DIY Ca and Kalk reactors

[michaelg]

As announced at the meeting, we are trying to arrange a building party for the above equipments with TRT.  We need volunteers for design plans.

 

First we need to know who is serious about doing this. AND volunteers to work out designs.  I can CONTRIBUTE to the design review.  Idea is that we will have parts mostly ready to go- assemble at TRT.  Cutting the tubing could be done by 1 person with proper tools.  Cost would be for parts/materials.  You assemble your own.

[Guest clownfish4]

You have any idea how much it will cost?

[Caribbean Jake]

I have no idea on a design, but surely I'm willing to bild one if the cost is reasonable.  Count me in as a volunteer.

Jacob

[Guest clownfish4]

I don't know if I would be a good designer, but have seen many DIY plans for this project.  I will also build one if the cost is reasonable.

[mogurnda]

Assuming I'm in town, I will be there.  I plan to set up a DIY Ca reactor, so I'll either do it at TRT, or on my own. With no experience, my input with regard to design is pretty meaningless.  It will be very valuable to know which designs have worked well for people.

[Guest Kimo]

If cost is reasonable, I too will be interested in a nilsen reactor!

 

Jamie

[Grav]

I love it.  I would be in to build for sure.  Nilson if I have to choose, both if possible.  

 

With no experiance building them, unless someone steps up and claims to have a solid design, my only thought is to go to one of the big national forums and DIY planning areas and get someone elses opinion.

 

Phil

[flowerseller]

I too would be interested in a kalk reactor, if it's for auto top off and

not gravity/ drip.  I'm already making an upflow CA reactor.

Chip

[Guest Kimo]

Does anyone have a circle cutter for making o-ring grooves?  That would be groovy (I'm so sorry...)

 

For the kalk reactor, does anyone have a connection for reasonably prices magnetic stirrers?  Michael??

 

J :p

[michaelg]

kalk reactor designs.  Some photos only, but you will get the jist.  These are pretty simple, unless we put a powerhead for mixing on the outside.  I will hunt around for stir plates, as these would require far less maintanance.  This should get us started.  FWIW, when looking at pricing these things, using a powerhead will be far cheaper than a stir plate- though will also require regular cleaning of the powerhead.  Some form of dosing system will also be needed to feed the reactor with fresh water.  In deciding on a design, the top should be easily removed to add more powder when it runs low.  Another option for keeping cost down, is to make only a section of the reactor acrylic, and the rest PVC.  Same can be done with a calcium reactor.  Some plans for those will come tomorrow.

I didn't do a search to find these from RC.  Someone should hunt through there- I used google.  Key words were either Nielsen Reactor or DIY Kalk reactor.

 

Michael

 

http://www.ecotechmarine.com/

http://translate.google.com/transla....&u=http

http://www.reeftek.com/Nilsen_Reactor.htm

http://ozreef.org/diy/calcium_reactor_ca(oh)2.html

http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/nilsen.html

http://www.kingvinnie.com/aquaria/diy/links_page.asp?cat=23 (lots of plans on this site)

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/3389/reeftank/nilsen.html

http://jjgeisler.com/reeftank/diy_do_it_yourself_projects.htm

 

This should get you guys started.  BTW- I'm not building one, but will probably come to finish out my calcium reactor I started a long time ago.  Won't use it until a future tank, as it is pretty big.

 

Michael

[xeon]

I have a Reeftek that I like quite a bit.  It uses a powerhead for stirring which to date has not been a problem.   Maintenance isn't difficult either.  To get the pump off you just twist the MJ600 and take it off.. of course the reactor has to be empty to do this.  

 

I put together a short list of parts.  It may be missing an item or two btw, but should be fairly complete.  Off the top of my head I'm thinking cost might come in around $80 or so.  It also needs some machining, which if someone has the right equipment should not be too bad.  I could be off on my job costing, but still a savings over buying one.  

 

• 1 - 18" section of 6" acrylic tubing
  
  • 1/4 or 1/8" thickness? 1/8" is more cost effective
    

   

  [*]2 - 8" acrylic circles for top flanges (~ 3/8 to 1/4" thickness) - I also have a template for who ever might tackle this - I would suggest a router for this.  

