mogurnda

I saw that the dimensions were 16X16X2.5, which is definitely substantial. The pump is external, though, so heat is less of a problem. Another problem is the overflow in the 90, which may block the output of the wave2k on one side.

Well, I posted. We'll see. Based on my searches, few people respond to these kinds of questions about wave2k. Lee, I am trying to avoid powerheads for the moment. Both aesthetic and heat considerations.

I'd be happy to do a little writeup, although I'll only really know the system I finally go with. So many posters, so little information. Whether it's live rock or wavemakers, the most rare and useful info is long-term success. Lots of "I bought this last week and it's great."

I feel like my plan changes every few minutes. Good thing I haven't bought anything yet. The wave2k unit looks great, and would eliminate the need for the closed loop. The belt issue worries me a bit. Time to do a little more searching, I guess.

I thought this might be interesting enough to have its own thread. For tubulence in the 90, Michael had suggested a couple of SeaSwirls, which seemed pretty good. Then someone over at Reef Central turned me on to OceansMotions wavemakers as an alternative to SeaSwirls. For less than the price of two SeaSwirls I can get a four way, and for a little more, an 8-way. From what I could find, it's more effort to bolt it down and plumb, and the motor generates heat. Anybody here using one?

I've been using a mag5 for a closed loop on the 20, and it aways leaks a little after cleaning. Salt creep usually plugs it within a few days :D

I had been thinking about using a 1" seaswirl, but your idea of a Y to two 3/4" sounds better. More chance for turbulence. Given how much I am spending, one more seaswirl won't break me. 71] I am thinking of using the mag in the sump, instead of external. Save drilling a hole, and will save a little room in the stand. I'll definitely be installing two 4" fans in the canopy, and it's quite open. Will probably get a little clamp-on fan for the stand. Maybe two. It would be very nice to avoid a chiller. Instead of drilling, can I just use a PVC u-tube as the intake for the closed loop?

Just a little bmp]]

Michael, you say I could use more flow, but it sounds like I should reduce the flow in the sump. What if I just used a mag7 coming out of the sump, and used the Iwaki for a closed loop/SCWD? I'll probably have to move the topoff out of the stand. Maybe put a potted plant on it or something. :p For actinics I'll probably change to T5s. I like the idea of putting the softies in front of the overflow to minimize chemical warfare.

One quick question: why VHO rather than PC? Based on PAR values, it looks like you get twice as much usable light per watt from PC.

Oof! Thanks! Now I need a little time to rethink and absorb!:D

Thanks for all the input! It's drilled and ready for overflows but I had been thinking of having a second closed loop for more circulation. I'm still wondering if I can stick a 29 or a 30 in there. More fuge is better. Also, I have a 55W PC hood that will light the fuge. Maybe a second tank for the fuge will be the answer. You both seem keep on the DIY rock, which sounds interesting. Does it reall take 2-3 months to cure? I'd love to have a look at your tank, Howard. Not sure how soon I'll be able to get out to Vienna, though. And congratulations on you SCUBA certs! It's a great combination, being able to see the reefs in the living room and in the ocean.

Sorry, it's a 20 gallon long.

Hey WAMASers! I still can't believe I won the 90 in the raffle. It will finally push me to have a "real" tank. I'll start with the equipment and the plan, and end with some specific questions. What I'd like is a reef, with some nice SPS, maybe even a few acropora, on one side, soft corals on the other, plus a few clams on the sandbed. The equipment 90 gallon reef ready tank Cabinet stand Canopy, extended 8" for metal halide (have the lamps about 12" from surface) Halides: 2X250 watt Iwasaki, Electronic ballasts (1 icecap, 1 blueline), icecap sockets/reflectors 2X96W PC actinics from AH supply 20 gallon long sump/fuge EuroReef ES5-3 skimmer DIY calcium reactor Return pump? Iwaki 30RLXT Topoff reservoir. I was hoping to do something simple, like a float valve and gravity feed. 3-4" bed of playsand 40 lbs Florida live sand 60 lbs lace rock 120 lbs TBS live rock (80 new plus 40 from 20H) The plan Modify canopy for metal halides: halides 12" from water, PCs 4" from surface, add 2X4" fans Paint canopy and stand to match decor Buy, drill, and partition 20L for sump/fuge Install plumbing Wet test Fill with salt water Get the tank cycled with the sand, lace rock and rotting shrimp, innoculated with sand and rubble from the 20. Add live sand and live rock. Wait a while. Have a blast. This is the perfect time to tell me what looks bad (or good), since I only have the tank, stand and a ballast. I also have a few specific questions. 1. Do I really have enough room for a skimmer and decent fuge in a 20L? 2. With the 20L in the stand (about 45"X16"), any ideas about topoff reservoirs? 3. Is the Iwaki a good choice? It's nominally 960 gph. Is there a more reliable or better pump to use? 4. Where can I get decent base dead rock locally?

