TomBradley412

Try using a strap wrench, the style that you’d use to take on and off an oil filter. I have a few different sizes if you need to borrow one. located in Burke.

Thanks Tom!

They are great, fat and happy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I started this project in November of 2019 so this has been in the works for quite some time now. I have had multiple WAMAS members mention that they would like to see a build thread of my 336g display tank and fish room. This will mostly be just a collection of pictures from along the way of the build. I have more in-depth documentation and details on my Instagram if you are interested but I will also try and answer questions on here as. Feel free to follow along with my future progress on my Instagram: @SemperFiSeaCoral Main Equipment: Display Tank: 336g tank built by Top Shelf Aquatics in Winter Park, FL (96”x30”x27”) 3/4” starphire glass. External overflow with three 1.5” drains and two 1” returns. Stand: powder coated aluminum with marine grade plywood Plumbing: Schedule 80 fittings with blue PVC for main lines and red PVC for emergency overflows Theiling RollerMat Eshopps Axium X-750 protein skimmer Eshopps Titan class Royal sump Two Reeflo Hammerhead return pumps (one on use and one as a plumbed in emergency standby) Pentair Smart UV 80w sterilizer Clear Water CW-300 Algae Turf Scrubber Lighting: 6 AI Hydra 64 HDs 6 AliE 470nm supplemental blue LED bars Flow: 4 Maxspect Gyre XF-350s 4 Ecotech MP-40s Power supply: Two designated 20amp circuits broken into 7 weather proof outlets. Both circuits are tied into my generator transfer switch for emergency back up. Control: GHL Profilux 4 Eventually adding the KH and Ion directors, an additional doing pump for trace elements, and a Maxi dosing pump for auto water changes. CaRx: GEOs Reef CR818 with secondary chamber. Kamoer FX-STP Peristaltic dosing pump If there is something else you want to know feel free to ask. Now onto the pictures... Pictures start at present day and go back so if you want to see them in order start from the bottom up. Tank as it sits right now full and cycling! Water finally making it down to the sump once the tank was full. The first day of filling. Even with my 200gpd RODI it took 2.5 days. Theiling rollermat plumbing and other drains. Red lines are for emergency overflow. Main pump and emergency fail-over on standby. Through the floor and utility closet and into the fish room. Adjustable light supports in. Light mount trimmed with ranch molding. Power distribution and cable management. 80g frag tank (eventually will be tied into the main system). After the fixture was mounted. 3/4” PVC board mounted to the 2x4s Supports for light mount being tied into the floor joists above. Coming through the floor and into the utility closet. Topside of the light, where all the cables and power supplies are hidden on top of the acrylic panels. Black acrylic panels being cut for the light fixture and mounted to the 8020 extruded aluminum. Eshopps Sump and Skimmer, and Theiling RollerMat One of like a million plumbing orders. After supports were in. Plumbing in place, awaiting aluminum supports I made. Drilling through the stand, hardwood floor, and subfloor. Tank spaced away from the wall to allow the overflow box to clear. The morning after I made the 13 hours drive back from Florida. The pink foam was to protect the tank but to also put on the stand. TSA guys getting the tank loaded into the U-Haul BRS 7 Stage RODI with booster pump. Cabinet with DIY concrete counter top for storage and to hide sump pump. Storage More storage. Mapping out cabinet space. Power distribution and cable management. Vinyl waterproof wood look flooring and PVC base board installed and all seams caulked. If the room were to flood all water would go down the floor drain or sump well and cause no damage. Mold resistant PVC ceiling panels and LED lights going in. Planning out the walls for the utility closet and wash tub sink, I also relocated the water heater to the back of the utility closet to better optimize the space. The overhead duct was also relocated to the left side of the room to allow the ceiling to be higher. I am 6’2” and didn’t feel like dealing with a low ceiling. Utility closet wall, door, and wash tub sink installed. The room as it was when I purchased my house in November of 2019. Feel free to follow along with my future progress on my Instagram: @SemperFiSeaCoral Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you don’t mind me asking, how much did that frag tank cost you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing except for the study that was done by by Echotech’s Coral Lab and was found to best produce the most optimized spectrum for coral growth. It is also recommended by Bulk Reef Supply in the video above for all Aqua Ilimination lights that they sell for optimal growth. It works best for me and many others because there was a study done to back it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So that screen shot from my controller above is the exact spectrum that kessil and other lights use that is already preconfigured. It is the most optimized spectrum for growing corals it’s just a matter of setting it yourself from the app versus turning a knob on the kessils. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Baldor pumps 1/8 or 1/16 hp pump should easily handle that. I think John over at Blue Ribbon Koi has a used one sitting on his shelf. I’m pretty sure I saw one there the other day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AI is all I have over all of my systems, I have 2 hydra 52s, 2 hydra 26s, and 3 Primes. They all have virtually the same LED puck it’s just a matter of if they have 1,2, or 4. I absolutely love them. They are easy to control, feature packed, and the App is super easy to use. Also it is one of the only login systems on the market that doesn’t require a separate bridge/controller to make them WiFi enable, it is already built in. So you can adjust the lights from across the room or across the world. They can also be integrated with a DropCam (now called nest cam) so you can visually watch the adjustments you make to your tank as you make them if you aren’t able to be in front of it. If you have anymore questions or wanna see my setup/settings let me know. Also BRS has a video that includes an optimized spectrum for the lights. It looks like the image below. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having the cheato in the back chamber works really well. I don’t even really use my chambers for any filtration apart from the cheato. They just house 2 pumps and some bio balls because I had the room and the bio balls. I threw the cheato in the third chamber with both the canister filter and the gfo/carbon reactor returning into the cheato chamber below the level of the cheato so all of the returned water has to float up and through the cheato before it can overflow back into the tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 14g biocube that has been converted to be rimless and has an AI Prime over it so that puts out like no heat at all. I have one pump running to my GFO/Carbon reactor and another pump as my return pump from my canister filter. It’s been up through two different winters now and I have found that those two pumps running continuously keeps it at exactly 76.2 year round but there have been days or weeks that the weather has gone crazy and it has had a 4 degree +- swing and everything is perfectly fine. Bonus to not having a heater in the back chamber has also allowed room for an internal refugium so I was able to just grab some cheato from one of my larger systems and stuff it in there and the display light is more than enough to light the cheato. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk