mari.harutunian June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 I've been plagued by this algae since I started 7 months ago. It's a film that is easily blown off the rocks. Even when Nitrate is zero it is still there. I had dosed NOPOX for a month and it's still there. As far as i can tell with my test kit, phosphate does not register but it's a nutrafin kit. I turned my lights off for 4 days and it diminished but then came right back. I have regularly siphoned the stuff off the rocks and when I'm done I have a ball of goo. Anyone know what this is and what I should do?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 Hmm. Looks like green cyanobacteria slime to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpassar12 June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 Ditto on green cyano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 7, 2017 Author Share June 7, 2017 Any idea on how to combat it? I have had red cyano but all of it went away with NOPOX dosing, Siphon, and water changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khh27 June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 More Flow in the area? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 does look like green cyano. Test for phosphates and report back please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 There are lots of ways to *try* to combat cyano that have been documented. Some try chemicals like chemiclean or red slime remover. Siphoning it out over an over until it doesn't come back is another option. Using macroalgae to compete with it is another option. Carbon dosing. Hydrogen peroxide dosing. Sometimes GAC (activated carbon) can help if it's being fueled by dissolved organics that aren't easily removed by your skimmer. Phosphate removers. So many ways - because it drives people nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 7, 2017 Author Share June 7, 2017 does look like green cyano. Test for phosphates and report back please!Any reliable brands that you'd recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 7, 2017 Author Share June 7, 2017 More Flow in the area? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Some of it is in direct flow but also somehow is easily removed when using a turkey baster.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 7, 2017 Author Share June 7, 2017 There are lots of ways to *try* to combat cyano that have been documented. Some try chemicals like chemiclean or red slime remover. Siphoning it out over an over until it doesn't come back is another option. Using macroalgae to compete with it is another option. Carbon dosing. Hydrogen peroxide dosing. Sometimes GAC (activated carbon) can help if it's being fueled by dissolved organics that aren't easily removed by your skimmer. Phosphate removers. So many ways - because it drives people nuts. I have tried chemipure, GFO, NOPOX, hydrogen peroxide dosing but a chalice started to die so I stopped, and then as I said before turning the lights out. Just bought some mermaids fan so maybe that'll help. I've had dragons breath the entire time but I gave a lot away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malacoda June 7, 2017 Share June 7, 2017 (edited) I fought for green cyano several months. Increasing flow didn't help (some of the thickest mats were in high flow areas. 20% weekly water changes weren't barely held it at bay. H2O2 dosing didn't affect it at all. And several weeks after I had gotten my PO4 down below 0.02 and my NO3 down below 2 ppm it was still holding its ground. Then I decided to try diversifying my bacteria population a little more so I began doing maintenance doses of Seachem's 'Pristine'. I honestly can't say if the Pristine was actually diversifying or 'balancing out' my bacteria in anyway versus what was already in my tank ... or that it wasn't merely due to my nutrients remaining low for several weeks and finally starving the green cyano out ... but within about 3 weeks of starting the Pristine additions, it had pretty much faded away to nothing. Edited June 7, 2017 by malacoda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 8, 2017 Author Share June 8, 2017 I fought for green cyano several months. Increasing flow didn't help (some of the thickest mats were in high flow areas. 20% weekly water changes weren't barely held it at bay. H2O2 dosing didn't affect it at all. And several weeks after I had gotten my PO4 down below 0.02 and my NO3 down below 2 ppm it was still holding its ground. Then I decided to try diversifying my bacteria population a little more so I began doing maintenance doses of Seachem's 'Pristine'. I honestly can't say if the Pristine was actually diversifying or 'balancing out' my bacteria in anyway versus what was already in my tank ... or that it wasn't merely due to my nutrients remaining low for several weeks and finally starving the green cyano out ... but within about 3 weeks of starting the Pristine additions, it had pretty much faded away to nothing. Thank you so much for your input! Maybe I'll try pristine too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harticus5 June 8, 2017 Share June 8, 2017 I use chemiclean for red cyno usually 1 time with every new tank at some point....mind blowing how well and quickly it works....not sure how it works with regards green cyno. Chemiclean and water changes I bet will solve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmerek2 June 9, 2017 Share June 9, 2017 The best way to combat it is to grow a huge mat of zoas or GSP overtop of the rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b June 11, 2017 Share June 11, 2017 Get a 'trates test at your LFS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 12, 2017 Author Share June 12, 2017 Get a 'trates test at your LFSThey would just use an API test kit like I do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b June 12, 2017 Share June 12, 2017 They would just use an API test kit like I do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Probably not. All the LFSs I've seen use a digital tester which are much more accurate than api. Something like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 12, 2017 Author Share June 12, 2017 Probably not. All the LFSs I've seen use a digital tester which are much more accurate than api. Something like this: The one i go to isn't only saltwater and the next one is 45 min away. How much does it cost to get this done? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b June 14, 2017 Share June 14, 2017 (edited) I seem to recall the LFS phosphate test was a few bucks. ($6?) I've seen a strong relationship between that kind of algae and phosphates. That's why I ask. What does your API phosphate test say? Edited June 14, 2017 by sen5241b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 14, 2017 Author Share June 14, 2017 I seem to recall the LFS phosphate test was a few bucks. ($6?) I've seen a strong relationship between that kind of algae and phosphates. That's why I ask. What does your API phosphate test say? I'll definitely try it if my local LFS offers or I swing by the other one anytime soon. But I've run GFO before and I'm currently running chemipure elite. Both did nothing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham June 16, 2017 Share June 16, 2017 Another recommendation for ChemiClean. Worked perfectly and had zero side effects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 16, 2017 Author Share June 16, 2017 I read somewhere that old t5 lights could cause an outbreak of this. I have old LEDs that are like 3 years old. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon June 16, 2017 Share June 16, 2017 I read somewhere that old t5 lights could cause an outbreak of this. I have old LEDs that are like 3 years old. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk LED's won't color shift like floressents do. T5's start to shift their color and par as they get ran longer. Maybe add another power head to your tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 16, 2017 Author Share June 16, 2017 LED's won't color shift like floressents do. T5's start to shift their color and par as they get ran longer. Maybe add another power head to your tank? I have two wavemaker powerheads that are overrated for my tank but I also have two seahorses so they aren't turned up high. Not that I think it would make a huge difference. The algae grows anywhere there is light regardless of flow- even in direct flow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mari.harutunian June 16, 2017 Author Share June 16, 2017 Does anyone think NOPOX shouldn't be used? I was thinking of doing a large water change/siphon, 2ml NOPOX dosing, and a week of lights out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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