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Found 19 results

  1. Does anyone know of, or even familiar with MICMOL lighting? I’ve never even heard of that company. Someone who is upgrading tanks has offered me these MICMOL LED fixtures, which SOUND perfectly fine from descriptions, and I saw pictures of his tank with them on, and they looked fantastic, and are apparently very easy to work with. Previously I would’ve jumped on the offer, but this will be my 4th attempt at LED fixtures, and since most of the ones I’ve gotten were used, I’m a little worried about getting used, even tho the new LEDs I’ve gotten were just as problematic as any used, but what is making me question the most, is that it’s a brand I’ve never even heard of before. This is the first time I’ve heard or seen the name MICMOL. Can anyone give me any Info or personal review of these fixtures?
  2. I got 2 redsea reefLED fixtures, and let me just say...I have never been more upset, frustrated, and infuriated with any piece of equipment EVER!!!! First of all, what kind of nonsense is making it so that the ONLY way to use it is through WiFi and an app?!?! Nothing should EVER not have the ability to be used manually! Other than preference, it’s just plain stupid! WiFi can go out, not be strong enough, or any number of other things, which leave u with either no lighting if u have to just turn it off, or no control over it at all! I can’t get over how idiotic that was to do!!!!!! Mine, with much much much corresponding back and forth with RedSea, are the most unreliable piece of trash ever! At first the new one(I bought a used one and a new one) wouldn’t connect to the app, even tho everything was going exactly according to the instructions, and then it eventually DID, but I then had to hard reset the used one to change the settings, but then THAT one stopped appearing(I’m GREATLY abbreviating things, and leaving issues out), even after hard resetting/deleting and starting over. Once I got the WiFi extended they worked for a day, and I was able to set them up, but then they stopped showing up again, no matter what I did, but the lights were running as I wanted, so whatever, but now I need to reset it to “acclimation” and change other stuff, but now they just plain don’t show up on the app at all, even tho I had to buy, and pay monthly for a WiFi extender, JUST for these. I’m not really asking for suggestions on how to work them, they’re trash and I want nothing to do with them anymore, although if u actually know what’s wrong, I’d like to know, cause RedSea doesn’t even know, cause they can’t help. I’m asking for suggestions on other lighting. I may be done with LEDS. I said I’ll give it one more chance, and this was chance 3, and I’ve never dealt with more trash than LED fixtures In general, but If anyone knows any fixtures that don’t cost a ton, as I’ve now thrown away over a grand, that are basically perfect, that just plain do NOT have any problems, I’d b interested in hearing about them.
  3. I know I may be asking for the world +1, but hey, some people DO win the lottery! If anyone can help me out with suggestions, I would be infinitely grateful!!! I cannot, and absolutely AM not spending a ton more money, but I would need to find a fixture that I can rely upon and trust(that’s gonna be a toughie). I need to find something that just plain does NOT have problems. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas of what , if there is anything, would work for me? I might sound picky, but if youve talked to me before and knew my situation, or saw my previous post about my Red Sea reefLEDs, then u can understand why i might be getting a little on the picky side! I’d really LIKE to have an LED fixture that is as good as people make them sound like they are, and not have to go back to T5s, or halides, but at this point I 100% do not believe that’s gonna happen. I’ve never had a single problem with any lights every, except from getting very old and overused, be it incandescent, fluorescent, PC, halide, or T5, but all 3 LED fixtures I’ve tried.....well, I’m already an idiot for giving them a 3rd chance, let alone even considering a 4th! Fool me once.....how often do people get to “Well, fool me four times....”! Lol *i DID learn ONE lesson, though! I would only be interested in anything that is, or can be manual—where you can set/run/do everything manually o the fixture itself.
