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Auto topoff - relay + float swtich


dchild

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dchild,

 The way i do it is to get a standard DC adapter and power the relay control circuit.

 

If the relay is 5V DC, we can get those $4 Ac-Dc 6V adapter, open and stick

in the 5V 7805. That should take care of it.

 

Wow. This thread has exploded since this AM.

I can join and show how to do it as well. I need to do one for my self and have

been procrastinating due to busy schedule at work.

 

-krish

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Hey Steven, nice to meet you!

 

Guys either way is fine, 9th at my house is fine or at Jacobs?

I can't offer the big screen and might be less dust and more room at Jacobs?

 

BTW, I have a small list of things that I'm trying to accomplish before I get there:

#1 Finish my Aquarium Center "closet" on opposite wall where my 90g will be placed, including electrical wiring, framing, drywalling, etc...actually might be by tonight for this part!

#2 Setup 29g Sump/Refugium, got material to make dividers, etc. Hope to do by this weekend.

#3 Finish up Downdraft Skimmer via Chip, hopefully before Christmas

#4 Setup above including Kalk Reactor and ALL electrical connections, cords, boxes etc, again before Christmas

#5 BUILD new higher stand

#6 BUILD new canopy, see other post

#7 Move 90g into place...was leaning on the 9th [ws]

#8 Build topsoffs on the 9th

 

No problems mate!  tng

So I do have openings for DIY Parties at my house ANY Night someone is up for it?

Howard

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Neater -> one plug -> true.

 

I should have read ALL the nano-reef post for the explaination, sorry.

 

I guess its up to group if we do a "party" to decide on the power supply style. Either way, I'd like at least to participate, though I may just get some float switches. Even though only $5 for parts, I have them all here in the lab. More beer $$.

 

Doug

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Ok Jakes house works for me- I'll bring the beer. We just need to finalize the design and have someone order enough to cover how many kits we want to put together.
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It doesn't matter to me if people wish to use wall warts or build their own - I don't think it will add appreciable complexity to build the power supply.  My inclination is to order the same components for all.  I think it will be less confusing to have everyone looking at the same thing rather than miscellaneous donated components - plus it makes ordering easier.

 

OK here are the things we will need regardless of power options:

 

float switches - $6 ea

5VDC 10A relay - $1.49

7805 regulator - $0.34

PCB (printed circuit board) - $1.60

cord (I cut cheap extension cords) ~$2

blue plastic box or other enclosure ~$0.75

duplex outlet + cover ~$1

 

power option #1 wall wart:

6V ac/dc supply $3-4

 

power option #2 DIY:

Bridge Rectifier - $0.34

1000uF capacitor - $0.16

transformer, (120VAC - 10VAC, 120mA) - $2.95

 

and we will need the following as general supplies

soldering irons (I have one.  dbartco?)

solder (I'd need to buy another roll)

hookup wire (I have Red, Green, Black 22AWG solid) - (Carribean Jake?  )

wire cutters

needle nose pliers

wire strippers

surface to solder on (peice of plywood or an area that could potentially be burned or have little flecks of solder attached)

if anyone has alligator clips they'd be nice

 

Anyone walking away with one of these will also need a powerhead to pump their topoff water.

 

I don't mind fronting for the electronic components if someone else will take the float switches.  Cheapest shipping is USPS priority, so I'd like to place the order on Jan 1 or 2 to make  sure it will be here in time

 

Lee, I'm a big fan of Dominion Ale, Sierra Nevada Pale and Sam's Winter Lager  [ws]  [beer2]

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Ok, I knew i was good for something in this lash up- consider beer covered. I have wire cutters and soldering iron etc. and a small sheet of plywood to work on that I can throw in the trunk.
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Lee,

You don't need to bring a piece of wood, Jacob has a nice flat surface to work on, has a kind of soft green felt covering it, with six holes to work around, but should be fine, cue it up!  :D

I have wire cutters, needle nose pliers, wire strippers myself and can order the topoffs as soon as we have a head count?

