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dchild

Auto topoff - relay + float swtich

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No plans to repeat. I have looked periodically and am having trouble finding the transformers we used. For your "stuck" flost switch, what happened is you pushed too much current through it and it sort of spot welded itself closed. 9/10 of the time you can fix them by smacking it pretty hard with a screwdriver or pair of pliers. If you try it and it doesn't work, hit it harder! If it doesn't work it's still broken, right?

 

You need a relay to limit the current fowing through the switch. The easiest/cheapest way is to use a 120V relay from radio shack. I believe the $60 coralife units do just that. The ones we built are a little better in that they run only 5VDC through the float switch.

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No plans to repeat.  I have looked periodically and am having trouble finding the transformers we used.  For your "stuck" flost switch, what happened is you pushed too much current through it and it sort of spot welded itself closed.  9/10 of the time you can fix them by smacking it pretty hard with a screwdriver or pair of pliers.  If you try it and it doesn't work, hit it harder!  If it doesn't work it's still broken, right?

 

You need a relay to limit the current fowing through the switch.  The easiest/cheapest way is to use a 120V relay from radio shack.  I believe the $60 coralife units do just that.  The ones we built are a little better in that they run only 5VDC through the float switch.

44625[/snapback]

 

 

yeah when i had a little pump attached i had no problem with it working but when i put that rio 3100 on it, it got stuck. It was def my bad! Ill try hitting it though

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Word to the wise, energize w/ a Maxijet 600 or smaller for top off from a resevoir. No Rio. Rio advised against setting their pump up for on/off cycle situations.

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I asked Roger of Tunze what makes their feed mode work. His reply was as follows:

 

Roger,

Do you know what electronic component cuts the power off on the Tunze 7094 multi controller during the feed mode. I am looking for a similar component for a DIY water level controller to keep my sump pump from burning up as described in this topic on the WAMAS website:

 

It is more complicated than that, basically when you hit the button, it charges a capacitor and the capacitor feeds a chip that regulates the pump signal, when the capacitor runs out of power the pumps restart.

 

 

Does his reply help make any sense as far as something that would work for us :idea2: ?

 

 

Also, someone at RC mentioned that I probably should use an optical sensor on the main display. Are they supposed to be less sensitive than the magnetic float switches?

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