lowlizard

3d printer?

you dont have to run 8 bulbs. try 6 for now so you can bring your tank back to it's normal schedule. I'm sure some 1 has used bulbs that their willing to give

you can try weld on #4 it's like a water type to get into the deep part of the crack. then I believe #16 is the thicker version for the bigger gap. still not comfortable with that go over it with silicon

that's what I'm guessing to

I have the same issue but with the phone. I gotta type forum after to get on. www.wamas.org/forums clearing cache worked but had to go under advance setting.

Is it covered where light can't get in. Had the same issue in the 90. I shrunk the 1's I could reach with apitasia x and put the cover over so no light could get in and they where gone. Good luck

Mine is the jebao version also less then 6 months old so can't comment on how long it will last but nice and quite so far. I like how it ramps up and the different speeds you can do with it. have you looked into the new rw series of wave makers from jebao?

This is what I'm using -Dc12000 running on 2 speed. Going to add a reactor to it -Wp40. 1 Koralia3. 1 koralia2. Plan on getting a wp25 and taking out the koralias -vortex 150

I had the same problem when mine went out. I pmed origami and he took care of it. Good luck

I personally would not run it into the dt. 1. your levels are going to change more since your going to be removing/replacing corals. 2. if you come down with any type of bug its in the qt/frag and not in the dt. plus less medication. I cant tell what equipment you have by the pics maybe a list of spares. but i would go bare bottom with a sump for easier cleaning and more room. if that helps.

Puffers ate anything I threw in there or fell in. I had the same problem

I did green spotted puffers. got them at petsmart. started fresh went brackish and eventually turned them into saltwater