michaelg January 28, 2003 Share January 28, 2003 I know several out there have drilled tanks in the back without an overflow. What is the trick to this? I did it on my minirefugium on the 10 gallon tank, and while it works, I had to run an airline into it. How did you configure the bulkhead- inside the tank, and outside? Elbows anywhere? I saw a durso type thing on the outside of a tank on RC, do people do this and does it prevent sucking? I've also seen an elbow on the inside angled at about 45 degrees up. What is the rule of thumb on bulkhead size for the drain in such a configuration? Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty January 29, 2003 Share January 29, 2003 I've got two 1" bulkheads. There's a 90deg elbow inside that rotates to adjust the water depth in the tank. Currently they're both turned about 20deg to one side. They both have the basket cone strainers on top also. I don't get any sucking sounds from mine. All I hear is the water flowing down the tubes. The only time I get sucking sounds is when I remove the cones and water rushes out, then once the level stabilizes, the sucking goes away and there's just a relatively quiet water flow sound. I can get some pictures tonight if anyone's interested. mc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cbo January 29, 2003 Share January 29, 2003 Sure, I'd love to see some pictures. cbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KABALA January 29, 2003 Share January 29, 2003 I have a single 1" bulkhead as well with a 90 elbow, One thing that I noticed on my tank, not sure if Marty ran into the same thing, but I used the cone strainer that came with the bulkhead and just sat it in the elbow. I noticed oil slicks a lot from surface build up. So, I cut out maybe three rows of the circular ribs on the strainer and now I have great surface motion and it acts as a skimmer of sorts. Also, I put the outlet end half way in and out of the sump level and I actually have almost zero sound. If you turn the skimmer off all I hear is the return pump humming. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelg January 29, 2003 Author Share January 29, 2003 So - that brings another question- return line completely submergered, or elbowed so partially submerged. I currently use a 45 degree on the end of the pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest reeftanklfs January 30, 2003 Share January 30, 2003 Hi Michael: If I may add, just like Marty stated, you'll be using elbows inside and out. However, the sucking sounds are made because the return pump is moving water thru the system at such a rate that there is'nt smooth (I forgot the physics term) flow thru the bulkhead. To slow the water velocity at the bulkhead, plumb a ball valve somewhere on the return side of the return pump. To avoid a reverse siphon when power is cut off, drill a hole into the return tube (we call this the exhaust) just under the water line (the water line when the return pump is on). A 1/8" hole should be plenty, and just remember to periodically clear any algae build up around the hole. You want this hole just under the water line because when power is shut off, it will immediately begin to suck air and break the siphon, and when the system is running, you won't get a jet of air bubbles into your tank. HTH - Grim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty January 30, 2003 Share January 30, 2003 I've not had a problem with oil slicks. I've got really good water movement and my return and one other powerhead are directly agitating the surface. My return is completely submerged. One other point on the 'exhaust' hole in the return. Make sure you don't put it too far below the surface. In a power outage, the tank will drain into your sump until the siphon breaks. If your sump is too small, or the hole is too far below the surface, your sump will overflow before the siphon breaks. I'll try to get pics of my overflows and return from inside and outside the tank tonight. mc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatortailale January 30, 2003 Share January 30, 2003 IMO with your 58 oceanic, you will have sufficient flow and will not need to drill the back. Those slot on corner box are nice and wide. Just T or Y the return line and have one return line via the corner box and plumb up 2nd line to sea swirl on other side of tank. Install ball valve on each return line and you can adjust flow rate in each one so that you are not returning more than overflow can take (which shouldn't be problem with this tank unless Durso has problems keeping up) At least that is what I would do. I'm still toying with idea of some day splitting off one of my 2 corner return lines and hooking up sea swirl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelg January 30, 2003 Author Share January 30, 2003 Craig- the drilled back is for the acrylic tank that I showed you- Not going to mess with the oceanic, as I really shouldn't need to. Mindy gave the approval- now I can create a seperate habitat for those anenomes. Going to light it with a 55WPC and a 150W HQI. Should be just about right. After measuring it last night, it is a little over 20 gallons. Grimm- is it possible to drill a siphon break in lock-line pipe? Guess it wouldn't be any different than normal PVC. Was thinking about that last night actually. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind January 30, 2003 Share January 30, 2003 My tank is drilled about 6" below the water line and instead of a 90 on the outside I have a tee. The tee has a riser that goes up above the tank water line w/ a cap that is drilled w/ a small hole for air to enter. I have a ball valve at the bottom that I use to keep the drain lines half full of water. After fine tunning the waterfall sound is reduced. I'll post some pics in the gallery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon alley January 30, 2003 Share January 30, 2003 FYI...if you're interested..I've got an internal overflow box of 1/4" black acrylic I made specifically for a back glass drilled tank. Could let you have it cheap if you want it, it's just sitting in my basement. check here: http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21173&highlight= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest reeftanklfs January 31, 2003 Share January 31, 2003 Hi Mike: No, you don't want to drill into the loctite. You drill into the PVC that it connects into. Are you familiar with AGA or Oceanic reef ready tanks and their associated plumbing kits? The kit comes with the overflow and return parts. Part of the return is a loctite assembly, that contains a 90 deg. elbow that makes the loctite come up and over the overflow. The manufact. drill an anti-siphon hole into the elbow, right at the crook, so that the water that comes out, comes out inside the overflow. I don't know what kind of loctite assembly you have, but if the return plumbing isn't going thru the overflow box, then I would drill a hole thru the acrylic top, big enough to allow whatever size PVC you're using for the return. Make the loctite assembly go thru the drilled hole, and drill an anti-siphon hole into the PVC, not the loctite. The hole should be right under the water line. HTH - Grim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelg January 31, 2003 Author Share January 31, 2003 That is exactly they type that came with my tank. I will look at the elbow more closely to see if it already has a siphon break in it. Make sense to put in in the overflow side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Grenier January 31, 2003 Share January 31, 2003 Mike, You talked about a 45 elbo at the sump end. I put 2 45 elbo's (thought 1 90 would restrict too much) and the water rushes across the surfacemaking hardly any noise. I started with it below the surface and it sounded like boiling water and above and strait-down caused too much splashing. Here's how mins is set-up: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelg January 31, 2003 Author Share January 31, 2003 Great schematic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind January 31, 2003 Share January 31, 2003 Larry-Can you post something in the DIY section about your rotators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KABALA February 3, 2003 Share February 3, 2003 As well as Prev, I also have a TEE at the back side of my tank for the air. Same principal they use in home plumbing. Although I found after I cut the ribs from the screen, I didnt need the hole as it whistled and I cloged it with an ear plug!! Only thing I could squeeze in it and it expanded to seal it shut. My return I use a 45 ebnd screwed into front of mag 9.5 to get lower into the sump and then a 1" gate valve screwed into outlet of mag. Stick with the gate as a ball valve will have you cussing when trying to get the water levels constant, as most of them dont turn smoothly. Then I use flexible tubing to back of take leading to a locline Y with 2 extensions. The loclines are actually bending over the edge and sitting on the water surface. This stops it from falling of back of tank So I dont 1) have to drill a hole into return for siphoning. 2) need to drop the return into the tank so I have something to Drill a hole into, as your not suppose to drill the locline. It helps with surface agitation as well, and at about 6ft of head and the mag mayb 60% open its a gently flow out of the returns. I hope to have pics of my tank up soon as I my dig camera died last summer and Im waiting on Walmart to return my pics! Although fishless as of now still looks better than when my power went out!!! Big MIke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty February 3, 2003 Share February 3, 2003 I'm posting pics of my overflows in the gallery for anyone interested. mc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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