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Red cyno


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#1 chris1017

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 04:30 PM

I could really need some help here. I have had my 75g w/55g sump up for about 2 years now and can't get rid of this cyno. I bought the tank from a friend who left the hobby because he could not get rid of it either.

I have a light stock (2 occ. clowns, 1 ornate wrasse), I only feed every other day. I run an asm g3 and a phosban reactor. i have a k-4 and k-3 powerhead.I do weekly 5-7 gallon water changes with r/o water. My ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are at 0.

I have tried eveything I could think of but still can't knock off this cyno. I have never allowed it to take the whole tank over but every few days it all over the sand bed and starting to creep onto corals and rock.

Is there something that I am missing, what elese can or should I do to stop this. I don't have any other real trouble with the tank at all except for some bubble algae wich is not really bad. what should I do.


thanks,
chris
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#2 davjbeas

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 04:50 PM

Add refugium with macro algae or cheatomorphe and run GFO (granular ferric oxide) in a fluidized reactor
and make sure there is good flow with no dead spots in the display tank.
Also a high quality skimmer will help also.
Bulbs should not be over 9-12 months old
as last resort you can use ultra life red slime remover. It is reef safe and works but the cyano can come back if the original issue is not corrected.

David

#3 Jon Lazar

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 05:14 PM

Maybe you're providing too much light. How long do you run your lights, and will your corals tolerate a shorter photoperiod? If you don't have sps corals, you can probably cut back on your lights and that will definitely help.

I've used red slime remover, and I'm not a big fan. It's the antibiotic erythromycin, and I don't know what other, possibly beneficial, bacteria it might kill. Plus the cyano may just come back, as stated in the previous post.

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#4 bkl911

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 05:36 PM

I had some cyano a while back, and after numerous water changes, power head maxi-jet mods and new lightbulbs, I could not get rid of the cyano.

So I tried the red slime remover one time and it did remove the cyano. It made my skimmer go absolutely nuts, and now a year later no cyano. Now I have a black hair algae problem I inherited from a live rock purchase.
333g tank. Currently plumbing everything up...hope to see water by the end of Sept.

180g Clarity Plus Acrylic custom plumbed predator tank:
300lbs live rock, some triggers and a snowflake eel.

125g AGA Main display tank
200lbs live rock, bunch of soft corals, couple of tangs

55g African cichlid tank
a couple of cichlids....starting to get big

37g Quarantine-hospital tank
10lbs of live rock.....currently has a niger trigger, a humu humu, a cleaner wrasse, yellow wrasse and a hippo tang....few more weeks and out they go to their respective homes.

(Will update later...what's in all of these tanks...updated some...will continue to update)

#5 DDiver

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 06:59 PM

Check your TDS...chemiclean and the other products definitely works with no Ill effects on corals but if you don't fix the root of the problem it will come back..FYI oversized skimmers can all so be the problem(high ORP)...


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#6 chucelli

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 07:46 PM

Try out Brightwell's MB7 for a few weeks. The bacteria strains will out compete the cyano for nutrients. Seems to have worked for me. I think I did not have enough different bacterial strains due to dosing vodka for so long. This seemed to have fixed it. I don't have any scientific evidence however..

You can read more about my tank here.


#7 chris1017

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 03:26 AM

I would like to find a way to solve this without chemicals.

dav- I have done all the things you have listed and it just keeps comming back

jon- i currently run a 6 bulb nova pro but running for 12 hours but it is new and up until
this week only 2 bulbs were running for most of the time. the light i had been running
was a 4 bulb nova. i had this issue even when i changed out the stock bulbs for ati bulbs.
I have tried limiting the light but as i have heard and seen is cyno is not as light
dependent like algae are. but I have tried days of lights out with little results.


bkl- i have used red slime remover a few times when i first got the tank becaue
it covered the whole tank when i got it from my friend. It still keeps comming
back.

diver- skimmer is good size for tank. tds is fine though there was no difference it
it's out break with r/o or with tap, which i swithced to afeter no effect. though i have
started using r/o again.


