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Boret

DIY Ozone Reactor

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Interesting design. It is kind of half downdraft skimmer/half ozone reactor with a built in carbon chamber. If you decide to build it be sure to post photos as you go. You are correct though for simple water clarification a skimmer or this style reactor will work well, if you want to kill pathogens and sterilize you need to go into a more efficient design like the pressure reactor at slow flow.

 

So if I want to inject into a skimmer while a wait/hope for this to come to market, do I need to worry about the air and water passing through carbon?

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First thing you need to worry about is if your skimmer is Ozone safe. Otherwise you could really degrade the plastic and the integrity of the whole device.

 

You want to run the output water of the skimmer through Activated Carbon to absorb any leftover O3.

 

You might want to run carbon on the breathing holes of the collection cup of the skimmer if your skimmer is inside the house in an area that is not ventilated. Ozone is hazardous to humans so I say better safe than sorry.

 

Ozone has been known for almost a century, so a great deal is known about it. Several regulatory agencies, including the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), have stipulated that the safe allowable level of residual is 0.10-ppm (parts per million). Note that this permissible level is for continuous exposure throughout an entire 8 hour day for 5 days a week. The temporary affects of such a low exposure would range from headaches, to sore throats, irritation in the eyes, and nose.

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no wonder i have never seen a ozone module on any tank i got a price of 1000.00 dollars delivered .....diy for me...

looks like i may use a ten gallon aquarium as my diy for a module does anyone know is ozone will affect the silicone around the glass and cause a small leak......

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I take my time with testing new products so I can troubleshoot via email if any problems arise, so sorry for the delay but, here are some results:

 

 

#1 Ideal flow rate of reactor to achieve 3psi with a maxijet1200 pump and luft pump is 50gph.

Using a 50mg/hour red sea unit the water coming out of the reactor was 650mv (+/- 25mv)

 

#2 At 1.5psi and the same set up output was 600mv at a very constant rate, no 25 +/- swings like the higher psi (no idea why?)

At 1.5psi flow rate was 100gph

 

Rather than reporting algebra equations here and confusing many in the process (I can do if anyone is interested) I will try and put it into how this translates to the user.

 

User #1 has a 250g system. 99.0% of the water in the system will be run through the reactor in a 24hour period at 650mv

User #2 has a 250g system. 99.99% of the water in the system will be run through the reactor in a 24hour period at 600mv

 

or

 

User #1 has a 125g system. 99.99% of the water in the system will be run through the reactor in a 24hour period at 650mv

User #2 has a 125g system. 99.999% of the water in the system will be run through the reactor in a 24hour period at 600mv

 

There are a few ways we can interpret the results here but I do want to say that I am very happy with this reactor, especially the amount of contact time. Not sure I have time to add this to the GSA lineup anytime soon (I did build 2 though ;) ) so I hope this thread can serve for some good info for future builders. I found water pressure has a more profound effect on the reactor psi then the air pump but, a smaller air pump could not handle the back pressure of the water pump. It does look like the luft style pump is needed. I imagine by hooking the water inlet to a return pump manifold (like Boret plans to do) he will be able to increase the psi a little more, but depending on the desired output orp level this may not be something that is even needed. 600mv steady should have a profound effect on the sterilization of the aquarium. By using a larger o3 reactor it is probably possible to get higher internal orp levels at the same psi value, the 50mg/hour was the only one I had to test though. Good news is that it also the cheapest one to buy and it looks like it should be enough to handle a 250g system (barely IMHO). The 100mg/hour (adjustable version) may be a better choice if you are buying instead of using one you already have. Once I get a few extra fittings for Boret to hook this up to his tank I expect we will see more real world data come into play and can evaluate performance by results that involve less math :)

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I can see massive RTN and bleach out of my corals in my near future!!! LOL

Just kidding, I am looking forward to it Dan. When am I picking up the beast?

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First off great thread i have been trying to come up with a simple design for a reactor and I think this will work just fine. I however plan to construct mine from PVC 4" tube. I have a few questions about the design and process. I have been reading up on Ozone and found the link to this set up for the MTC O3 Reactor set up and design.

 

I totally understand that the pre and post carbon filters are going to be required. I just need to know exactly why the flow setup from the MTC design shows both air and water returning to the sump? I though only the water from the reactor would be returning to the sump after passing through a carbon filter?

 

Dan,

 

As for your design is the water flow coming in from the top of the reactor and dripping to the bottom output? If this is the design is there some sort of valve on the pressure nozzle or post carbon filter for what you created in the lid to keep it from expelling water?