  • stock can be sourced from local scrap bins
    
  • one flange with an inside cutout (5 3/4"), gasket groover, drilled and tapped for thumb screws
    
  • option to gasket groove could be flat gasket(no gasket groove)
    
  • maybe keyhole flange the cover disc? (would make it nice for refilling/maintenance)
    
  • drill and tap cover disc for threaded John Guest fittings
    

   

  [*]8 - nylon thumb screws

   

  [*]2 - John Guest fittings

  • water output; ball valve (one end m-threaded; other quick disconnect)
    
  • water input; male threaded
    

   

  [*]Misc Items

  • acrylic pieces for base (can be sourced from local scrap bins for peanuts)
    
    • 2 sides, one platform, four right triangles for corner support
      

    [*]- CPVC pieces for intake and pump

    • 1/2 pipe
      
    • 2 - female threaded adapter (w/ rubber gaskets)
      
    • 45 degree elbow
      

    [*]two barb fittings

    [*]flex tubing to connect recirc. pump (MJ600)

    [*]hose clamps to clamp flex tubing

    [*]thread taps for flange nuts and John Guest fittings

    [*]Weldon #4

    [*]Weldon #16 or collection of shavings mixed with Weldon #4

    [*]maybe Plastic Welder from Wal-Mart to supplement #4 on tube to base and top flange (Jorge from Reeftek claims the plastic will break before it will fail)

    [*]pipe thread tape (for threaded fittings)

    [*]1/4" polyethylene tubing for feed/output(10ft. each person - safe estimate)

 

After all this you need a way to feed it, some Kalk/P. Lime and the mixing pump of course.  I may or may not be able to attend the DIY party, it all depends on when and what I have on my plate.  

[OUsnakebyte]

I'm in for the DIY party, and of course a "reasonable" cost (whatever that is...) is a factor.

 

Unfortunately, I have to claim ignorance on best designs, methods, parts, etc.  Someone's gonna have to hold my hand through all this.  I can do an RC search later, but xeon's post looks pretty thorough.

 

Cheers

[Lee Stearns]

Xeon- You are the man on this- Sounds like we wait till you are avialable- All you need is someone that will take the lead on ordering enough stuff to make X number of kits- X being the number of people who will commit to showing up. I will show for building a neilson.

Regards,

Lee

[Grav]

I saw a dose pump in a national aquarium catalog put out by a couple of quacks for about $80.  

 

No disrespect to the quacks.

[GaryL]

Grav I resemble those remarks :p no disrespect taken  Im in for the build party, any idea when that would be?

[Caribbean Jake]

Ok, you can count me in for the party.  $80 for the reactor sound reasonable to me.

Jacob

[flowerseller]

Xeon,

Do you use a float switch in your sump for water additions?

I'm hoping to make a kalk reactor to pass my evap replacement water through

on it's way to the sump.

Chip

[Sph2sail]

Chip, I use a float switch to regulate flow through my Nilsen reactor.  Some observations:

 

- Fans and heat from lights increase the evaporation cycle

- pH will climb throughout the day because of kalk flowing at a relatively high rate to make up the water

- pH will drop quite a bit overnight, as the evaporation rate at night is lower and the tank naturally heads more acid in the night period anyway

 

I spent about $150 on my float switch and the solenoid to control the anti-siphon aspects of the system.  Compare this to a good peristaltic pump solution at about $240.

 

I think the key difference is that the peristaltic pump solution will put the kalk in evenly over the 24hr period, moderating the pH swings.  You could use a float switch without a solenoid in concert with a peristaltic pump to make sure your water level stays consistent (not to exceed a certain level).

 

s

[HowardofNOVA]

Guys, Count me in!

I'll be out of town from 2-11Jul in FL, 16-18Jul in PA. Other than that, I will be there!

I have some tools, saw-saw, circular saws, jigsaw, etc that I could bring as well.

Howard

[xeon]

Chip,

I use a dosing pump.  I have found the weak point there to be the tubing sets, specifically the tubing that gets massaged by the rollers.  I bought some tubing the other day that is supposed to outlast the standard tubing by "30 times".  I should be able to report whether this is true or not after a period of time, 30 times three weeks would work for me.  Half of that would make me real happy...  I also had an epiphany about disabling the alarms on the dosing pumps... it doesn't make sense to me.  When the flow alarm goes off, the pump is hardly pushing water if any.  I'd like to know when this is happening or rather what is not happening.  I do like the constant drip and my top off needs are a little over a gallon per day which fits in the 300ml/hr. max rate.  The max rate equates to about 1.9 gallons per day btw for  a 300ml/hr. pump.  You can use larger tubing to get higher output, but of course the rate on the display will not be correct.  US Plastics sells different sized tubing for peristaltic pumps if you go with a peristaltic pump of some kind.        

