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DIY Ca and Kalk reactors


michaelg

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ahhhh, sorry

 

FWIW, 44 drops per min was too much, cut it back to 38.

 

It's tough to do this, already starting to want for a dosing pump.

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Guest HVF21221

Here is a thread about the Kalk Reactor I built. It has an internal circulating pump to avoid the many leaks most reactors have. No holes drilled through tube to leak. No power head to leak on the floor, I saw one picture the guy had the power head completely covered in silicone sealant. I hope this works I never copied a thread before.

 

http://www.cmas-md.org/cgi-bin....al+pump

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Guest HVF21221
I have built a second reactor and have taken many photos on the construction. I hope to make a whole thread, step by step soon. I will post when I do. Howard
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Guest HVF21221
Unfortunately I am stuck at work. I plan to work on the thread during the long weekend. Remember, don't use Ball's pickling lime in any of the recirculating reactors. The stuff is very coarse and likes to munch on plastic impellors. I would imagine it is very abrasive on magnetic stirrers also. IMO the cost savings is not worth it in the long run.  Howard
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Guest Kimo

Grav, check out those clark pumps I posted about - They really are great and I can help you make an enclosure if you decide to get one.  

 

If we buy a number of them I'd imagine they would give us a discount.  Building the enclosures would also be a good DIY project.  

 

J

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A powerhead is fine for mixing- and a lot cheaper.  The mag stirrer, though, should never need service, as it is completely outside the reactor.  A teflon coated stir bar goes on the inside of the reactor.  It is more expensive.  

Howard- I thought it was Mrs. Wages pickling lime that had issues and that Ball's was OK?  I don't run a true kalkreactor though- just use kalkwasser for topoff with a float switch running a powerhead.  I've never had probs with pH swings from this, FWIW.  

 

Grav- one thing to keep in mind with the drip rate- as water level in container drops, force will drop also (less "pressure" from the water), so the drip rate will slow.  If you base it on the full level, should be OK.

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I have a float switch in a quiet area of my sump. I have a 30g trash can mixed with kalk as a resevior and a powerhead attached to tubing that runs up to my overflow box. Float drops, kicks on power to powerhead in 30g and it pumps water to the overflow box. That water flows right into the sump raising the water level and float switch which shuts it off. It totals about a cup at a time as it needs it.

If we're looking to sneek in a kalk reactor between to resevior I like it.

Chip

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The kalk reactor would go best in between your reservoir and sump.  Then your reservoir would be fresh water and the reactor would house the kalk and mix twice or three times a day for a few minutes... whatever you have the timer set for.  I put about a full 16oz. bottle of pickling lime in mine.  It theoretically will last approximately 2tbsp/gallon.  I have no idea how many tbsp are in 16oz, but topoff dependant it lasts a while for most people.
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I built my Nilsen reactor a couple years ago at a club building party at my house.  It uses a powerhead to mix the kalk.  I have it hooked up using quick release fittings, making it easy to remove and then refill with kalk.  The top has three old fittings in it for 1/4" tubing which are not used anymore.  Only the top one is used to bleed off air after closing it up.

 

This design came from a mix of the designs Michael posted. I'll take more pictures when I reload the kalk.  The stiring powerhead is on a digital timer set to run for 1 minute every three hours every day.  Keeps it mixed well and minimizes the destruction on the impellar.  Seems to need a new impellar about annually, which I call pretty maintenance free.

 

Nilsen sitting next to 20G Brute bucket for reservoir.  Note the solenoid to stop the siphon and the powerhead are both controlled by a relay switch (from lifereef.com):

 

img_2941 nilsen and tank.jpg

 

I use a MJ1200 in the bottom of the 20G reservoir to pump the water.  Flow is slow and gentle.  Just about perfect against head pressure and back pressure through the system.

 

img_2942 powerhead.jpg

 

 

Here's the lifereef float switch in my sump...

 

img_2944 float switch.jpg

 

steve

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Guest mmcaleer

As for cutting a circular grove for the "O" ring you can make a simple jig and use a router.  Show me what the dimensions are and I could come up with something.

 

Count me in for the building party.

 

Mike

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Will there still be a Ca reactor part of this party, or will it be entirely devoted to Kalk reactors?
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Guest Wombat

I'm also be interested in the Calcium reactor part of this party.

 

8-]]

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Saw this on RC-for peristaltic pumps

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums....=396858

 

We need some calcium reactor designs- here are some.....

http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/diycareactor.htm

http://www.homestead.com/geosreef/reactordiy.html

I really like this one from dj88

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=144438

or here http://www.melevsreef.com/dj88.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums....reactor

See one by Pikey

Sanjay's reactor

http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty....o3.html

 

One last one with easy to find parts???

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=2565519   and

http://reefcentral.com/forums....ewpost,

 

Personally, I think building DJ88's design would rock.  Read through the thread to get some insight into some of the design concepts.  Also, it is all made from sheet- no tubing needed.

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Guest Kimo

I would liek to caution people - I have heard about problems with IV dosing pumps and kalkwasser reactors.  The electronic sensor that monitors the drip rate can have some problems with the kalk solution.

 

Just something I recall from my search for a p. pump.

 

J

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I would liek to caution people - I have heard about problems with IV dosing pumps and kalkwasser reactors.  The electronic sensor that monitors the drip rate can have some problems with the kalk solution.

 

Just something I recall from my search for a p. pump.

 

J

This is only a problem if you use the dosing pump to pull the kalk directly.  If you put the dosing pump to pull from RO/DI water reservoir then force through the reactor, the issue goes away.

 

Good:

  RO/DI -> dosing pump -> Nilsen reactor -> sump

 

Bad:

  RO/DI -> Nilsen reactor -> dosing pump -> sump

 

Essentially the kalk clouds up the tubing, etc., so medical drip pumps will not see the drip.

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Personally, I think building DJ88's design would rock.  
 I agree.  The square design gives more reactor volume in a smaller footprint as well.
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Howard- that is some NICE work.  I like the design a lot, and very very clean work.

Michael

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Guest HVF21221

Thanks Michael. I like the fact everything is inside and it won't leak. Also if in the future the power head dies it should be a 15 minute replacement job.

Howard

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Guest Kimo

Wow - I have to agree with Michael - great design!!  Maybe this is one we need to look at for the building party.

 

J

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OK seems most who are interested in this are now present and accounted for.  One of you kalk guys want to make a poll for reactor design so you guys can vote?  Then a parts list can be generated.

 

Dave, seems you, wombat, and I are up for building a calcium reactor.  While I have one, there are some real issues with it, and this shouldn't break the bank is parts.  Maybe we can meet over lunch a couple days and work out the pieces to put this lego set together?

 

Wombat- you OK with that design?  It is the dj88 one.

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