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Stick heads, I need your help!


YHSublime

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Calling all you SPS lovers. I have placed a significant amount of SPS in my tiny tank over the past 3 weeks. In an effort to clear my frag racks up, I've started moving some of it off the racks and onto the rocks. 

 

What I'm seeing is the pieces that are getting moved to the rocks are bleaching, or significantly fading in color after moving off the racks, and I'm sure this is because they are getting some pretty serious spot on flow. 

 

All the SPS on the racks still is doing great. 

 

Now here is my conundrum: The way the tank is plumbed, there is only one place on the back of the tank (which is a peninsula) that will allow the dry side of an MP10 to fit. As far as flow goes, the zoanthids don't mind, and it seems to be OK in the back end of the tank for SPS. I don't want to junk up the front or sides of such a small tank with a powerhead. I'm not currently running the MP10, as it pushes the sand around too much in the location that it fits (and only fits.) 

 

The return pump in question is a mag5, and is the only thing setup for flow inside the tank.

 

Looking for opinions. Should I dial the pump back with a valve on the return and find some way to get randomized flow with a different style of powerhead (if so, suggestions on powerheads that might work?)

 

Should I sell off the SPS that grows faster and larger, and keep the pieces I really like and place them in the back where they seem to be doing well? 

 

Should I just forget SPS in general because I'm working out of a 22 gallon tank? 

 

Haaaalp!

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Like I said before. You have way way to much SPS for such a small tank. Especially when you combine it with everything else you have. Hahahahha

 

If it were me, I would think long and hard about which pieces you have that you couldn’t live without. Then sell the rest. If you limit yourself to about 5-8 pieces I think they would fare well.

 

But if you want to keep it all, I have an IM SR80 that will house everything and more for sale :)

 

And with that small of a tank I would sell the MP10 and buy the Tunze 6040. It’s super small and has a built in controller that can make waves :)

 

I have a 6055 in a frag tank with the new controller and it’s amazing.

 

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/tunze-turbelle-nanostream-6040-53-1190-gph.html

Edited by epleeds
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So the flow is too much with just the Mag5? What about a deflector?

 

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auqa-gadget-spin-stream-nozzle.html

 

That's not a bad idea, I like it. 

 

Like I said before. You have way way to much SPS for such a small tank. Especially when you combine it with everything else you have. Hahahahha

 

If it were me, I would think long and hard about which pieces you have that you couldn’t live without. Then sell the rest. If you limit yourself to about 5-8 pieces I think they would fare well.

 

But if you want to keep it all, I have an IM SR80 that will house everything and more for sale :)

 

Not unrealistic now, but once, if, anything starts growing, i think you're right. 

 

I think I know what pieces I want. Always hustling, I'd like that tank, but I'm committed to doing one, and doing it excellent. 

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Just a mag 5 on a 36" tank. Im not seeing it being the problem. I would start looking elsewhere. And a mp10 on its lowest setting is barely anything for sps even if they are frags. I put 3/4" frags 12 inches from a mp60 in direct path with zero ill effects. And I do this with alot of frags. Like 20 plus. Never once was it a problem. Im gonna stick to it and say theres an underlying problem

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Just a mag 5 on a 36" tank. Im not seeing it being the problem. I would start looking elsewhere. And a mp10 on its lowest setting is barely anything for sps even if they are frags. I put 3/4" frags 12 inches from a mp60 in direct path with zero ill effects. And I do this with alot of frags. Like 20 plus. Never once was it a problem. Im gonna stick to it and say theres an underlying problem

That doesn't explain how all the SPS on the rack is perfect, but all the frags on the rock (right in front of the return) are having issues. The mag 5 pushes some seriously strong water current with about 2' of headspace. It's enough to push my hand back when I put it in the water, and its constant beating flow, not random pulsing flow like from an MP.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I think it’s the constant stream against the corals that are in the direct path. Personally I would slow down the mag 5 and get the spin stream and the Tunze powerhead and use tune that to give you the flow you need.

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Could you put a "Y" on the return to distribute the flow?

 

I could, but it would still be continuous. The issue is when, if, I dial down flow, the powerhead placement on my back wall can only go in very particular areas due to the plumbing, at least with an MP10.

 

That could be resolved with what I think epleeds was saying, this Tunze powerhead. That leaves me with a wire that I don't particularly care for, but form following function, or function following form?

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Can you install a Y right off the bulkhead to deflect water to the sides of the tank? This would be cheap and help you isolate if that is the problem or not. 

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Can you install a Y right off the bulkhead to deflect water to the sides of the tank? This would be cheap and help you isolate if that is the problem or not. 

 

I could, but wouldn't the flow still be constant even bouncing off the sides, just lessened? 

 

It’s so small you could hide it next to the overflow box.

 

Yeah, unfortunately I've got rocks up against the back, but we will see, it's probably the best route. 

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I could, but wouldn't the flow still be constant even bouncing off the sides, just lessened? 

 

 

Yeah, unfortunately I've got rocks up against the back, but we will see, it's probably the best route. 

It makes a big difference when the flow is indirect; once it hits something it will change the pattern as well. Cheap way to do some troubleshooting. 

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Sps typically don't bleach or loose color from too much direct constant flow. The flesh just peels off where it is being hit to hard with flow. If things are bleaching or loosing color I would look elsewhere. Pictures would help if your still having issues.