Howard-2

Doug-1 or 2?

Lee 2?

Jacob-2?

Krish-1 or 2?

Stephen 2?

More?

Howard

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HA I am sure Jacob would be happy to have us use that surface...

 

I have an opportunity to design a custom circuit board for this (the DIY power option) so all the components will be plug and play.  At $0.55 per sq in, if anything it will save us a few cents, make the job a lot easier, and look much nicer :D I will need to order by the 21st though and will be unable to add additional boards later.

 

I'll grab one (I don't need a float switch btw Howard) so I have:

 

Howard, Doug, Lee, Jacob, Krish, Stephen (by this did you mean me Howard?)

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Would love to help out building. I have a decent Hako and Weller soldering station I can bring for branding WAMAS into our shoulders for the "DIY club" initiation. At the very least we can melt some sort of logo onto Jake's table. May need a lot of beer for Jake.

 

I hate to sound like a stick in the mud, but I think I will take care of my own electronics, but would really love to get in on the float switch order - 2 please. Sounds like the board idea is really the way to go, just can't justify it for myself.

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Folks,

I like the custom PCB idea. Its extra soldering work, but is a neat solution.

 

There are a number of folks that i know of who would need it and we have not

raised awareness yet.

 

I would go in for at least 1 or 2 units.

Luke( craby) and Kannan will need 1 each as well.

So that makes it a total of 4.

 

Btw, we need acrylic stip to mount the float switches and

slide the main and back up switches and lock them in

notches.

 

I can just imagine Chips setup, but wont break into his

busy holiday schedule.

 

I have accomplished the same using 1/2" PVC tubing. Not

great in terms of looks, but has been working fine for a

year now. It can be locked to the rim of the sump.

 

I have a soldering gun that i can bring  on.

 

-krish

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I want to make two top -off units.  I need two flow switches.  Who is buying them?

 

Ok here are the directions to my house.  address:

13401 Alfred Mill CT,  Herndon, VA  20171

and if you get lost call 703.437.8189

 

Take 7100 - Fairfax County Parkway

(South if coming from Toll Road, or North if coming from Springfield)

Turn into West Ox Road (Right if coming from Toll Road, or Left if coming from Springfield)

Continue about 1.3 miles and look for Floris Lane on the left hand side. Turn left into Floris Lane.

Turn right into Alfred Mill CT.

House sits on corner of Floris Lane and Alfred Mill CT. (13401)

If you want you can use Map Quest for better directions.

 

The table may be available if you all can turn into a working 600 Gallon aquarium... but of course that will be out of the questions on this turn around.  Either way I have two folding tables we can work on as well as drill, pliers, needles, cutters, etc.  Also got enough 18 gage wire to go around.  And the big screen is 64" so enough viewing screen for everyone.

 

One more thing.  I need two flow switches, Who is buying them?

 

Let's plan for Jan 9th at 1:00 PM.  Is that OK>?

 

Jacob

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For numbers sake I would like two units as well-- never know when I will be back down this road, second aquarium? 9 Jan works for me Jake
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Hey guys,

head count so far?

Howard-2

Doug-2

Lee-2

Jacob-2

Krish- 2

Stephen 1

Chip-1

Luke-1

Kannan-1

Total so far-14

I would like to get in the PCB as well, if cost is around $5?, I might be willing to make 2 as a backup if that is so?

Is the Topoffs from http://www.floatswitches.net/floatswitch.html

I've seen Bill an email on volume discount and shipping times to get to us by the 9th. I can take care of the order for these unless someone else is already on it?