 

Finally would a small air dryer filled with carbon be significant for the water to pass through before retuning to the tank or should I make a larger PVC unit?

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Hi sailfintang,

 

Welcome to WAMAS!!

 

I picked up the Ozone Reactor from Dan this weekend. It is awesome!!! I want to publicly thank Dan for the amount of work and research he has put into this piece of equipment and all the help and advice he has so far given me. This is a much, much better piece of equipment and Ozone delivery mechanism than my original idea of transforming the Skimmer for that purpose.

 

We are working on a small leak but that should be resolved shortly (probably produce by my incompetence setting it up), and Dan has already thought of improvements in the design to make it bullet proof. We are at a testing stage and the next few months will be critical to fine tune the device. So far the reactor performed great, keeping at close to 3 psi inside the chamber until the small leak developed.

 

The reactor receives the water at the Top where it hits a perforated round acrylic plate that makes the water trickle down into the biobale. Also at the top there are 2 nipples, one to introduce Ozone and the other as a pressure relief valve. There is also a pressure gauge to keep track of PSI inside the reactor.

 

At the bottom, a 90 degree elbow, receives the water and through a valve goes out of the reactor, in my case into a Carbon reactor. The valve allows you to setup the appropriate back pressure and control the water level inside the chamber. The trick is to achieve the proper water flow and pressure. There are 3 things affecting this equilibrium:

 

1. Water coming in. The amount we are working with now is around 100 gph.

2. Ozone into the reactor. Working with a Luft pump rated at a max of 5 psi. Some pressure gets lost from the pump until it reaches the reactor.

3. Output valve at the bottom of the reactor into the carbon reactor. This is the main valve used to achieve the equilibrium.

 

I have two types of air dryers. The first one, the one that comes with the Red Seas Ozonizer is worthless for a pressure bias application of Ozone. It pretty much pops open as the air pressure increases, even at the lowest setting in the Luft air pump. I am using that one with active carbon, to filter the air/water (a few drops per second) coming from the relief valve.

 

I have a different dryer, a cylinder made of plastic, which screws at both ends. This one wasn't completely air tight and the pressure was expanding the plastic at the ends letting air come out before it even reached the ozonizer. I applied several layers of Teflon tape at the threaded ends and I have a semi tight air dryer now.

 

Nonetheless, a different design for the air dryer is necessary from the commercially available. BRS sells one that might work better.

 

I am using ozone resistant tubing all the way from the air pump to the reactor, and from the relief valve into the small carbon container. I wonder if rigid tubing all the way to the ozonizer might help maintain the air pressure. The water out of the reactor travels through neoprene tubing into the Carbon Reactor. I check with NextReef, the manufacturer of my MR1 Media Reactor to make sure all the materials were Ozone safe. Even the sponges are ozone safe, but the guys at NextReef send me a few more in different thicknesses and material to test out.

 

I also use an air check valve in between the ozonizer and the reactor to avoid water flowing back when the air pump is off.

 

One of the issues I see with a PVC chamber is the impossibility to see the amount of water inside the reactor. I have no idea how would you go about adjusting the water flow, back pressure, etc. without seeing the water level. The idea is to provide more contact surface and time to the water in the reactor with the supplied ozone, therefore the use of the biobale. Dan explained previously the advantages of the pressurized chamber as opposed to a non-pressurized one. If you go with PVC I am fairly certain that you won't be able to go the pressurize route.

 

I will add pictures of the setup shortly.

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Sailfin, Boret gave a very good overview but I will add a bit. If you used solid pvc you could regulate the flow and pressure by watching the pressure relief valve. If there is just a tiny amount of "mist" coming out this valve then you know the water level is at the right place inside the reactor. You can measure flow and use the gauge to determine pressure and flow without seeing inside. I helped Justin develop a reactor for his commercial greenhouse that was build with a piece of 14" diameter solid grey pvc. He has been posting on this thread, maybe he will throw a picture of it on here for you to see. Another thing to consider though is using 4.5" diameter clear acrylic for your project. This size tube is the exact same size as schedule 40/80 pvc so you can use off the shelf fittings to make the base and cap but still be able to see inside the reactor. If you wanted just enough of the 4.5" cast acrylic tube for this project shoot me an email and I could help you out with that.

 

Also, the "mist" coming from the relief valve should answer why the "air" carbon filter needs to be placed over the sump :)

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Hi sailfintang,

 

Welcome to WAMAS!!

 

I picked up the Ozone Reactor from Dan this weekend. It is awesome!!! I want to publicly thank Dan for the amount of work and research he has put into this piece of equipment and all the help and advice he has so far given me. This is a much, much better piece of equipment and Ozone delivery mechanism than my original idea of transforming the Skimmer for that purpose.