 

Top off or feeding can be done any number of ways.  What Steve mentioned would work, you could even use a peristaltic pump in place of a power head in my upcoming suggestion.  

 

If your water would be coming from a topoff reservoir of some sort I might suggest this.  Use a small reliable powerhead and a float switch; maybe two swtiches for some fault tolerance.  By reliable you would want something you could depend on turning on as needed... IMO no RIO's.  I would think something like a Mini-Jet 606 or 404 might be a good fit for something like this.  I'm not sure if the head height be a problem with them, but I imagine if they did work it would be a very low flow w/ a reliable small pump.    

 

The powerhead/pump would sit in the topoff reservoir w/ an output to the reactor.  I would suggest using a relay.  The reasoning here is two fold, one the float switches only handle up to say 50W (not a problem with a MJ) and number two the relay puts 12VDC on the switch as opposed to 110VAC.  It can be done for around $30 or you could forego the relay.  Cost then would be your float switch/es, extension cord, pump if you don't have one on hand and some way to mount it in your sump.  If the tolerances of the switch/es are exceeded they will fail though.  One other though that came to me was on the reactor design I suggested there is a ball valve on the output so one could tune the output somewhat if needed.      

 

It might make better sense to do it a different way depending on how you are setup.  I guess the question is how would/does your water get to your sump?

[flowerseller]

This may not be for me then. I use a 30g can and fill it with DI water and I use reagent calcium hydroxide which

I mix in with another powerhead on a timer. Every 2 or so hrs this powerhead stirs up the vat. When ever the tank needs

water, the float switch drops and another PH pumps this vat water into the tank till the float floats and shuts it off. It's too easy this way

and seems to work well for me. I was hoping to find a better contraption but I'll still need my reservoir for evap. I'll think.

[Grav]

Jake,

 

That is $80 for just the dose pump.... note the conversation on dose v. float switch.

 

The next big cost is the magnetic stirring contraption. The need for which, I don't understand. First of all, woudn't the gentle flow of water in (especally if directed toward the bottom of the chamber) be enough to disolve the lime?  Second, if the smallest of powerheads is what, $8 why do we need something that goes for $100?  Just to save the need to ever clean a powerhead?  Don't we do that all the time anyway?

 

 

So, all this talk got me motivated.  I'll be away for a week for the 4th.  With the upgraded lighting, and then the fan that was added to keep temps down, I need to make up a lot of evap in my little 33g.... so....

 

Pause for drama,

 

I rigged up a $5 Kalk reactor, no it doesn't "look good" or "fancy" or even "kinda nice" and it is totally gravity (Grav) powered.  I don't know how well it will work as far as adding Kalk goes, but it should keep my salinity levels close.

 

So here is what I did.

5 Gal water jug filled with water and on a shelf above tank level. A hard line keeps the intake at the bottom of the jug, connected to a regular airline to a valve then another airline tube feeds into 2 liter bottle.  Lines going in and and out of this "chamber" via holes drilled in the cap (sealed with silicone.) This "chamber" will be "twisted" once a day or so when I am around... if for no other reason, to make me feel as valuable as that ridiculious stirring contraption. Coming out of the 2L bottle is more air line tubing, and another valve, which drips right into the tank into the water return from the HOB filter.

 

Most of drip rate control will be done on the 1st valve between the 5gal jug and the 2L bottle.  The theory is that since this is clean RODI it will be less likley to clog, the 2nd valve is used to fine tune the drip rate, and is just about wide open.

 

I had it at about 44 drops / min about an hour ago, which I think may be too much but the water level hasn't gone up yet, and I have a pretty good way of tracking the water level.  Should have time to fine tune it before leaving on Friday.

 

Updates later.

 

Still wanna build a real one.

 

Phil

[Guest Kimo]

as far as using a powerhead or such as a dosing pump, You must be sure that you won't start a siphon when the pump shuts off - Using either a solenoid or a peristaltic pump or something.  

 

AS far as peristaltic pumps, it's not hundreds of dollars.  With a little DIY here's a solution:

 

http://www.clarksol.com/html/prodspecsM045Pump.htm

 

just call and ask for chuck.  Tell him what it's for.  $76 when I ordered (8 months ago).

 

These pumps are GREAT!  

 

J

[Grav]

Jamie,

 

Not saying a powerhead for dosing.... was saying to use it to stir the calk.

 

Gotta use a dose pump, right?

[Guest Kimo]

I was more directing my comments towards Steve - There are peristaltic pump solutons that are good for far less that $240.

 

J