  4. Someone recommended I go with a reefLED 50 to flat out replace my current LeD fixture, and they look beautiful, and won’t leave me with either too dim blue, or bright enough ugly yellow/white, and would of course eliminate the need for an additional bright actinic/violet strip(orphek or reefbrite). It’s just a 55gal, so 2 of them would give each one just a 24” wide, upto 21” deep area to Illuminate. This would be my 3rd, and ABSOLUTE last attempt at ever using LEDs again, so I’d want to be completely, totally, incredibly 100% sure that would give my tank the beautiful look I’ve been trying to find since halides and T5s.
  5. I was just recommended that I try an orphek strip instead of a reef brite, because reefbrite is problematic, and orphek is better/looks better in general. I’m hoping to get some input from anyone who has experience with both, or even just experience with orphek, so I can hear how they compare, or just how good orpheks are, in general. Because of the potential reefbrite dangers, and orphek being much less expensive, I’m definitely leaning towards orphek, but I haven’t heard any 1st hand input yet, so if you can help me out, that’d be great! Second hand input is perfectly welcome too! Or third, or...ANY input is welcome!
  6. Hello Reef Buddies, After a 2 year hiatus, I'm thinking about setting up a new and bigger SPS/Fish tank. Unfortunately, I do not have a dedicated room for the tank, however finally I have space for a nice sized display tank. I am looking for some ideas, plans that you would like to share. Since I am starting from scratch this time, I am willing to go slow and do it right! Good to be back!!! I missed my reefing fam.! Matt
  7. my LED fixture overheats and turns off regularly,(even now in the winter when it's cooler all around. I think it shuts off when it hits 120F, until it gets back down to 100F), and probably turns off at LEAST once an hour for 10-20+ minutes at a time in the summer, and I don't even have the LED strength turned up above I believe 60, so I really need a fan beyond the built in crappy ones. Can anyone suggest any good fans that will make a big enough difference to keep it running nonstop? I plan on turning the LEDS all the way upto to 100 soon. I really can't afford super pricey ones, and would really prefer them not to be loud like a room fan.
  8. I'm wondering if I can get any thoughts/reviews about the maxspect razor, and the arctic 247? I was looking up reviews and some were so totally about all the lighting specs and the stuff that goes totally over my head, and also some very vague and differing reviews. Is anyone familiar with them, and can help me out? How do they look(their light in the tanks)? How do corals do? Something I read was that the razor has some kind of lens that focuses the light into spotlight effects, and which give an uneven lighting appearance, and that can be problems for some corals. Most reviews were positive, but I would want to ask follow-up questions about some things mentioned, which i couldnt do.
  9. Bhintz1288

    40 Reef Lights

    36" x 18" hood with x8 e27 light bulb sockets, x2 t5 bulbs, strip of blue LED moonlights.

    © Free Use

  10. After many question threads and inquiries into buying used setups, I decided to start from scratch. SC Aquariums had a great Black Friday sale, so I bought a 50 gallon starphire cube that came with the reef ready tank with all 3 viewing sides of starphire, a "custom" stand, a glass sump (yes, glass! Wish they worked with acrylic too), return, skimmer, and all the plumbing. It's been up and running since December, so I'll post a few replies with the story. I didn't do a great job taking photos along the way, but here it is... Their setup is alright although the return seems to go very slowly. I can't get more than 1 or 2 full turnovers in an hour. Since this was taken, I've replaced all the ceramic with rubble rock and added a bit more rock underneath the filter pads. Eventually, I'm going to replace those filter pads with a sock, but I've gotta decide on a water height and final setup first. I love the tank size, but I'm a bit disappointed in the location of the overflow column. When discussing tank options, many people were opposed to reef ready b/c of the space you lose. I feel like this design loses even more space