tube holding the electrode is about 14". It can be any length.

Also, you don't have to mount the graphite on the rod. It can just be hung in the water anywhere. Just don't have any copper touching the water.

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A 24 volt transformer will work fine as long as it puts out DC, very important.

Anything that charges batteries, cell phones, lap tops etc will be DC but it has to say output DC. If it does not say, it is AC and will not work in this application.

The one you posted does not say DC so it is probably AC.

The tube holding the electrode is about 14". It can be any length.

Also, you don't have to mount the graphite on the rod. It can just be hung in the water anywhere. Just don't have any copper touching the water.

 

I reckon most of those put out half-wave rectified 'pulsing DC' current. It's mostly a question of how much filtering it needs. Did you end up using that 'wall-wart' in the picture successfully? I can't imagine anything much simpler. I don't have an oscilloscope anymore - but that little thing can't have MUCH filtering in it. I figured that great big transformer you displayed early on in the thread might. I think I might just have to try this. My display has been in complete disarray, because I need to pull some rocks out to kill those nuisance paly's - that won't fit through the opening. I've been waiting until I could get several people to lift the canopy. If that will kill them - problem solved!!!

 

Thanks!

bob

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A friend of mine owns a LFS near my home and his tanks are loaded with mojanos. Very large ones, so I am going to try to go there today and test the device on larger mojanos. I may need to bring a larger transformer to generate more power for these suckers

but it will be a good test.

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The burner works. Some got cooked totally, some mostly, some a little, and some just must be tough customers.

 

We used a 12vdc 500ma unit.

Took longer "burn time" than we thought so it's going to take some getting used to.

Used a similar needle like you and then some graphite from a kids thick pencil.

It's got a nice button and enough cord to work with.

Did smell something from the bubbles, maybe chlorine, but it was not heavy.

We sharpened the graphite so we could tell if it burned up and it does burn up some.

 

100325_072748.jpg

I most definitely will have a siphon tube either built in to the devise or along side it to remove the water and cooked mojano parts surrounding the zap.

I'll put up some video later and more pics later.

All in all, it was well worth the build, if nothing more than having the boys be so insterested and thrilled as the mojano erupted in mucus.

Eradicating any is also a great benefit. Long term it will be interesting to see if they come back.

You most definitely have to puncture the animal to make it the primary contact point of devastation.

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It looks great. Nice job.

You may need an 18 volt power supply for the larger ones. My first one was a 24 volt job.

I use what I have laying around. It looks like the graphite electrode may have to have an attachement so it can be replaced easily.

It is a bit of a challenge because that electrode exudes chlorine which would disolve stainless steel in a minute or so so it has to be in a device that is not under water.

It is not an insurmountable problem and will give your kids something to invent. :rolleyes:

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A friend of mine owns a large LFS and his reefs are loaded with mojanos so I made the mistake of telling him that I built this mojano zapper. He had to try it so I brought it there today and he loves the thing. He destroyed about 75 mojanos in about 15 minutes. And in his tank they are huge. There is no chance of them returning because there is nothing left of them.

I had a hard time getting the thing back from him but he gave me a nice rock with yellow polyps on it so I told him I would build a larger one for his deeper tanks.

I built a different model and after it is completed I will try it again on his tanks.

This is in the store's tank, those spots you see to the left are the bubbles along with burnt up pieces of mojano

 

IMG_0407.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mojano burn update after a few weeks;

 

 

After some practice on rocks that can not be removed from my structure, I have finally learned how to use this thing to my advantage.

It works well but needs to run (energize) longer than I thought on those tucked into holes you can not see at first.

 

You must puncture the animal to have any success. Merely bushing the mojano with the probe just sends it into it's hole, if one.

 

I also turn my water movement off, except the main pump.

 

Once you puncture and zap, I found it best to work the needle back and forth covering the mojano with as much needle as possible. All the while the button is pushed and energized.

Multiple jabs and zaps is best and can often lead to the anemone letting go and floating to the surface to be collected.

 

I have removed all the hard to get ones I've seen that could not be removed via cold water submersion techique.

 

To anyone with an issue, this is not hard to make and works well. It just takes some getting used to.

I do not see new mojanos appearing from any slight particle by products of the zapping.

 

Definitely a great build, thanks goes out to paulb for the write up and of course Will Robinson for following the warning.

 

It's a shame because they really can be pretty little anemones.

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(edited)
Once you puncture and zap, I found it best to work the needle back and forth covering the mojano with as much needle as possible. All the while the button is pushed and energized.

Multiple jabs and zaps is best and can often lead to the anemone letting go and floating to the surface to be collected

I have found the same thing. You need to brush the tentacles and the thing falls apart and does not return. I don't even have to use it anymore because the mere sight of the thing forces the mojanos to commit suicide.

 

I used it in a LFS where they had dozens in every tank. It did a great job. I built another one and I now have both of them lent out for trials.

Edited by paul b
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