Assuming I'm in town, I will be there. I plan to set up a DIY Ca reactor, so I'll either do it at TRT, or on my own. With no experience, my input with regard to design is pretty meaningless. It will be very valuable to know which designs have worked well for people.

Amber, I hadn't noticed that you wanted more than anthelia. You're certainly welcome to whatever monti's you want as well. Lee and Jim, The strombus are yours, and (Lee) I'll see if the worms cooperate saturday morning. Bebedog, I hear limpets are great for aggresive FO tanks. Harder to eat than normal snails. Maybe you can hook up with someone. Come to think of it, I could use a green cap frag if anyone has one lying around.

Garrett, I can certainly use a few ceriths. How's half a dozen strombus?

Amber, you're welcome to as much Anthelia as you can stand Would anybody be interested in little strombus maculatus snails or orange terebellid worms? The snails are easy, and I should be able to pull some terebellids from the sandbed.

I have the usual: chaeto: maybe 2 cups of the stuff anthelia: a lot yellowish branching monti: a few small orange branching monti: one very nice mounted frag, some smaller stuff orange monti cap: several frags My tank is absolutely full, so I can't take trades. They are available for free, or will go to the free table. Unless I win the 90 in the raffle.... :D

It's funny, the thing grew relatively quickly, now seems to be "pruning" itself to stay at its current size. There are a few other colonies in the tank, but I'll stick with the biggest one. 1. About 10 months (Since July, I think) 2. Small (5 cm?), a few branches 3. Mounted, on a tiny chip of LR. 4. 12-15 cm 5. Each branch has dozens of branchlets 6. Hard to say. It seems to go in cycles, dropping 3-4/month, then none. There are some very large nereid worms living in my sandbed, so any branchlets normally disappear overnight. 7. 20 gallon 8. 2X65 PC, actinic and 10000K. It's in the lower third of the tank, below some Xenia. 9. CPR bakpak 10. CPR 12" AquaFuge, with 13 W PC, rapidly growing chaetomorpha, amphipods, mysis, sandbed 11. 2X per day; flake in am, frozen food pm (equivalent of 1/4 cube formula 1). Have been giving DTs 3X week, not for the past month. I don't target feed this coral. 12. Spgr 1.024, pH 8.3-8.4, alk 3.0, Ca 425-450, NO3 ~2, PO4 undetectable 13. IO, just switched to Reef Crystals last change. Change 15-20% every 1-2 weeks. Kalk for all make up in between. Here's a photo from last february. The stalks are quite a bit thicker, and there are more branches now, but the overall size isn't that different.

Thanks Michael! I'll give him a try.

Hello All, I have an odd request. A marine ecologist buddy of mine has asked for a collection of spartina from salt marshes in this area. They are doing a genetic study, so they would prefer plants from non-replanted areas. The problem is that this is not my field, so I am not familiar with the local marshes. I was hoping that somebody who frequents the board would know enough about the local salt marshes to help select a location, and maybe even help with collection. Compensation would be in the form of food, beverages and eternal gratitude. Plus, as a bonus, a few hours wading in the muck. So post here, PM me, or email at sandstrd@mail.nih.gov if you can share a clue. Thanks a bunch!

I found this link very useful for finding a source of CO2 supplies: Brewers United for Real Potables

Totally. Funny that it seems like you have plenty of batteries until you've been without power for 24 hours.

During Isabel, my corals survived with just a battery air pump for circulation for 3 days. Since then, we got a 5500 watt generator, which means we can run the fridge, some lights and the tanks. We lost power for 8-24 hours three times since we got it (thanks Pepco!), so it has been a good investment.