because the area to the sides of the overflow are really just a space for critters to hang out. Not getting much light or structure there. I bought a bit of rock and sand from someone on WAMAS to get my tank started. I sifted about 7 gallons of sand through a really crappy colander making my arms sore and the house stink, but I got the nice, small sand you see here. Planning ahead for a tiger watchman goby to have nice sifting sand. The next week, I bought an OceanRevive Arctic T-247 LED. I got a sweet deal from a guy out of Baltimore, but here's the Amazon link. Everything is cleared up in there, and the LR I got is just sitting around waiting. And after leaving the tank for a week and a half while I was in Atlanta for Christmas, I came back to some unpleasant growth... I cleaned it up a bit and added some old base rock that I had stored at the parents' house after college. I soaked it and scrubbed it all with a wire brush to prepare for the tank. Rock isn't all I brought home though. I added a VorTech MP10qdw (ready for the expansion to a second one already!), Tunze Osmolator nano, Jager 150w heater, a temp probe, and a few random thermometers around to double check. When conditions were good in there, I got a couple emerald crabs, 2 camel shrimp, and a variety of snails and hermits. A couple weeks later, I picked up the 18 coral frags I got from epleeds' Charity Auction (proceeds went to St. Jude's - more props to him!), and I also added a pair of DaVinci Clowns (grade b) that I got from Monkiboy! Unfortunately, the bioload shocked the system. The clowns picked up something the day after they went in, and the algae is trying to kill me! Good news is that the clowns have been in there for a couple weeks now, they're both eating and swimming merrily, and their infection is finally subsiding. Algae on the other hand is still a pain! I picked off as much as I could, and now I'm considering treating with H2O2 a few rocks at a time during water changes. I've heard good things, and no one has cited any actual negative effects (lots of opinions, but no fact so far as I can tell). Any thoughts?? So, my next steps are to clean up the tank, get my algae under control, and then add an anemone for the clowns, I'm on the search for a vivid bubble tip if anyone has one. I'm really looking for something that electrifies under the LEDs. I know they exist! if you've got one, please PM! Once he's found his happy place, I'll be gluing down the frags. I'm planning to add a small tang and a tiger watchman goby (pair if I get really lucky searching). Does anyone have any recommendations for good tangs? I want something with character and good for my tanks size. I don't want your average tangs: kole, yellow, hippo, etc. I'm leaning toward one of the really Desjardini (sp?) Tangs or maybe a clown. Not tied to either though. I welcome input on the tank, setup, livestock, algae battle, or just general thoughts! Thanks for reading!
  11. I'm thinking of setting up a JBJ rimless 30 cube using the AI Hydra 26 HD. Has anyone tried out the new AI Hyper Drive Hydra 26 or 52? There are some alternatives that may not offer the same functionality, but offer strong lighting. The OceanRevive Arctic-T247 is a good light but may be a bit much. Kessil A160 may be too little control. The Radion XR15w is a good competitor, but at a higher price than the Hydra HD with fewer perks, I'm leaning toward Hydra. I'd of course like to save some money, but wanting a diverse array of corals, an awesome looking tank, cool lighting control and features, and simplicity of operation in general, the AI Hydra seems good. If you recognize my name on here, you'll know I've been jumping all over the place. I almost pulled the trigger on a 60cube, 50 starfire, 24s, and even a 90cube at some point. In the end, I'm looking for a upper sized nano that will let me grow out some nice frags. I'd rather have bigger and better with a sump and all the under-tank support, but since I'm in an apartment and unsure of when we're moving, this seems like a smart temporary fix. Having that in mind, I'd love to hear some "easy-to-relocate" tank ideas to compete with the JBJ cube. I know there are the Innovative Marine tanks out there, but I like the cube shape far better. Plus, this is a cheaper option. Other thoughts? Thanks everyone!
