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1 Gal Pico tank


bqq100

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So I've been itching to build another tank, but there isn't much room around the house for another tank so I'm going to take on the challenge of a pico tank with the goal of keeping SPS in it.  

 

I used to dose kalk using a small reservoir with a stir bar in it to periodically mix it.  Once I switched to 2 part I no longer needed it for anything, so I decided to re-purpose it as a pico tank.  I painted a divider and glued it in to hide the pump, heater and float switches etc.  

 

Display portion is 6 5/8 long x 4 15/16 wide x 6 5/8 tall = .93 gallons

Rear chamber is 1 15/16 wide for about .3 gallons

 

Filtering will be some filter floss with some ROX carbon in the DIY pump/filter chamber.  I plan on setting up an Arduino to control the lights, heater, and cheap ebay peristaltic pumps for ATO, WCs, and maybe kalk dosing.  Lighting will either be a PAR38 bulb or a DIY LED fixture using Evergrow replacement LEDs I have laying around.  

 

Shooting for semi automatic water changes every 2 weeks.  Hook up an empty gallon container, and a gallon container of fresh saltwater and the controller will complete it in small increments over 24 hours or so.

 

Hoping to get it wet tomorrow to get the cycle going!

 

Would love to hear input on the aquascaping and any other tips you guys may have for a tank this small!

 

IMG_20141124570.jpg

 

IMG_2014112441205.jpg      IMG_2014112451995.jpg

 

IMG_2014112422413.jpg

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Good:

Cycle is going! 

Decided on a DIY dimmable LED setup using LDD's

Most of the parts are here for the controller/LED build

 

The Bad:

API Test kit isn't reading the ammonia level right after using ammonium chloride to start the cycle.  Red sea test kit is on order.

 

The Ugly:

Standing bare foot on a concrete floor, I put my finger in the water to feel the temp of the water.... ZAP.  New pump is on order.

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what are the floats for in the back of the tank?

The lower one will be for triggering an ATO. The upper one is an emergency water too high switch in case the main float switch gets stuck.
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Wow.  I'd take you up on the offer of advice but I wouldn't even begin to know how to work on a tank of this size.  It seems to be more of an art than a science.  

 

You must be a very experienced reefer to have the confidence to attempt such a small tank without all the safety that comes with larger water volume.

 

Good luck!

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Thanks!  Although I wouldn't say experienced (my coral keeping experience is only about 2 years)... I think it's more that I love a good challenge!

 

Wow.  I'd take you up on the offer of advice but I wouldn't even begin to know how to work on a tank of this size.  It seems to be more of an art than a science.  

 

You must be a very experienced reefer to have the confidence to attempt such a small tank without all the safety that comes with larger water volume.

 

Good luck!

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What is the sensitivity of your ATO? Do you know yet?

 

I ask because I started down the road on a 5.5g project similar to this. I abandoned it because it just took too much DIY time since I wasn't throwing money at it. However, the ATO problem was one I wrestled with because it's hard to control salinity swings in a small water volume; ATO switches work fine for larger systems with smaller return pump compartments, but their sensitivity starts to get iffy as you scale down.

 

For the 5.5g, I started out thinking I would use an internal overflow box just to house the ATO switch and let a micro-jet/pond pump keep the overflow box circulating back into the display. The idea was to maximize the vertical drop in water level for any given total system evaporation - increasing the sensitivity of the ATO switch to total evap and minimizing salinity changes.

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What is the sensitivity of your ATO? Do you know yet?

 

I ask because I started down the road on a 5.5g project similar to this. I abandoned it because it just took too much DIY time since I wasn't throwing money at it. However, the ATO problem was one I wrestled with because it's hard to control salinity swings in a small water volume; ATO switches work fine for larger systems with smaller return pump compartments, but their sensitivity starts to get iffy as you scale down.

 

For the 5.5g, I started out thinking I would use an internal overflow box just to house the ATO switch and let a micro-jet/pond pump keep the overflow box circulating back into the display. The idea was to maximize the vertical drop in water level for any given total system evaporation - increasing the sensitivity of the ATO switch to total evap and minimizing salinity changes.

 

I haven't setup the ATO yet so I don't know the exact sensitivity.  I figure that I should be able to keep the water level within 1/2" at all times.  Based on the size of my return area, that's about a 2.3% swing in water volume.  That should keep the salinity within 1ppt.  I can live with that kind of swing in salinity, hopefully corals can too! ;-)

 

My fingers are crossed that the 1/2" assumption was conservative, but I'll find out once I get it setup.

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Well I finally got the controller build started.  Right now it's setup on a breadboard for testing purposes and to have the ATO portion of it running before we leave town for the holidays.  Right now the controller has 100% ATO functionality and the ability to monitor temperature.  I also added a bluetooth connection so I can monitor the current status of the float switches and temperature with my phone or laptop.  Eventually I want to be able to use it to send commands to change settings (set time, light schedule, etc). 

 

During the initial testing of the controller my stupidity managed to fry 2 Arduino chips.  It's a good thing they only cost around $2 and I bought several spares!

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  • 1 month later...

Been awhile since I've update this....  Cycle is done, rigged up the lights in a temporary fashion a week ago and starting the algae phase.  I need to do a full water change, which I'll probably take care of this weekend.

 

Most of the work over the last few weeks has been on the controller...  Programming is ~90% done, I just need to program the water change module.  I've painted and drilled holes in a project box that will be the case of the controller and I've started mounting and wiring some of the parts.  I've also finished soldering the main arduino circuit board except for 1 capacitor.

 

IMG_201502127162.jpg

 

IMG_2015021256362.jpg   IMG_2015021224806.jpg

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That's some pretty cool stuff. I wish I had the mad skilz to build my own R2 unit like you!

+1

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  • 3 weeks later...

Almost there, finally ready to add a couple of snails and start getting the tank ready for corals.....  

 

I may still slap a fan on the lights.  They are ok running ~50%, but higher than that and I should run a fan.  And I need to start thinking more about the semi-automatic water change module.

 

IMG_201503025815.jpg

 

IMG_2015030252741.jpg IMG_2015030219766.jpg

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Oh and a major issue I ran into.... The MeanWell power supply I'm using in the controller apparently is pretty noisy and screws up the powerline adapter I use to get my Apex onto the network....  Right now I'm running my Apex with no network.  I bought a clip on ferrite core filter which I hope will help, otherwise I will have to switch to a wifi bridge.   :hammer:

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This build is too smart for me. But I'm intrigued by what is happening, and I will be sticking around to pretend to understand!

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This build is too smart for me. But I'm intrigued by what is happening, and I will be sticking around to pretend to understand!

 

Hahaha it's ok, I'm just about done being an electronics super nerd, and time to switch to reef super nerd....  What am I going to stock the tank with?!

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