 

We are working on a small leak but that should be resolved shortly (probably produce by my incompetence setting it up), and Dan has already thought of improvements in the design to make it bullet proof. We are at a testing stage and the next few months will be critical to fine tune the device. So far the reactor performed great, keeping at close to 3 psi inside the chamber until the small leak developed.

 

The reactor receives the water at the Top where it hits a perforated round acrylic plate that makes the water trickle down into the biobale. Also at the top there are 2 nipples, one to introduce Ozone and the other as a pressure relief valve. There is also a pressure gauge to keep track of PSI inside the reactor.

 

At the bottom, a 90 degree elbow, receives the water and through a valve goes out of the reactor, in my case into a Carbon reactor. The valve allows you to setup the appropriate back pressure and control the water level inside the chamber. The trick is to achieve the proper water flow and pressure. There are 3 things affecting this equilibrium:

 

1. Water coming in. The amount we are working with now is around 100 gph.

2. Ozone into the reactor. Working with a Luft pump rated at a max of 5 psi. Some pressure gets lost from the pump until it reaches the reactor.

3. Output valve at the bottom of the reactor into the carbon reactor. This is the main valve used to achieve the equilibrium.

 

I have two types of air dryers. The first one, the one that comes with the Red Seas Ozonizer is worthless for a pressure bias application of Ozone. It pretty much pops open as the air pressure increases, even at the lowest setting in the Luft air pump. I am using that one with active carbon, to filter the air/water (a few drops per second) coming from the relief valve.

 

I have a different dryer, a cylinder made of plastic, which screws at both ends. This one wasn't completely air tight and the pressure was expanding the plastic at the ends letting air come out before it even reached the ozonizer. I applied several layers of Teflon tape at the threaded ends and I have a semi tight air dryer now.

 

Nonetheless, a different design for the air dryer is necessary from the commercially available. BRS sells one that might work better.

 

I am using ozone resistant tubing all the way from the air pump to the reactor, and from the relief valve into the small carbon container. I wonder if rigid tubing all the way to the ozonizer might help maintain the air pressure. The water out of the reactor travels through neoprene tubing into the Carbon Reactor. I check with NextReef, the manufacturer of my MR1 Media Reactor to make sure all the materials were Ozone safe. Even the sponges are ozone safe, but the guys at NextReef send me a few more in different thicknesses and material to test out.

 

I also use an air check valve in between the ozonizer and the reactor to avoid water flowing back when the air pump is off.

 

One of the issues I see with a PVC chamber is the impossibility to see the amount of water inside the reactor. I have no idea how would you go about adjusting the water flow, back pressure, etc. without seeing the water level. The idea is to provide more contact surface and time to the water in the reactor with the supplied ozone, therefore the use of the biobale. Dan explained previously the advantages of the pressurized chamber as opposed to a non-pressurized one. If you go with PVC I am fairly certain that you won't be able to go the pressurize route.

 

I will add pictures of the setup shortly.

 

Hi Boret, thanks for the welcome and answers to my questions.

 

As for pressure wouldn't a sealed or screw capped PVC tube do the same thing as the bolted top of the reactor dan built?

 

As for adjusting the pressure in the reactor isn't that what the gauge is for you can monitor the pressure within the reactor using the gauge after you tweak the input/output of the water?

 

Kind of a bummer about the read sea air dryer not working with the luft pump. I have an old ro/di cartridge i could mod pretty easy. As for the relief valve is there a switch on the valve or does it just let pressure out into the air around it? If so we would need a carbon output on that to get rid of any o3.

 

I plan to add the bio bale and drip plates for the reactor i just have to find where to buy the bio bale locally if possible. I think the PVC can be pressurized and as for flow it can be calculated with some baic math after you determine how long it takes to fill 250ml from the output.

 

Pics of the setup would be great too.

Edited by sailfintang

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my diy ozone reactor that i just built work great and is much better to me then the MRC design.

I took a Grey seas reactor added a Kent injector bio balls and sealed it up.

RUNS AT 1 PSI all the water and air come out of one PVC nipple and works fantastic plus the best part is no pump needed.

you only need to turn up the flow until it pushes out the water at the bottom what a simple design that alot of reactors from the UK use.

Will if you build one like this you can tell when you have pressure just buy turning up the flow until you see bubbles coming out of your flow.........

You are welcome to stop buy my house if you want to see this in action and give you a better idea how these work.

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I would take Dan's offer and just go acrylic for the body. Even if you do everything else with PVC.