  12. Hey everyone, I had a question for all of you that own Evergrow’s. As the title states, the it2040’s front LCD is bright and the fact that the lights (I own two) are located in my “bedroom” (I rent a studio apt) doesn't help. My question is, has anyone built or modified the LCD to be able to dim or be covered? I think I've become immune to the light bleed since I’ve always had an aquarium in my bedroom but I've noticed that when I have friends or family stay over, they always comment about the how bright it still is even with all the lights off. I’m sure I could slap some black duct tape over it and call it done but I wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. Thanks, Brandon
  13. Hello All! I've been out of the hobby for 2+ years now after a tank meltdown and a move, but I'm ready to get things going again. I was running a BioCube 29 with the CF hood, an overflow to a 10 gallon sump where I had a Coralife 65 Skimmer running. My heater went bizerk and ruined my tank, fish, coral and most coralline algae didn’t make it. I kept the LR in the water and the pumps circulating but the CF ballasts went and there hasn’t been any light on the tank for over a year, however I have some spots of coralline algae showing signs to life somehow. I decided its time that I want to get back into the game and I want to start by rebuilding the hood with LEDs & new fans, eventually expanding by adding a Storm controller or a Bluefish Controller. I'm still well in the planning phase here and all suggestions are welcome and encouraged! Despite reading what feels like countless forum pages on LEDs, I feel like am am still particularly cloudy in that area. Here we go! Fan rebuild: 2x - Fractal Design Silent Series R2 FD-FAN-SSR2-60 60mm Fan - Newegg.com $8.5ea http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352003 1x - AC / DC Adapter Charger Cord 12V 0.5A (500mA) to power the fans $7 - Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3M31914515 My plan is to run them at full speed but I am considering adding in a speed control module. LED Build: 1x- Lumia 5.2 Puck LED - http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-lumia-5-2-70w-full-spectrum-5-channel-cree-led/$99 1x- Meanwell power supply SE-350-48 http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-se-350-48/$50 1x- 6up LDD Board - http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=ldd-6-driver-board$14 3x- LDD-700H http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=meanwell-ldd-h-driver$7ea 3x- LDD-1000H http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=meanwell-ldd-h-driver$7ea 4x- Cree Hyper Violet 430nm to use as moonlights http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/exotic-hyper-violet-led-430nm/$5ea 1x Heat sink http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Heatsink-Cooling-for-8-x-3W-20-x-1W-LED-Light-/221487393871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3391ad6c4f$19 I need the LED gurus to guide me here. Eventually when I add a controller, I'd like to use the puck during the day and the possibly UV turned down as moonlights. Is this possible? I've seen people suggest using UV as moonlights but I haven’t seen a whole lot of feedback. Also will the power supply listed adequately power the LEDs listed above? Again, I am early in the planning and research phases and I need to research a much more about LED, but getting excited to get back into aquarium keeping! Thanks in advance for the guidance. -Devin
  14. I got a IT2040 about 6 months ago and Ive had it over my frag tank with mixed results. At first I kept it at the factory ( I believe ERC settings) and i recently started playign around with the custom menu and trying different power settings. What im looking for is the BEST power setting specifically for an Zoa dominated frag tank, ( a few LPS frags but no SPS). I've learned no setting is perfect for all the different types of Zoas out there, but which one would be the best to accommodate the most? My parameters are where they need to be, all pretty stable, the fixture is 6 inches from the top of the tank, with the frags 6 inches below the rim, I have not been able to use a PAR metter ( waiting on it already). What do you guys suggest? I heard there is a template somewhere on RC for Zoas but I cant find it! Can someone point me if they know where it is? Or any suggestions would be appreciated!
