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SixtyFeetUnder

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Posts posted by SixtyFeetUnder

  1. If so it’s the first time I’ve seen it in 15 years of reefing and my display tank is about to be doomed. I initially thought it was ich but now I’m much more concerned. Any advice?

     

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  2. Off the shelf is either Red Sea or Waterbox for a rimless. But there are tons of manufacturers to order from. I have a 72x30x22 rimless with 3/4” glass from Miracles in glass that was shipped to my house for around $2700.  That was the tank only. If your only looking for 18-24” then I would think your talking $2400 or so. 

    Eric how was I typing a response pointing a finger at you at the same time you were typing


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  3. Waterbox 220.6 is 72”x25”x24”. Comes with stand, sump, and plumbing. Admittedly they’ve been backed up on inventory in that size but claim they are getting stock back in mid February. Check out their website and contact EPLEEDS on here if interested.


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  4. Considering using starboard for a bare bottom set up; for those who have used it how much of a gap did you leave between the edge of the starboard and the glass?

     

    I’ve seen people do it leaving up to an inch gap like a detritus ditch (not my favorite look) to the guys at WWC saying an 1/8” to 1/4” as long as its off the silicone is plenty. Anyone have experience and feedback here? Thanks!

     

     

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  5. The only place I've had damage is directly behind the sump where my skimmer was.  After 8 years the latex paint was bubbling off the drywall in a 1 square foot patch.  I scraped off the old paint, lightly sanded, and repainted.  The drywall underneath was fine.


    That was my exact experience as I responded to Tricia before I read yours. Identical experience over a decade span.


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  6. I think dark colors behind the tank looks awesome!
     
    Something to think about.... I recently watched one of the BRS360 videos where they were talking with one of the founding members of the San Diego reefing club.  He talked about removing a tank that had been up for 10+ years, and the drywall behind it being just ruined.  
     
    I am thinking about putting some paintable removable vinyl wallpaper behind my tank(s) to try to minimize the damage from the evaporating salt water.  I'm also thinking about putting some clear acrylic above my tank on the ceiling for the same reason (I have popcorn ceilings, otherwise I'd just put the wallpaper up there too).  I was looking at some on Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/Livelynine-Removable-Wallpaper-Countertop-Paintable/dp/B07QK61SZG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=removable+wallpaper+paintable&qid=1572021899&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A2400711011&rnid=2400708011&s=hi&sr=1-1) that you can paint as well to match the wall while protecting it at the same time.  


    I think the vinyl wallpaper is a cool idea but in my experience the clear acrylic on the ceiling may be overkill. I had a 75 and sump 3” off the wall in my condo for 10 years and when I sold the condo all the only drywall damage I had was a bit of “puffiness” in the sump area. Sanded, quick patch, painted the wall, good as new after 10 years. I feel like you would need significant splatter to ruin drywall.

    That vinyl wallpaper would look nice and clean super easy; that’s a winner.


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  7. The wall behind my tank is “Gotham Grey” but the back of my glass is painted black anyway. I feel like the tank looks better that way but that’s just my opinion.
     
     
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    You have a picture you can post or send me?


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  8. I’m finishing my basement and planning for a large tank with a white stand. The floors and walls both will have a nuetral tan to light brown feel - until my wife bought a couch and is deciding she wants an accent wall in navy blue that includes behind where the tank will be.

     

    Does anyone have positive or negative experience with a dark color behind their reef? Mine have always been on light walls but I’m guessing with a white stand it may look good. But still not sure... give me your thoughts or experiences!

     

     

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  9. I’ve had this happen with a favia when it got stressed or it ingested something that didn’t sit well. My guess is it will recede over time in short order; don’t manually try to intervene.


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  10. I was going to set one up on my 300 gallon system. It’s a dual 57 watt unit (114 total) that I capped off one side to only run one. I could never find a place for it cause it’s kinda large. But if you have space and looking for something cheap, let me know. The only thing you would need are the bulbs and sleeves. I have all the parts to run it as 114 if you want. 

    Sent you a message Eric; thanks.


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  11. Leaning towards one of their larger systems when I finish my basement but really would love to see one running in person to get a feel for the sump, the overflow, the water level (cleaning without splashing water on the floor), keeping you electronics in the stand, etc. See how they feel in person.

     

    I live in Frederick county MD but work in DC so NoVa would also be doable but only in daytime hours. If anyone would be willing to have me come check out their waterbox let me know! Thanks!

     

     

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  12. This was an outstanding answer madweazl; gave me more than I could have hoped for to think on. I am still acclimating them and have them 10” over so I will slowly lower them. After the acclimation period is over.

    What do you run your intensity levels at during your photoperiod? With how detailed your charts on regarding PAR do you have a handy snapshot or chart of your color and intensity settings by hour?


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  13. I’m new to Kessils and coming off old cheap LEDs. The lights put off a spectacular shimmer and I’m quite pleased with the cleaner look and performance so far.

     

    But one complaint is that the spectral x controller gives very minimal instruction. Ok you have a preset and an acclimation setting, yahoo. Is that preset for softies or high or SPS? Zero recommendations on mounting height in reference to tank depth - seems like including a simple chart here would be a good product marketing move.

     

    I have a 75g, 21” deep, mixed reef. Sps up top, LPS and ricordea near the sand bed. The LPS and softies seem very malleable to high or low light. In planning for the sps With these lights I know I need to get a PAR meter (anyone have a cost effective recommendation or used one I’m all ears).

     

    But that all said does anyone have experience with kessils and a recommended intensity set up over a photo period that has worked for them? Thanks for any thoughts.

     

     

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  14. With Red Sea, I’ll be more concerned with the longevity of the stands than the aquariums.  
    I also agree with everyone else about maintenance of non-eurobraced aquariums.  It is extremely easy to splash water out onto the outside of the glass.  I do however have an internal overflow and my water line is about an inch below top of glass so don’t run into issues of salt creep.

    I read that on the 525 and up Red Sea is now using marine plywood instead of pressed wood; do you think in that case the stands will still be an issue? What type of tank are you currently running? I’ve also read good things about Waterbox systems recently but the crowd seems quite split on loving or hating rimless tanks.


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  15. I’m looking at several different rimless systems in the 60” range (red sea reefer 525, SCA 150 etc.) for my next build. One thing I’m paranoid about is long term durability. While love the look of the Red Sea I have serious difficulty believing that five panes of glass at that size (and internal pressure) sealed only with silicon and no bracing system will hold up for 10+ years.

     

    The SCA eurobracing system looks a little more stable. Does anyone have experience with these tanks or other rimless tanks they can share either good or bad feedback? Any thoughts are appreciated.

     

     

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