Here's another link for suggestions btw: http://www.californiareefs.com/forsale.htm

Howard

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Howard

I say go ahead an place the order, you know that with the Holidays it may take few extra days and we want to schedule this for 1/9/5.  What other equipment/material you think we need?  I got the 18 gage and can get 22 or 24 gage if necessary as well as 16 or 14 gage wire.  LMK

 

Jacob

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Guys,

We may have a problem, I've emailed both of the website addresses and both came back non-deliverable?

billbr@glade.net Connection denied. Listed in deny list

bill@floatswitches.net reason: can't create (user) output file

Any suggestions or other contact information?

I hate to send $84.00 to someone not responsible enough to run a clean business?

Suggestions?

Howard

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hmm.. I have bought twice from this guy and both times he shipped quickly.  I think I emailed him once but did not get a reply.  I agree with you howard about running a clean business; he does have a good price though.  marinedepot only sells the ultralife system (FWIW the one we're building here will have the same power handling and probably lower voltage through the switch at less than half price).  Here are some alternate links:

 

http://www.fluidswitch.com/pages/fs01.htm $9.50

http://www.liquidlevel.com/products_components.asp $12

http://www.actsensors.com/miniature_float_switch_1000.htm (need quote)

http://www.deeter.co.uk/usa_category_pages/50Series.htm $12.90

 

Perhaps the best approach would be a test order?  Buy one and see how it goes?  I have bought from him before, and reefcentral is full of people who have.

 

I have sent the schematic and part #s off to my father (who has the software to lay out the PCB, and through whom I am coordinating the order), so we'll see how big it is, which will determine price.  I anticipate < $5.

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Darn it.

The last time, i got 4 from him. Used 2 and gave 2 to another reefer.

 

Folks, each of you would need 2 switches for a single system.

 

I have 2. I have seen it get stuck on 2 occassions in my 1 year use.

Instance 1) It got stuck with algae clogging the lower one. The backup one would have

protected it, if i had not caught it after the water got over the first switch.

 

Instance 2) Salt/Calcium creep on the stem cause friction and the switch getting stuck

in the high position. So the water level dropped and no top off happened.

 

So a back up is always better.

 

-krish

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Folks,

I not worried about a couple of dollars per unit, you "electronic gurus" vote your best option and lets go for it?

I've sent a email to Paypal to contact the vendor to have him contact us. If that doesn't work, I guess we could go to plan B and select an alternative that you guys figure will work the best?

Howard

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I got pricing with volume discount for $15.35 each plus $7 shipping for all 14 units.

http://www.liquidlevel.com/products_switches_standard_vt_LS-204.asp

Question, do we need Normally open or closed setups?

 

FS01-0011 .7x.75 Polypropylene NO Switch, M8x1.25 BH 50 Watt .5 Amps 220 Vdc  90 C 25 0.8 $ 9.50

FS01-0111 .7x.75 Polypropylene NC Switch, M8x1.25 BH 50 Watt .5 Amps 220 Vdc  90 C 25 0.8 $ 9.50

 

Sent a quote request for www.actsenors.com unit

 

Deeter is a United Kingdom company, shipping would be too high!

 

Howard

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correct me if I'm wrong... but I believe the "normal" operation refers to the "no water" state - so you want Normally Closed.  Even if I'm wrong, on that style of float switch you can usually reverse the float to switch operation, and we can also use the other side of the relay (these are double throw, so we can select NO or NC on the relay itself).  Also, we shouldn't have to worry about the switch ratings; we will be running 5VDC @ ~80mA, <.5W through it.  I think all of those switches are rated at least an order of magnitude above that.

 

I am thinking of adding two peices to the layout.  For safety's sake we should have a fuse on the mains supply, and we should have a connection to the board such as a terminal block (screw connection), otherwise we'll have to solder all wires to the board.  This will add $2-4 to the component cost.  Also I am not sure how we ought to mount the board to the case.  I can get standoffs/screws and I have a drill, however a glob of Goop on 2 corners would probably work just as well.

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Folks,

The float switches are available on ebay. However, the seller is in Shangai.

He seems to be the manufacturer.

Well, either way, it won't arrive on time for the project.

 

-krish

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