  15. sweet! just got home from picking up my new it2080w's. Also picked up a custom sump which i will be turning into a gravity fed refugium/thingy Guess ill be busy tonight try to shoot some vids and stuff. never did a "unboxing" before.. lol
  16. I like taking pics of my duncan lol... These are all with my Nikon 3200 under my nanobox at about 16k. Can't forget this guy Or this one... And of course, little baby Sunny... New baby ricordia popped out of nowhere on my live rock earlier this summer... One last shot of the duncan
  17. Hey everyone, JUST FINISHED CYCLING! and thought Id join after getting soo much advice from the forum and join the community! New to the forum and fish tanks in general, this being my first actually!. Found this 240 gallon 3/4 inch glass freshwater tank used on craigslist sitting in a car patio in rough shape for $800 Came with sump, Extra 40 gallon breeder (not used), return pump, skimmer, mag 9, two overflowswhite stand and white tank canopy. Tank was also white trim. With amazing amounts of hard work and help from my local LFS (Quantum Reefs, springfield) my tank is now finally finished cycling. Currently "Reefer Madness 240" has the following specs, Resealed and buffed glass , Rebuilt Stand, Painted everything black 250ibs Fiji LR, 200 ibs Fiji pink LS Apex Controller, Wireless router with ip through dyndns Jabeo 40 powerheads (2) / Kessil 350w LED lights (3) 2 Overflow Boxes with Aqua lifter on full-time syphon 1150 gph Return Pump / mag 9.5 for skimmer Nextreef MR1 Biopellet and Phosphat Media Reactors / 765 gph pump Custom ghetto Refugium till i update my sump. With Miracle Mud 5 stage BRF RO/Di Water System: 2 55 Gallon Drums in Garage with Auto top stop and Shutdown Waste line attached directly to house sump drain outside. 300w heater used powerhead 350 gph pump for ATO Custom ATO line run from garage 60 ft through vent in house to living room. Powered by Apex Remotely. (my proudest tank build moment, not carrying buckets anymore!!!) Ready for clean up crew and fish soon! Your feedback and suggestion are welcome. Thanks for checking it out Facebook gallery https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152088311859166.1073741825.770989165&type=1&l=d7581b9caa
  18. Hello All I currently have an LED fixture that I built like 4 years ago and while it worked very well for my previous tank (10 gallon aquarium) I am not very happy with it over my 22 shallow aquarium. Some of the issues I am currently facing is not enough PAR for SPS corals, no equal spread across & lacking of spectrum that some corals need for growing. Also, my tank is 24"x24" and the layout of these leds is rectangular so 2 sides of the tank get more light than the other. All this said, I am going to be building a new LED fixture with the following LEDS: 08 CREE XT-E Neutral Whites LEDS 16 CREE XT-E Royal Blue LEDS 04 LEDgroupBuy OCW (Ocean Coral White) LEDS 08 LEDgroupBuy Hyper Violet 430nm LEDS I am hoping I can achieve 500 PAR at some area's at least and have an equal spread across all the tank.. I will be installing these leds into a 10"x10" heatsink from heatsinkusa and will group the leds into 4 identical clusters with the purpose of mixing the led colors as good as possible. Also, I will be building a jarduino along the way so that I can control the output % of each led channel separately by hour, this way you can create a sunrise & sunset effects. I might expand this controller leater to add some of the other pre-programmed features such as moonlight (with schedulle by area), temperature sensors, heater control, etc.. I already created a post on how to put together the LDD drivers to power these leds located here. Here is a picture of some of the parts that will be used to put together this project, notice that I am still waiting for some parts such as the Power supply and the TFT monitor for the jarduino. LED Cluster Cluster with 60 degree optics "Arduino" and shield from ebay Thanks for watching and any suggestions or ideas to help me on this project would be appreciated!
  19. hi all, I have 3 Marineland LED Reef capable lights. Don't ask how. But I do not want them in their original cases. I would like to open the cases, take the lights out and rewire to fit a new hood that I am going to build. This is something I have never done. Have no idea if it is doable. Can anyone offer suggestions? Sources for information? I really would like to have this done for Jack's Xmas gift since what do you buy a 12 year old boy? Does anyone in the club want to earn some extra (a little extra) cash to do this for me? Any ideas on the best arrangement of the lights? My tank really does well under these lights. I am happy with them, but I just want to clean up the look. Tank is a 65 gallon with offset overflow. It is 36.4" x 18.4" x 25". Thank you in advance for any suggestions and help. Toni
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