 

When I was playing around with the reactor I could have a set amount of pressure (2psi) at different water levels inside the chamber.

Ideally I want the water to collect at the bottom about 1-2 inches from the output so the water tricles down over the biobale instead of filling the chamber with water. While I was messing around with inflow, outflow and the luft pump dial I could achieve several different levels of water inside the chamber with the exact same pressure, if I couldn't see the water level I have no clue how I would know if the biobale is completely submerge in water or if it was indeed properly setup. Am I making any sense?? darn, I need pictures! Why do I need to be in the office today instead of at home messing around with the new toy!!! :)

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gallery_1561_683_1530.jpg

 

CHECK out this reactor from CLEARTIDES.COM ONLY 45.00 PLUS 20.00 TO SHIP FROM THE UK there site has paypal and setup for shipping to US...........

Only 35.00 +20.00 WITHOUT pressure guage....Cheap enough i will order one to try

There sulfur reactors look sick and cheap also.

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gallery_1561_683_1530.jpg

 

CHECK out this reactor from CLEARTIDES.COM ONLY 45.00 PLUS 20.00 TO SHIP FROM THE UK there site has paypal and setup for shipping to US...........

Only 35.00 +20.00 WITHOUT pressure guage....Cheap enough i will order one to try

There sulfur reactors look sick and cheap also.

 

Cool. So for about $110 USD I would ask a couple questions before buying it though. What is diameter of reactor, how tall? 100% cast acrylic right? How thick are the flanges? Is that valve stainless or does it have copper drip tube on it? If all those questions come back good, that is fantastic deal! It looks like he saved a few bucks by not putting unions on it and using a sprinkler type valve instead of a sch80 valve but, that's the name of the game sometimes, offer the low sticker price and let the user add on all of this extras if needed rather than the plug and play approach which is always more money and sticker shock. If you do get it I'd wait till after Christmas to get anything shipped from the UK.

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Sailfin, Boret gave a very good overview but I will add a bit. If you used solid pvc you could regulate the flow and pressure by watching the pressure relief valve. If there is just a tiny amount of "mist" coming out this valve then you know the water level is at the right place inside the reactor. You can measure flow and use the gauge to determine pressure and flow without seeing inside. I helped Justin develop a reactor for his commercial greenhouse that was build with a piece of 14" diameter solid grey pvc. He has been posting on this thread, maybe he will throw a picture of it on here for you to see. Another thing to consider though is using 4.5" diameter clear acrylic for your project. This size tube is the exact same size as schedule 40/80 pvc so you can use off the shelf fittings to make the base and cap but still be able to see inside the reactor. If you wanted just enough of the 4.5" cast acrylic tube for this project shoot me an email and I could help you out with that.

 

Also, the "mist" coming from the relief valve should answer why the "air" carbon filter needs to be placed over the sump :)

 

 

Dan,

 

Yea the acrylic would be helpful. I had sent an email to you about getting a unit commercially but I like getting my hands dirty and increase my acrylic skills from time to time. Should i email you through your site or respond to an email you sent me?

 

As for the euro reactor I was on the site and they are pretty vague about the unit itself. there are instructions but no info on what it is constructed of. Does anyone know any where I can get the bio bale media from I don't know the rules of link posting here but I found some on ebay and MD but was wondering if there is a local place I can obtain it?

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sailfintang, for $20 a year you can become a full member and buy/sell/trade in the Members Only section. There are always great deals. By far my best investment in the hobby. :)

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Dan,

 

Yea the acrylic would be helpful. I had sent an email to you about getting a unit commercially but I like getting my hands dirty and increase my acrylic skills from time to time. Should i email you through your site or respond to an email you sent me?

 

As for the euro reactor I was on the site and they are pretty vague about the unit itself. there are instructions but no info on what it is constructed of. Does anyone know any where I can get the bio bale media from I don't know the rules of link posting here but I found some on ebay and MD but was wondering if there is a local place I can obtain it?

 

Just shoot me a email back. I have extra biobale too. I could probably hook you up with a little DIY kit for this if you were interested. I can't really say more than that on this thread. I can however user this thread to give you advice to build it regardless of where you get parts :)

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The GSA Ozone Reactor is in place and working great.

 

I uploaded a video on YouTube to show its operation.

You can find the video here:

 

The pressure in the chamber fluctuates between 1.9 and 2.1 PSI which was the goal. When the pressure reaches 2.1 it pushes the water down and the air/ozone mixture comes out of the release valve into a small carbon chamber and into the fuge. This reduces the internal pressure to 1.9 psi and the water rises slightly. It stays pretty much about 1/4 of an inch to 1 inch above the bottom plate.