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Sps typically don't bleach or loose color from too much direct constant flow. The flesh just peels off where it is being hit to hard with flow. If things are bleaching or loosing color I would look elsewhere. Pictures would help if your still having issues.

 

Good to know. I'll get some pictures when the lights come on. 

 

I'm having a hard time with that though, because the frags that are on the rack are still doing great, and the ones I put onto the rock are just losing a lot of color. They are about the same height as the rack, the only difference in the entire 3 feet would be flow. Anyways, I'll still get some photos up. 

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Whats your alk, how old is the kit

 

Is it closer to other corals that may be attacking at night,

 

What was on your hands when they moved

 

Usually when I had random confined to an area bleaching like that it was because of another coral close by or cause my alk test kit had been off usually high, and if I touched any they bleached

 

Maybe I'm wrong, haven't had a good sps tank in too long

 

Though I'm finally getting my frags to color up

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Couple possibilities I’ll throw out there. Typically a tank has its lowest par on the frag rack. New bulbs? How high is fixture mounted? Also I think I remember seeing a post about an ATO accident. I happen to have had a ton of ATO accidents till I worked out the kinks. the SPS didnt show signs of stress till 2-3 weeks later sometimes. ATO accidents are the worst because all the parameters fluctuate. Maybe it’s just coincidence the frag rack piece are hardier? I know for a fact that healthy SPS love high par but sick ones don’t want to fry. Hope you figure it out good luck!

Edited by gmerek2
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Couple possibilities I’ll throw out there. Typically a tank has its lowest par on the frag rack. New bulbs? How high is fixture mounted? Also I think I remember seeing a post about an ATO accident. I happen to have had a ton of ATO accidents till I worked out the kinks. the SPS didnt show signs of stress till 2-3 weeks later sometimes. ATO accidents are the worst because all the parameters fluctuate. Maybe it’s just coincidence the frag rack piece are hardier? I know for a fact that healthy SPS love high par but sick ones don’t want to fry

The bulbs are new (within 3 months) but I ran them in the fixture and on like a regular day for 2 weeks before the cycle. The frag rack probably gets the most par, my fixture covers every inch of tank, so there's that. Probably 20" off, but I'll measure.

 

I had an ATO accident, yep. The siphon back siphoned into my top off. I caught in within 8 hours, and the salinity didn't change dramatically, I still can't see how it affects just one area?!

 

They are all getting blasted, just the ones on the rock lost color and some started going pale. They are all still together, no skin coming off, some polyp extension. I'll get pictures.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Here are the corals in question:

39753881521_6d4e1a38d1_h.jpg

 

Some shots of what is on the rack. Sorry about the color, but you can see that its there, not like the rock:

39753883281_66b0ea37e9_h.jpg

 

Here is my Walt Disney. Super small, still green, polyps out, loving life on the rack:

24846501767_c99ba0a07a_h.jpg

 

Another rack shot:

38744045475_10c24bb371_h.jpg

 

Look at the rack in the back, old photo, but it still looks that color:

27733023449_cebbcc874e_h.jpg

 

Quick FTS the other day:

39428107102_df03c28e91_h.jpg

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Whats your alk, how old is the kit

 

Is it closer to other corals that may be attacking at night,

 

What was on your hands when they moved

 

Usually when I had random confined to an area bleaching like that it was because of another coral close by or cause my alk test kit had been off usually high, and if I touched any they bleached

 

Maybe I'm wrong, haven't had a good sps tank in too long

 

Though I'm finally getting my frags to color up

 

You're not wrong, and your asking the right questions, I'm however going to get immediately scoffed at, bc I'm not testing. Not yet. What I am doing is routine, and a 5 gallon water change a week. Nothing should be fluxing outside of that. The question still begs, how is it different less than a foot over, even 8" more likely? 

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When my alk was off the sps seemed to be very sensitive to any touching of the tank, once I left alone stayed fine. Ones I touched or cleaned the plugs off of sometimes even died....never got a handle on why but seemed to stop happening once I got my alk corrected...

 

But I did have a while in the 90g where anything within 12 inches of an acan echinata would due randomly working a few weeks...ended up being warfare....moved to frag tank and that's when I noticed it eating a few close by corals at night.....warfare seems to go farther than I ever thought it could.

 

Take it all with a grain, we are talking almost 7 years ago now....man I miss the sticks

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When my alk was off the sps seemed to be very sensitive to any touching of the tank, once I left alone stayed fine. Ones I touched or cleaned the plugs off of sometimes even died....never got a handle on why but seemed to stop happening once I got my alk corrected...

 

But I did have a while in the 90g where anything within 12 inches of an acan echinata would due randomly working a few weeks...ended up being warfare....moved to frag tank and that's when I noticed it eating a few close by corals at night.....warfare seems to go farther than I ever thought it could.

 

Take it all with a grain, we are talking almost 7 years ago now....man I miss the sticks

 

Don't miss them too much. There is nothing around them, besides each other. Duncans in the proximity, but it's a rock on a rock. Zoanthids. 

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For those of you wondering the corals in question on the rock: Purple Slimer, Green Slimer, Forrest Fire Digita, and I think some reef gen frag. 

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