TDS readings

[aquamom]

This probably is a rather dumb question but about 2 1/2 months ago I ordered a Spectrapure 90 gallon per day unit. It didn't come with the inline meter so I waited a little while (as in last week) to order a handheld. So out of the tap it's reading around 170. Out of the unit it's around 24. So my question is if at this point changing just the sediment and carbon filters alone will lower that or am I looking at changing the membrane and everything? It seems weird that it went that fast. My PSI has been running 35-40 which I guess is fairly low. Any input is appreciated!

 

 

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[davjbeas]

Does the unit have De-ionization filter stage?

[aquamom]

Yes it does

 

 

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[WheresTheReef]

How long are you running the water before measuring? TDS can start off higher and then come down after running for several minutes. Let it produce water over 5-10 mins and see if it goes down. Measure it in a separate container (cup) so you're not reading TDS from previous water. The RO filter should bring it down 95-98%. That's why it's good to run a DI filter to get the remaining TDS. That pressure is very low. How is it plumbed in? The house pressure should be higher in most cases. If not then consider a booster pump.

[aquamom]

 

 

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[aquamom]

This is the unit. I was running it for at least 5 minutes. Maybe I can try running it longer to see if that was the problem. It is in the laundry area tied in through the washing machine hook up

 

 

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[aquamom]

I just let it run for 10 minutes and it was around 30

 

 

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[YHSublime]

What's your location? You shouldn't have to change anything if it's all fresh. My membrane is 2 years old and should be changed, carbon is a year +. I get 4-5 tds in fairfax and Arlington.

 

 

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[YHSublime]

Run 5 gallons through, then test again.

 

 

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[WheresTheReef]

Why is the pressure so low? Is there a water valve that is partially closed?

[aquamom]

I'm all the way over in Easton, MD. I'll try running it longer. Idk why the pressure is so low. I've tried it in different locations with pretty much the same pressure. Thanks guys for the help

 

 

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[aquamom]

But going back to my first question, if running it longer doesn't resolve it will I need to replace all of them? Thx again!

 

 

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[WheresTheReef]

But going back to my first question, if running it longer doesn't resolve it will I need to replace all of them? Thx again!

 

 

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This BRS video might be useful to you in determining when to change filters.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/howto-know-when-to-change-your-rodi-filters/

[aquamom]

I'll check it out! Thx!

 

 

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[WheresTheReef]

If your home water pressure isn't low then something is wrong. Either with the line or clogged filter(s). You can check the input line pressure and pressure after 3 filters, but before RO filter to see if the sediment and carbon filters are restricting the pressure. You want the water pressure higher to improve the performance of the filter. It might take replacing the filters, but if it were me I would want to ensure everything is working as it should.

[aquamom]

Ok yeah would be better to know. Can I use the same pressure gauge it comes with yo check that?

 

 

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[aquamom]

If your home water pressure isn't low then something is wrong. Either with the line or clogged filter(s). You can check the input line pressure and pressure after 3 filters, but before RO filter to see if the sediment and carbon filters are restricting the pressure. You want the water pressure higher to improve the performance of the filter. It might take replacing the filters, but if it were me I would want to ensure everything is working as it should.

 

Thinking about it though, that is pretty much the same psi I have gotten since I bought it and initially set it up.

 

 

 

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[Marc Weaver]

I think you may be in need of a booster pump.  Your low pressure at the unit may be causing the membrane to have a low rejection rate and burn through your DI resin quickly.  I know after I installed one on my unit I went from a few months to at least 6 months before having to replace resin, and I make 50 gallons a week.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-aquatec-8800-booster-pump-kit.html

 

Expensive, but well worth the cost.  You will make RO/DI water much faster and your resin will last much longer before needing replacement.

 

Is your sediment filter (on the left) red from excessive iron?  That's a lot of iron for <3 months of filtration.

 

 

[AlanM]

Are you sure the stages are all in the right order and the media is installed correctly? I have never set up a spectrapure, but you shouldn't be getting that Tds out of the DI stage.

[aquamom]

 

 

Found the towns water report. I am not sure if that is iron so I looked up the report. Also, I'm pretty sure it's in the right order. Man, I wonder if there are any decent pumps to be found for cheaper. Ugh

 

 

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[Marc Weaver]

Strange.  I just assumed you were on well water with that low of pressure.  But at any rate, I'd bet low pressure is your problem and your DI resin is shot.  I would replace the sediment, carbon block, and DI resin and measure the TDS out of your DI after running it for 5 minutes or so.  It definitely should be zero then.

From the picture, it appears to be connected correctly and I can see the flow restrictor on the wastewater output (the yellow tube insert at the end of the red tube.)  

 

I can't see all of the connections, but your source water (black in your case) appears to be going into the sediment (left) filter, then into the carbon block (center) filter, then into the left side of the membrane.  From the right side of the membrane, your wastewater (red) goes to your drain and your membrane-filtered water should go into your DI cartridge (right) and out the blue hose.

 

Is that what you see looking at the unit?

[aquamom]

Yes, that is how it is set up. Boy, that went fast. But good to know so I can get it taken care of.

 

 

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[aquamom]

Thank you again for your input

 

 

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[YHSublime]

You might need a booster pump.

 

 

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[Origami]

You're DI resin be exhausted. The spectrapure website shows what looks like a color-changing DI resin stage on the far right.

 

I know that you've measured the TDS in and out. Try measuring the TDS of the water coming out of your RO membrane.  That is, the INPUT to the DI resin stage. It's also the "other" output on the right hand side of the RO membrane canister (not the red line but the one we can't see). This will give you an idea of whether or not your RO membrane is shot. It shouldn't be as it should last a few years, but you need to know if it's doing the job before you can blame anything else. Many times, RO membranes should have rejection ratios of 90-99%, depending upon the membrane, temperature, pressure, etc.. That is, the TDS out should be anywhere from 1% to 10% of the TDS in. The numbers that you're giving are pretty bad, actually and, if accurate may indicate a bad membrane.

 

Are you on city (municipal) water or well water? High CO2 in well water can make a big difference in the longevity of DI resin. Municipal water supplies typically don't suffer from this problem. (At least, I had no problems with it in Ashburn where I was last.)