 

The water runs through the Ozone Reactor, into the Nextreef Media Reactor with a mix of FFAquatics Carbon and GFO media. Right now the tank reads 300 mV for ORP and the goal is to achieve 400-420. I am running the Ozone Generator at 10-20% (5 to 10 mg/h) while I am testing and will slowly increase up to the max 50mg/h out of the generator.

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Nice. Try putting a piece of silicone tubing on the exit of your carbon air filter and running it below the water level in your sump (you might need to zip tie a plumbing fitting on it to get it to sink) that should make the whistling go away. Nice for the video though since the sound gives you a better since of what is going on. No doubt that answered sailfintangs question about why the "air" filter needs to be placed above the sump though :P

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Excellent vid Boret. That really makes a clear picture of what we are trying to do with these reactors. I agree with Dan on the tubing into the sump from the carbon filter. You will probably get a fair amount of bubbles into the sump so I would make sure it goes into the appropriate section. Othe than that the reactor looks great.

 

Should be putting mine together in the next two weeks once the holidays have passed.

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Thanks guys. I think the video helps get a better idea of how it works.

6 days of straight operation without a problem. The PVC cement is holding up fine for the little hole on the top union.

My ORP is steadily rising, it reached 315 yesterday from a 280 value when I started using the reactor.

I was already using the UV, but with the Ozone I have achieved a new level of water clarity. I don't use filtersocks or any type of mechanical filtration and the mere use of the Ozone has eliminated virtually any trace of specs and particles in the water.

 

I placed a longer tube out of the relief valve effluent carbon filter and I stuck it inside the macro algae a few inches below the water line in the fuge. That has eliminated the whistling sound. The bubbles out of the tube go to the top and break right away, without forming add any microbubbles whatsoever.

 

So far I am thrilled with the device. It will take a while to see the benefits.

 

I am now at 75% output out of the Ozone generator (I started at around 25%) which means 37.5mg/h. I will eventually go to 100% (50mg/h).

 

The only issue is the silica beads container, the air-dryer. Neither one was manufactured to support high pressure operation. The one that came with the RedSeas, this one:

 

RS3693_99.jpg

 

would pop open, the good news is that it works great as the carbon filter for the relief valve effluent. I am not sure it is Ozone safe, because it is supposed to run before the Ozone reactor to dry the air coming into the reactor corona. I will see if it degrades. It would seem silly for Red Seas to make it of a material that is not ozone safe... but you never know.

 

The other air-dryer:

 

air-dryer.jpg

 

Holds the pressure a bit better because the caps at both ends screw in. Still, I had to apply a liberal amount of Teflon tape to keep the air from escaping. I think I still lose a bit of air pressure from the luft pump. It is rated at 7psi and I can only get barely above 2psi inside the chamber. Not that I need anymore than that per Dan's calculations, but it would be nice to know that I can go higher if needed.

 

I will probably end up using Bulk Reef Supply's Air Dryer:

 

manual-di-drier.jpg

 

Or just build one with a filter housing from AirWaterIce.com which is way cheaper.

 

housing_clear_filter.jpg

Edited by Boret

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Thanks kngfisher.

 

With the aim of 50 to 100 gph out of the Ozone reactor I think I would be better off getting a smaller media reactor to filter with active Carbon the effluent from the O3. Nextreef sells a shorty that might be the perfect complement for the GSA Ozone Reactor.

That way I can put the regular media reactor on a different output and get the media fluidized.

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Well I am new to the boards but this is the best DIY build for a ozone reactor I have seen. I am in the process of doing my own also and wanted a few tips.

 

This is what I plan on running....

 

Corallife Luft Pump

BRS Air Dryer

Sanders 25mg/hr

DIY Ozone reactor being fed from a MJ or mini-jet

Shorty Media reactor w/ ROX carbon

Then to my sump

 

My tank is only 50ish gallons. I plan one using left over 3/8's acrylic for the top and bottom base. 3" Cast Acrylic Tube 13" tall, SS 0-15 PSI gauge, 1/2 inlet and outlet, two 1/4 inlet for ozone and 1/4 pressure relief for excess pressure/ozone running into a carbon filter. I will be using the bio-bale material as this looks like the most promising material.

 

My few Q's, the pressure relief for the excess pressure/ozone, will there be some water running through this or should it be completely dry? The Luft pump is adjustable I should be running it around 3-5 psi? Also should I have a line running to the bottom of the reactor from the inlet of ozone so it reacts longer with the water?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

-Dave

 

I will post on here my updates if you dont mind.

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