chucelli- though i have not dosed vodka, i may give the bacteria a shot. is it
easy to find?


thanks for all the replies.
chris
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#8 Coral Hind

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 05:45 AM

You mentioned you got this tank from a friend. Is this the same sand bed or did you start a new one? How old is the sand bed?
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#9 lanman

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 08:35 AM

My 240G has been up for almost 2 years - and there are places where I always have cyano - but not on the sand bed at all. My 33G frag tank has been up even longer - and I get cyano across the sand bed in one area - despite putting a separate powerhead in there just to point at that area. Any more water movement and the sand would all move to the other end of the tank.

I heard a 'very good result' from using slime remover yesterday. One dose, and it was gone for years. I'm tempted.

bob
17 Dec 2006: Started hobby with 24-gallon Aquapod with HQI light. 35 lbs. live rock.
March 2007: Added 45-gallon reef w/T5's. U-tube overflow.
April 2007: Separate 33-gallon frag system with 20-gallon sump/refugium, hob skimmer.
May 2007: Hated the U-tube and the 12x36 shape of the 45; moved everything into a 58-gallon 18x36 reef-ready tank. GSA skimmer. Kalk reactor. Media reactor.
10 Dec 2007: Put rocks and first corals in a new 240-gallon tank. Custom 3'x5', Calfo overflow. 10 60" 80W T5 lights, GSA skimmer, kalk stirrer. Added GSA CA reactor April 2008. Added media reactor. Added refugium. Added Remote Deep Sand Bed.
May 2009: Added 40-gallon frag tank to the 33-gallon frag system. More T5's.
July 2009: Swapped out the 58-gallon tank for a 50-gallon 'stock tank'.
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#10 chris1017

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 08:38 AM

i changed the sand bed when I got it. it is about 2 years old now.

i have tried blasting the sand so hard that it blows all the sand off
the front of the tank but it did not seem to make a difference.


chris
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#11 chucelli

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 08:57 AM

MicroBacter7 is not hard to find. You should be able to find it at any LFS which carries Brightwell products. It introduces "beneficial" bacterium strains to your aquarium.
Follow the directions for "high nutrient dosage" on the bottle and you should start to see a change within 2-3 weeks.
It's not a quick fix, but quick fixes are seldom good.

Edited by chucelli, 11 September 2009 - 08:57 AM.

You can read more about my tank here.


#12 John

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 09:52 AM

Why not try Chemipure Elite?

#13 treesprite

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 03:07 PM

If you go with adding the bacteria, don't try then also using a remover because it may just neutralize that added bacteria. I would try to not use a chemical remover because they can cause undesirable after-effects.
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#14 chris1017

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 04:23 PM

I am with you forrest, I try not to add any chemicals if I don't have to.

this is just driving me crazy. I would like to get deeper into coral husbandry
but find it hard to get past sofites when I feel the tank is unstable. I would
really like to get a few lps in there and mabey a few lps frags. Patience is key though.
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#15 bkl911

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 05:54 PM

I completely agree about not using chemicals too, but I had got too frustrated back then about my cyano problem. I think something was leaching from my live rock that was causing the red slime to appear in spots, so I tried the red slime remover one time. The skimmer had to be dumped a few times and the skimmate was a pinkish color. It has been over a year and I had no problems since.
333g tank. Currently plumbing everything up...hope to see water by the end of Sept.

180g Clarity Plus Acrylic custom plumbed predator tank:
300lbs live rock, some triggers and a snowflake eel.

125g AGA Main display tank
200lbs live rock, bunch of soft corals, couple of tangs

55g African cichlid tank
a couple of cichlids....starting to get big

37g Quarantine-hospital tank
10lbs of live rock.....currently has a niger trigger, a humu humu, a cleaner wrasse, yellow wrasse and a hippo tang....few more weeks and out they go to their respective homes.

(Will update later...what's in all of these tanks...updated some...will continue to update)


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