Yachaq

Third on the emerald crabs. Two of them completely destroyed the bubble algae in the system while I was getting my parameters back to normal

I have these over my MP40s. They are great and replace the factory cages for the wetside. They do not take any additional space than the original wetsides. Flow seems to be not altered or minimally altered. Once they are dirty, I clean them with a 5% solution of citric acid without any issues.

Welcome!

Interesting. My guess is that rotifers should still work for them though. Probably using one of the smaller species.

Having gone through those ugly phases I can attest they are really a rollercoaster. Had a bad issue of hair algae that took forever to clear, followed by dinos and cyano. It was not pretty, but having the seatbelt on (love the analogy) and going for the ride worked well at the end.

I have no experience with damsel breeding but those definitely look like eggs. Congratulations!!! That probably means that your damsels are well care of and happy. Most likely the eggs will hatch and the fry will be food for other fish in your system. In my case I have clowns laying eggs constantly. Half of the time they hatch while the other half the pincushion or tuxedo urchins discover the "stash" before hatching and help themselves to a hefty amount of caviar. Having said all this, raising the fry was a rewarding experience that required a lot of reading, learning and preparation way before there were eggs in my tank.

I know the feeling. ?

I have it for 3 months now (the Trident, not the bumper) and so far I really like it. I will start allowing apex to control the dosing schedule in a couple of weeks.

Where you able to figure out the cause?

It's looking great! In terms of tests, recommendations are shifting these days, but I found it useful to follow the cycle along with the usual tests (NH3, NO and NO3), specially if doing a fishless cycle. Later on, once I had some corals in, I added Alk, Ca and Mg, which I test regularly to make sure there are no significant shifts (specially in Alk). The Red Sea Foundation kit will get you there in the beginning and you will see if other test kit brands work better for you as you go along. I also test NO3 and PO4 from time to time to make sure values do not bottom out and trigger a dinoflagellate outbreak or go too high. I find myself testing less and less of these last two as the system matures and feeding patterns are settled. It all depends on your specific conditions. With time you create your own routine and determine what feels comfortable for you and your system. Hiding equipment is a little challenging without a separate cabinet but you may get away with putting some of it above the sump as other people do. That may create other problems due to humidity and salt creep on the equipment, but I seen several pictures of people putting equipment there. Maybe others will advise. One recommendation from the pictures is to take the power brick and other electronics from the floor next to the tank just in case there is some water spill. Also, if the outlet you are plugging things in is not a GFCI one, you might want to consider adding an adapter to it. I'm interested to see what your results are with the bacteria-in-a-bottle and ammonium chloride. Did the same for mine using a different brand and it worked great. Keep the posts coming!

Very nice plan. I like the idea of a static splash of colors and the undulating motion of a nem and clowns. Looking forward to more updates.

Welcome to WAMAS!!!

Really impressive. Definitely following along.

Welcome to WAMAS!!! This is a fantastic group of people and will help you along the way. Looking forward to see what you do with your new peninsula.

Hi Matt, They are regular Ocellaris (Amphiprion ocellaris) and where my first try at breeding them with no mortality through the larval stage. I am very tempted to try with different species/color variations in the near future.

I have a clutch of juveniles that have been going strong since they hatched mid November. They are still small (~3/4") so may be a problem if you have other fish that may fight with them. Happy to hold some for you if you are not in a hurry. I would prefer to release them once they are ~1 1/4".

Awesome! Congrats on the decision. I would be interested to see how it develops. Welcome back to the club!!!

I just saw a IM 14 peninsula this morning at reef escape. You could give them a call to see if it is still there.

I have the IM Fusion Nuvo 10g. The tank is good, although the back chambers can be a little tight, specially if you place the light's mounting arm on the back rim. I have a media basket in the sock compartment, a skimmer, the heater and a ato sensor all crammed in there. Comes with its own net cover which is very practical. One of the good thinks about this size is that unless you go with high demand corals, water changes take care of your Ca and Alk when done frequently.

I can measure the compartments in my 10g if you think that helps. Let me know.

Great to see people coming back to the game. I myself lurked in this and other sites for years before pulling the trigger. Now I am happily going down the rabbit hole. I have some thoughts on your questions but others with more experience may also chime in. In general it depends on the state the equipment was left more than the time that has elapsed at least for electronics. Mechanical parts, like power heads and return pumps, may need cleaning with citric acid or vinegar. 1. RODI: I would keep the housing and get new filters. You may want to check if the gaskets are still good. In any case, filters are similar across multiple brands and if the old one doesn't work at all, you may still use them in a new unit. 2. The refractometer should be fine as long as you calibrate it every use. Hanna checkers should also be ok. Replace the reagents if they are expired. You can always test and compare results with another WAMAS member results or the LFS before buying new testing equipment. 3. I would replace all heaters unless new. They are so fundamental in the hobby and can wreak havoc if/when they fail. I usually replace mine on a yearly basis and always have spares just in case. 4. BRS dosing pumps are solid. I would replace the inner tube before reusing. 5. Reef Angel. Sorry. No experience with that one. 6. You could start soaking the rock and eventually cycle it. I would definitely reuse after appropriate management. There are many sources online and here that can guide you on how to do it. 7. I have a AIO IM Fusion 10 that I use for a coral QT. The total "usable" water volume is around 7.5 g. and I honestly think I should have gone bigger for my application. Having said that, it completely depends on what direction do you want to take your hobby. Lots of people with nano experience here and breathtaking nano systems. My $0.07

A source of information that has helped me a lot in the past is this one: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/

Thought about it but that would require pouring cement next to the existing wall/baseboard or leaving a small gap between the two, which may not be ideal. I have been thinking about a wooden platform with leveling feet, an aluminum extrusion stand with leveling feet or building a stand for the space. I have also been looking at CADE aquariums which have aluminum stands with leveling casters and I am waiting for a response from their support team. Pricey though.....

Hi all, My wife and I have been discussing relocating our reefer 350 from the dining room to the basement man cave. For me that means only one thing: Upgrade!!!!! Here is the rub though. The concrete basement floors are a mess. The area were the system will go into has a difference of a little less than 1 5/8" in a 48" span, which may be a significant difference to address with shims. I would like to avoid redoing the basement floors. Any experience out there with something like this?

Thank you!!